AZ-240z

Arne, Carl. Thanks for the responses. That confirms what I had thought, but had no evidence to back it up. My pursuit of perfection has also led me on a quest to find a pair of U shaped battery cable minder clips whose sole purpose is to hold the pos and neg cables together. I think they are black plastic covered (dipped) metal. Anybody have these on there car or know where I might pick up a couple? I probably should have started a new thread, but the discussion of restoration projects and parts seemed to compliment one another. Dan

Carl, I noticed in the eleventh picture in the sales ad you referenced, above, that the four machine screws that are used to attach the rear deck lid to the deck lid hinges are unpainted. I believe that this is correct, but anyone know for sure if they were unpainted or painted body color? Thanks for sharing this with us, Carl. This may seem trivial, but important possibly to the restorer. Dan

Thanks, E. Thats the confirmation I was looking for. I have used the hair dryer in the past and I think that will be my appoach. Sorry about the map light reference. Just had a Senior Moment, as I will need to do the same to an early map light surround, ie., the one without the glare shield. I guess the radio faceplate warped from radio generated heat and the tight screws as the plastic doesn't look powdery from UV exposure and is fairly flexible. Dan

Hello E, I have the AM radio and faceplate, but a little different problem. Thought you may have some ideas, or may have included this in the Nissan Sport article. My faceplate is all there, unbroken and uncracked, but it has a significant warpage due probably to heat from the map light and possibly overtightening of the corner mount machine screws. I am thinking of applying heat from a heat gun but am afraid of destroying this nice faceplate by either getting it too hot or possibly causing cracks if the material should shrink from the heat. Any thoughts or previous experiences with this would be greatly appreciated. Dan

Bob, Well, you've finally gone and done it. Now, what do you do? Your car was fantastic in 2004, and I can only imagine how you have tweeked it to pure perfection. Well done, Bob, now lets see some pictures, and I mean close up shots of all the goodies, including the carpet. It doesn't get any better than adding a "Gold Medallion" to the pedigree of ones car. Congratulations. Dan

Since this is kind of a brainstorming session, and not to discount the license plate frame idea, here is another thought on a similar idea to distinguish our club association. One of the classic things found on autos of historic importance are very nice metal cloisonne badges usually denoting the car's country of origin, or manufacture company logo, or, perhaps a "CLUB ASSOCIATION LOGO". These badges usually are made so as to be easily attached to some desired part of the car such as front grill, front or rear bumper, or even a license plate frame. My reasoning in part is that I don't think one could do justice to a proper club logo on the limited space of a license plate frame as noted in the reasons given by Arne, for one. A badge, on the other hand, could be created with our club logo and name made of a high quality painted metal casting which could be prominently displayed on our cars. Just an idea that popped into my head if anyone has any thoughts on this for further consideration. Dan

Arne, I Had an original BRE front spook on my 240z many years ago, bolted to the front valances with the included hardware. I never drove the car above highway speeds, and when the spoiler was eventually removed, there was considerable distortion of the valance panel metal at the mounting points. There are substantial air loads pulling on these panels which was somewhat unexpected on my part. I would consider reinforcing strip laid along the inside edge of the valance panels through which to mount the spoiler. This would obviously give added rigidity to the mounting panels on your car and reduce distortion. Just wanted to include my experience, for what its worth. Dan

Steve, Were there any more pages to that ARA manual? I would love to see, or get a copy of your manual if that would be possible. Dan

So, Dave, I am really stupid when it comes to electrics and reading wire diagrams, but it appears that in madkaw's diagram the power source for the compressor is the heater control switch and the toggle switch shown in his diagram could very well be my micro switch which is opened and closed by my vent control slide lever. Does this sound correct to you? I may be getting closer to my answers. Dan

My dealer installed York system by FrigiKing is also installed on the driver side above the smog pump. As a point of interest, the A/C compressor could be activated by the top heater control lever by being placed from "Vent" to "Off". This was accomplished by a micro switch being activated at the end of this cable under the passenger side when the vent door is closed. As long as the A/C thermostat control rotary switch was out of the off position, the A/C could be turned on and off by sliding the top vent control to "OFF" or "Vent". Since my car was restored, and this was never reconnected, I have been search for the dealer wiring diagram for this install so I can reconnect this micro switch correctly, again. If anyone has this diagram or knowledge as to how to correctly hook up this micro switch, It would be a big help to me and may assist Dave with his install. Thanks. Dan

John, Is this shroud the fiberglass shroud? The reason I ask is I installed one on my 240Z which has a plastic fan and I found a problem that might be wise to be aware of. I don't mean to be an alarmist, but I found out that at highway speeds the air load on the shroud is sufficient to caused it to flex enough to make contact with the plastic fan blades at the top of the shroud. When you complete your install, I would recommend that you check for any flex of the shroud and adequate clearance between the top inside of the shroud and the fan blades. I haven't heard of this problem from anyone else so it may have just been an anomaly with my install. I wouldn't feel right though if I didn't mention my experience with this. I am sure your install will work perfectly. Dan

