beandip

datto go to the Technical articles and look for SUs adjustment

bambikiller, the only way that the tank will not fill completely is if the car is sitting on a steep incline leaning toward the filler neck and the thinner part of the tank is elevated . The amount of air trapped would only be about 1qu. This is on a 240 tank. I dont have knowledge of the configueration of the 280s . All that is being done here , is the air in the tank that is leaving when filling it with fuel, is being sent to the filler neck to the vent provided insted of the vapor tank. And the vent that runs to the front of the car, driver's side to the valve that is below the ballest resister. That vent line is attached to the fuel tank at the port oppisite the one that vents to the filler neck. This allows air to enter the tank as the fuel is removed. Get me a email address and I will send a diagram . I have a picture of my tank but the diagram that shows all the hoses and are numbered is better . I thought it was posted in this thread above. Gary I tried to send you an email but couldent:classic:

one minor thing not mentioned remove to spark plugs when spinning the engine to get the oil up and running then stick them in and start her up WITH THE VALVE COVER ON .

san-maru, I dont know what you are thinking ? the FI if in good order will supply your nearly stock 280 engine with out a problem. A pair of SUs will as well. As was stated , if you want to just get in the car turn the key at 10degs. or 110degs at sea level or at 9000ft elevation and you have the equipment and or knowledge to keep the electronics in order . The FI with out a doubt is a no brainer. Incicently you will need to change the fuel tank if you do with the injection. All this being said. I personally am running SUs .I am in the process of installing a '' warmed over '' engine . Head work , cam , ignition and headers with 2 1/2" plumbing . I can work on SUs and I know for my basicly stock engine they will supply amply. I personally do not have the smarts or the equipment to deal with injection. If carberaters were the best all the cars would have them ! Plane and simple but the emissions bug has changed everything . For performance either will work vary well. my 3cs

You would most likely get more response from the hibredz site

midwestz has the kit for $199. + shipping , and this is for all the glass , the hatch and both doors and under the hood as well. This is hard to beat I will give ztherapy a call but I think I am going with Chloe in any event. Thanks

Yes do use the brackets. The sway bar from a early 260 fits these as well. Midwest z most likely can come up with the plates. :classic:

check the chokes sounds like one in sticking. reach under the carb and push on the mixture adjustment , see if it snaps up. Check the fuel line there that runs from the float bowl to the adjustment , the grose jet, if the hose is stiff or brittle replace it . That will cause the choke to stick becauses it wedges it to one side. The local parts store fuel line is too stiff , and DO NOT USE VACUME LINE , it will not handel the fuel , and the manifold is right there. You might try a Harley shop . For sure Ztherapy has the right stuff. :classic:

Blue Zee this is the site I have been looking for ! thanks a bunch:classic:

zeiss150 , the SUs will supply the stroker , but it depends on what you are doing with the car . If on the track and running at or near redline , tripples will give more power . The SUs will do the job no doubt there is a guy running su that is turning in the 12sec . 1 /4 . drags. I have his email address I hope . I recently lost my hard drive and lost the address book. send a email to ztherapy they are vary good and can advise you better than I . :classic:

Nothing major , I am swaping out the 180 and going with the R-200 . The trouble I am having is the studs that are in the back of the diff. that bolt to the moustash bar are larger than the 180s that I had planned to use. WHAT SIZE ARE THE NUTS ?? I know the thread size is 1.5 but I need to know what the size is . I miked the stud and they are .510 in dia. accross the threads . Is it a 13 mm or 12mm? Thanks Gary

I am not defending Jessy but I don't think he has anything to do with Orange C. C. As to what they do with Monster Garage creations. There was a Rod and Custom show here in Portland and there was the Jet powered Toyota. the Golf ball retrever and the trash compactor cars. I shure agree on Boyd C. Relly apairent that he is just the name on the door. Maybe in the past when he got started he was a hands on builder , but no longer.

Well Mr Camo. my transvers link is stright not curved and the car is a '73 built 8/73 which is the build date of the '74 also. Go figure. That SHOWS TO GO YA , YOU CANT COUNT ON THINGS TO BE WHAT THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO BE . Supprised be too. :stupid:

what year is it and it's a Z isn't ? :classic:

I agree enough is enough this is stupid. Frankly an over restored car Z or any other car, that is a garage or trailer queen is a sad comintary of someone that has both too much money and too little of a life. If it is in collection like in the Smithsonian this is annother matter. For a person like J. Leno , and others like him , it's like collecting baseball cards. And just a fun thing, but in his case he drives his cars and cycles so in my mind does not fall into the garage queen slot. To get all twiterpated over this definition of "IS " has become boring. NUF SAID

Marty , you might be able to cap the port of 23 at both ends . Droping the tank is not that tuff. just empty it first. If you have a electric fuel pump , pump it dry. If not there is a drain plug. Mine was half full and I just used the electric pump and connected a power source to the pump and ran the fuel line at the filter to a length of hose and pan in into 1gallon jugs and dumped them into my truck's tank. if you print the diagram I can walk you through the hose and evap tank removal.Gary:classic:

I agree , it's time to give it a rest .

I used escanlon's sandblaster and it worked fine I dident find any trouble with rust being peaned into the metal. I treated all bare metal with the Mariene Clean and Metal ready , then painted all with POR . It is vary important to tape off everything ,as was mentioned , that you dont want sand in. Any switches and so forth it is amaizing how it filters in to everything . I know of no other rust preventive better than POR. my 2.5 c

Thanks guys v8-240z has one and I am going to pick it up on Monday :classic: