zKars

A friend pointed out a very nifty electrical accessory he found. It is a battery mounted multi-fuse box with various inputs and outputs.. Seems brilliant given the multiple fused outputs, both low and high current, and compact fit-on-top design. And the price! A hefty £37 British pounds. Shipping for two of them cost me an additional £14 pounds. Pretty cheap. Did not come with any fuses, but they common types. MIDI and MAXI Hang a couple of relays on the side of this thing, and you could have quite the nerve center for any well equipped resto mod Datsun https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1100 This outfit has lots of other interesting electrical bits too. Check it out when you have some browsing time

And masking tape on the roof around the hatch hole where the hatch might touch too. Hood is easy one man, hatch not so much... Take the hatch strut off first. Not that I’ve ever forgotten to....

Best Google found outfit that might make them https://www.henefelt.com/product-page/hex-panel-mounting-nuts/

You're going to make me go measure the threads aren't you? I can't stand not knowing.... All the nuts I've seen have the raised center. M8 x 0.75mm is the thread size.

I have the frost fighter grid on my 510 rear glass. It’s pretty tough yet thin. No problem cleaning it with a rag and invisible glass cleaner so far.

or just https://frostfighter.com/clear-view-defrosters-about.htm or https://frostfighter.com/defroster-repair-grid-kit-2100.htm They have a bunch of cool products

if you need a set of real Z head light buckets let me know!

never seen a z headlight bucket without the aiming adjusters, any year.

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/thread-size~10-24/18-8-stainless-steel-extra-wide-truss-head-phillips-screws-9/ I would have chosen M5 metric but they do not have a black oxide option, just SS silver

For reference, my rivnut upgrade to replace the stock interior rivets used 10-24 threaded rivnets and matching Truss head black anodized philips headed machine screws. Got them from McMaster Carr. Roughly a M5 equivalent size. They have a nice wide head. i'll see if I can find a part number

First make sure your clutch hydraulics are working well and your clutch friction material is still good before you blame the transmission. Just went through this with a friend. 2nd and reverse were hard to get. Trans was just fine when I took it apart. Clutch was worn out as were the hydraulics.

The one I previously offered is tentatively now slated for use on an early 70 project I’m working on this winter. If I can convince the customer to “upgrade” to the later diff position to straighten the axle geometry, then this isolator will become available, but I won’t know that for a few weeks or months. Maybe not much help, but at least there is some hope.

The holes on the Facet pump are 2” apart, and the two bolts that mount it to the frame are 60 mm apart. M6 captured nuts in the frame, M8 bolts to mount the pump to the plate.

My favorite “in between the Nismo and Airtex” price point and functionality is the Facet FEP60SV or 477060E. Same form factor as the Original and Nismo, internal easy to change filter too. The best price is actually from aircraftspruce.com or or .ca Installed several for friends and myself, never had one fail. My two cents for the day

They say don’t covet thy neighbors wife, well I’m coveting thy Z buddy’s paper goodies! Those brochures are the bomb! Nice bit of trading. Now I’m feeling really sad about not being on that little jaunt with the BC gang recently.

found my can of blue. it does not have a mix code. just says "SEM 5312 adjusted" Great.... some base then he fiddled until it matched my sample

I think i had my body shop supply create a custom mix. It looked perfect to the MSA seat covers I bought. I’ll see if I can find a partial can left, it might have the formula. I’m a huge fan of butterscotch interior on dark green cars, but when I did this pure white with blue interior it was love at first sight.

Now clearly I have nothing to say about lifetime of the repair. That will be seen. I have another aluminum rad from my 510 that was damaged by galvanic action. I had the electric fans grounded to the rad body, which I assumed lead to the problem. I think we discussed this before. A small portion of the bottom tank right beside the base of a few fins, like 2 inches long, 1/4 wide now leaks right through the fabric of the aluminum. You could put some water in, pressure it up with air and watch the water seep through the “solid” tank. Pretty cool if it weren’t so sad. Didn’t know how to repair that before, but now I do. Coat it with a thin film of this stuff. As with most things, if you are brave enough to try this, the repair area must be surgically clean before application. Their instructions to lightly sandblast is a great way to accomplish this. At the very least degrease then scrub with a stainless steel brush.

I’ll let the pictures do the talking. Note: The story of how the hole happened is fictitious, but thought representative of the situation. I will never reveal how these holes were created in my customer’s rad.... The one hole is obvious, the one to the left also has a tiny hole in the bend in the tube. Found that during the wet pressure test. Here is the repair all done. Took literally 4 minutes until I was ready to pressure test. And here is the magic product. STIC-TITE hot melt plastic aluminum repair rod.

So you put that big shiny Ebay Aluminum rad in your Z, and you go out to test it on a really hot day. You’ve been having problems keeping the beast cool and you’re sure this massive shiny 3 core magical heat exchanger will solve all your problems. Everything is fine, until a gravel truck in front of you starts spewing loads of nice sharp little rocks at you and your nice new shiny rad. Soon you start smelling the telltale odor of sickly sweet anti freeze and the soon to follow cloud of steam ensues. Oh crap.... You get it home, rip that POS out and put your old brass stocker rad back in until you get this thing fixed. Now who fixes aluminum rads these days? You call around, you find a couple of shops, quotes are in the hundreds of dollars. You remind yourself that you could have soldered up a brass rad yourself for $1.50. Oh crap. Out comes the browsing device and a torrent of googling ensues. You see many links for aluminum brazing rods that make it seem like a child’s game. Heat it up, dab on some the magic alloy and your rad is sealed. You spend $50 bucks, wait a couple of days for it to show, then get to work. You clean, you prep, you heat, you apply, ooooohhh it flows so nice, you let it cool, you Put some water in it and pressurize it, (oh you bought a rad pressure test kit too, another $75) and..... You get squirted in the face with a fine stream of high pressure water from around the lovely dollop of shiny aluminum rod. And two other holes nearby show up too. Try again, clean better, add more heat, more rod, more mess. Guess what happens. Yup, wet shirt this time. Then you go back to google. And you find an innovative product. You buy some it and it works like a charm. You are amazed. It cost $17 CAD. You are happy and fulfilled. I suppose I should share what it is..

Check the tightness of the nuts on the diff studs through the mustache bar as a possible source of drive clunk.

Ah the wonders of Rock Auto. My three GMB fuel pumps came in today already. (ordered Monday, Fed Ex cheap delivery) I am sad to report that the top caps on all three of these were assembled correctly. So what can we learn from this. Is it only Spectra pumps that have these issues? Was the one incorrectly assembled Spectra I encountered a total one off? I sent the customer home this morning with his Spectra working flawlessly and instructions on how to pop the fuse back in the new electric pump circuit when (and if) it fails. It seems we are back to check valve shaming for the time being.

It may very well be that my one example of the cap on 90 degrees out is a total one-off anomaly and the real culprit is the check valves as I initially expected. More evidence to gather for sure. Keep them cards and letters coming.

That’s excellent feedback. Good to know that check valves are a problem too. \Sorry I mistook it for an OEM. I’ve never dug one out of the body. With those stamped in valves, how did you get it stay in after you removed it?

Exedy has yet to disappoint. Definitely my goto.