Steve, Sorry for the misinformation above. After reading the entire auction, this person says he no longer has butterscotch. Dan

Hey Steve, I was looking through ebay today and came across someone who apparently is retailing new seatcovers he is making. Take a look at ebay item #110160688651. He says he has all of the colors. Dan

[quote name= So does anyone have some old URL's or Item Numbers from e-bay that would apply here? Series I cars in #3 or #2 Condition? that sold for something above $14K even? I know many have' date=' but I didn't keep the old listings... remember a #3 car "looks like new" to the average person looking at it... and a #2 car is a real show winner... FWIW, Carl B. Carl, I saved an ebay auction for item # 320112203242. This was for a white Z owned and being sold by a car dealership owner. The car had a $26,000 bid which did not reach the reserve. This may help in aguing value with the insurance. Hope so. Dan

Chris, I had pretty well decided to install these cups for the dogleg panels. My reasoning is that these cups may allow the clips to slide out more easily and, thereby, reduce damage to these panels when removing them. They are fairly fragile, and I have seen many with cracked backer boards,. ie. masonite, where the clips fasten to the backer board. Functionality takes priority over originality for me in this case, and, as you say, who will ever know. How Cool, (Sweet for contemporary slang) would it be to peak under new loop pile, surge bound carpet, and find that original natural fiber jute padding; messy, but original. I just can't get that vision out of my mind. If anyone has any NOS or real nice jute pieces, ------------yeah, right. There has to be a supplier out there in the restoration world, somewhere. Dan

Bruce, Jim Thanks for confirming why my car didn't have the plastic retainer caps, too. I did notice that the clips for the dog leg panels were slightly narrower and shaped a little differently than the door panel clips. Now, if I could only find out where Kats gets his undercarpet jute----------hmmmmmmmmm??????? Dan

I removed those interior dog leg trim panels with the chrome accent strip that are found just forward of the rear wheel housings to do some work. They are installed with the same clips which are used for the door trim panels. On the door panels, the receiver holes for these clips use a cap shaped like a thimble with a lip which are pushed into the hole in the metal door frame. My car is a '70 Z, and my question to the forum is, to install these dog leg trim panels, were these thimble shaped caps used, originally, to receive the clip fasteners on the trim panels when installing these dog leg trims? Mine were installed without the use of these caps but it would seem reasonable to me that they would have been originally installed with the same caps as with the door panels. Any thoughts appreciated. Dan

Heck, if you have a two row stock radiator now, I would just shop for a four row radiator and get that OEM thermostat. I believe that would solve your problem. Dan

Randy, Go to www.jrdemers.com and open up," Z-car: Tips and Tricks", then, "Over Heating". I used his method for calibrating my temp gage with a Radio Shack resistor plugged into the lead to the temp sensor, and I use a 180 Nissan thermostat. My gage runs about one needle width right of center on my 1970 Z on 100 degree day in Phoenix. I also have a three row radiator core. I have confirmed my gage readings with the thermometer in the radiator trick and using an infrared thermometer around the engine,and am now happy that my gage readings are pretty accurate. Hope this helps. Dan

Just my opinion, but, yes, I would say thats a little too hot for a 76 degree day. Is the 180 thermostat you put in a Nissan OEM product, or did you get an aftermarket thermostat? The reason I ask is, the opening in a Nissan thermostat is probably 20% bigger than an aftermarket unit and will make a difference. Dan

Just thought that I would bump this to the top one more time. This was mainly a community project which seemed to have a lot of interest, so, for those who expressed an interest and may have missed previous updates, this decal is now complete and available and the results have far surpassed my expectations. If interested drop me a PM. To those who have already purchased one or more, thanks for the support. Dan

I guess I'll chime in with my take on wax. After I had my car restored and painted, I let the new paint cure as, recommended, for about six month. I then decided to use just good old fashioned carnauba wax instead of anything synthetic which may contain a variety of silicones which I definitely wanted to stay away from. I use One Grand wax and only for the use of sealing out airborne impurities. My considerations may differ from yours as my car is not a daily driver, and spends most of its current incarnation in a garage under a car cover. Hope that helps with your decision. Dan

I think that those little rubber tabs that stick out of the side go toward the outer side of the window frame and under the ends of the stainless and rubber window wiper strip that mounts on the top, outer edge of the window ledge. At least, that how mine are mounted which may or may not be correct. It makes me VERY NERVOUS when I appear to be correcting Escanlon. Dan