beandip

one other thing , at least on my car , I am not completely stripping all the origional paint from the engine bay. Some rust repair was done in the battery area and was treated with the por systime . The entire engine bay was mariene cleaned after a sand blast and was also treated with metal ready. POR was applied to any bare metal however the painted surfaces were treated with the chemicals . Now It was recommended that this should be done to the painted surfaces before any por finish was applied. I am now top coating everything with tie-coat primer. in preperation for a complete paint job. The reason given is the mariene clean will leave a residue that the metal ready will nutralise sp the chemical.

they should have them . Check with midwestz first and see how Chloe's prices compair . Check Motorspot as well. I know they are spendy , around $100.00 I need one also but havent priced them yet. Gary

Bill I am doing this vary thing. I have dumped the FI as this F-54 is going in my 240 . I contacted Z therapy and bought a set of SM needles. I think it depends on what you are intending for the car . Street driver , this is what I am after. If for compitition thats another thing and you might look to tripples for top end performance . Gary

According to the tests that were done there was a down force of 95 lbs on the hatch at 100mph and 85 lbs on the front end , not lift. The drag to the rear of the car was calculated to be 240lbs at the rear of the car . by adding a spoiler, the small one that was on the early Zs with the addition of the spook , that it moved the vacume bubble back away from the rear of the car about 4 or 5 ft. if I remember right . I had all this data down loaded but I was recently infected and lost the Hard drive and all the information so I cannot back up this info . With the exception of the figures of the down force on the rear hatch and hood. I will keep researching my books for the info. This was brought up also as a way of helping the smell of fumes entering the rear of the car as a side effect. by the way the front suspension is mcpherison and the rear is chapman.

I installed mine about two years ago and it seems to me that it helped with the lightness feeling in the front end at speed. Later I read that this pan allowed the air flow to smooth out under the engine and did help the air flow through the radiator. But the thing I was more interested in was the reason that it supposedidly helped to eliminate the turbulance and of air building up under this area causing a lifting effect of sorts . Has any one had any indication that this is happining or is it just my imagination. Like when the " ricers" install a 6" exhaust tip and think it makes the car go faster. I sware that I did this installation before I read about it. It was after a speed run on the hiway and was bumped by a quartering gust of wind and the front end felt vary light in the loafers if y ou know what I mean. Now speed for me is a little over 100. Not fast by a lot of you , but plenty fast for me. My pan was painted black . The 240 is a '73 and my friend tried it on his '71 and the bolt holes dident match. :classic:

Also a real good sorce of stright information is to go to the members section and send phred a pvt massage of your question. This is his bag and he does it for a living. And he is a great guy as well. Gary:classic:

According to SCG on page 15 of the Gold Portfolio the forces on the 240 Z at 100mph is 270 lbs of drag including the tires . the LIFT to the body at 100 mph is - 85 lbs on the front and -95 on the rear. Which means positive down force . This is with out any air dam or spoiler. For what it is worth , I have noticed that the front of my '73 feels less light at speed after I added the sheet metal pan that was a factory mounted pannel or farring under the rad and front or the engine. I have read tests since, that have agreed with this , as was reported , helped to eliminate the air from building pressure in this area and helping to draw more of the flow from the engine bay. By helping to eliminate turbulance of the air traveling under the front vallance and crossmember. I have also added rear luvers on the hatch window , but I cannot feel any difference in the handeling in this reguard. :classic: to correct a miss statement the rear suspension is not Mc pherson , but is Chapmen strut type. Mc pherson is on the other end. No flame just information.

Rusted floor and Z cars are vary common together. I had to replace the floorpan on the passanger side and I was able to repair the drivers side. I think part of the trouble was there had been a leak in the heater and water had been allowed to stand in the passenger side foot well. That or a leaking door seal. Either way t he factory supplied jute base for the carpet holds water like a sponge. I bought floor pannels from Zed findings. They are first rate , really. If you want pictures I can send them to ya I just need an e address. I dont know how to shrink them for the gallery. I cut out the rusted sheet metal with a saws-all and removed the seat supports with a spot weld cutter. I was going to be painting the whole car so I stripped out the entire enterior, and sand blasted the floor before the cutting. This is how I really found out how bad the rust was. My friend and I fitted the new pan in the space after the cutting and removing of the bad sheet metal. We held the new floor in place with self tapping sheet metal screws . They ended up being about 4" apart all around the perimeter of the floor. Some minor cuts were made in the new pan to form and fit the space. This was then tig-welded by a welder and the holes filled as the screws were removed. Dont cut any metal away untill you have the replacement in hand so you can see what to leave.

You are all over the place here. You have a bunch of things going on that you are tinkering with so now you cant tell which is doing what. First have you touched the valves to adjust them yet ? If no leave them alone , for now. Check the ignition for timing and advance both vacume and cent. advance. If this is good then go to what ever you are running for carbs and get them right. If you know of a defect in this area fix this first then ballance and adjust for mixture. From here go to the valves and adjust them if needed. Valves out of adjustment will NOT cause what is bothering the running you described . When an engine is running reletively good and all of a sudden turns sour , unless a major thing happened to the valve train like a broken rocker or spring or something like that , valve adjustment is not the cause. First thing , is to check the plugs , and timing . Are you running a dist. with points ? Unless you have been having trouble with the carbs. then go there , do the carbs each have there seperate filters? What is going on in the float chambers, has a float sprung a lead and sunk? What are you running for a fuel pump that you need a pressure regulater ? If only one choke is working , what's up with that ? Hope I have helped. The best to ya. Gary

Sounds like the battery is some what discharged. How far do you generally drive the car when you start her up? I ask how far , because it takes a bit to replace the charge in the battery after start up. If after start up if the lights are turned on and or the heater fan , or any other electrical draw , it will take that much longer to replenish the charge in the batt. . If your regulater is adjustable it could require being set to a higher rate. If you have a charger , charge the batt and then when you start the engine after it is fully charged you should see the lights dim only slightly at idle . How old is the batt. it may be at the end of it's useful life, especially in this cold weather. One more thing check the posts connections on the battery if AT ALL corodded disassemble and clean . This alone could be the cause . Also, clean the top of the batt of any dirt and or oil . It is a good thing to rince the whole batt. and area with soda water solution to remove any acid from the sheet metal on the inner fender and frame rail below the batt. . If rust is noted in the area of the batt it is from the acid . best of luck Gary:classic:

I hope you have a new gasket !

I think you should ! With 2 1/2" pipes , just dont drive anywhere by my house. :sick:

Great that you found a good car , always good to hear of another one on the road . Why are you dumping the radiator it should work just fine if it is in good cond. . Unless you plan on a concors restoration the Griffith is not a distraction to the value of the car. By the way phred has a stock rad for sale , if needed . He races maybe there is a trade here ? Again congrats. .:classic:

I have a question here , I have been reading all the posts on this. What is wrong with electric fuel pumps ? Even the '70z was wired for one. I know OEM pumps are spendy but you can buy a RX-7 pump at a bone yard for $15.00 . Put a switch in the line and you are there . Connect the wires to the rear window defogger switch , almost all of us have cars that they don't work any way. That or mount a switch under the ash tray, there are plenty of places to hide one that is easy to access for daily use. If you want a push button switch to start the car , mount one in the cigar lighter so when you push in the lighter it inturn pushes the button and the engine turns over. You still will need the key switch but it will only activate the ignition and not activate the starter. Removing the rotor or coil wire works but this is not a practical solution for me. Every time I get out of the car to go into the store I don't want to go through the trouble. I am sure we all knew of this option but how many are bothering to do it. Mearly disabeling the power to the ignition is easy to get by . All that is need is 4ft of wire with clips on each end and a screwdriver to short the starter and you are on the way down the road. Just connect a wire to the hot side of a head light and turn it on and bridge the starter and the engine will rum , any 12v source connected to the hot side of the coil . If a manual trans just bump start it. No fuel the engine wont run, simple.

Dont have a clue with the tripples sorry , only SUs . Have you checked the tec. section ?

If you are just playing with it and just want to get it started to hear it run and take it around the block , I can understand the frustration with the weather, and wanting to be driving her. Try giving it a shot of starting fluid in the air cleaner intake. This should get her to start right off, saving the starter and Batt. One reason it may becoming harder to start in this cold , is that if not sufficently warmed up when it is shut down that it may be getting loaded up. If it is repeted a few times .This will eventually foul the plugs. In order for the cold engine to be able to run in the first place it must have a richer mixture of fuel to air. This will leave the cylinder head wet with fuel untill the temp. is up and the engine runs good with out the choke. This might be the culprt.

we have a fantastic supply here in Portland . Parkrose Hardware they have the largest selection of metric that I have ever seen . some chrome plated and stainless. If you let me know what you need specificly by size and lingth and thread pitch I can get them for you if you just pay the cost and shipping. Now as for using the thinner insulater, remember what it is . A insulater If you live in the warmer areas of the country and or are running a header you may find that you will have vapor lock problems especially if you have disconnected the water to the intake manifold. Another sourse of bolts is Highschool Pharmacy they have Ace hardware in part of the store and some of them have a pritty good selection. When I go the Parkrose I always see the cycle guys there buying the chrome cap screws. I used stainless stove bolts on my 240 front bumpers to fill the holes left when I removed the black rubber. I polished them and they look just like chrome bumper bolts . Works for me I really rather not have the rubber .

There is nothing more complicated in the 280 block ! It's the same design . The only differences are in the last 3 or 4 yrs of the inline 6 block . The F-54 block, and this is just the way the casting was done around the cylinders. The difference from the L-24 to the L28 is the crank shaft , the stroke is longer on it and the L-26. Everything will exchange with the 240. Just use your 240 intake and carbs. The cost of rebuild and parts is the same infact if you wanted to buy a remanufactured engine 240 blocks are not acceptable as cores from what I have read. Now some of the 280s have dished pistons and some flat tops so if you are going to use the head from a early 240 check what compression you will end up with, you might be dissapointed or supprised. Check out this web site geocities.com/zgarage.2001 good information there. And yes indeed the 2 + 2 is heaver . When I say all will exchange I mean the outside parts not rods pistons and cranks. Be careful there. Gary