beandip

I have Farmers and I told my agent that I was dismanteling the Z for a overhaul , not a restoration , and that it was to be down for about a y ear. He wrote a policy that covers the car for fire and theft and if it is trailered for work being done . $9.00 a year. When the car is driveable and I want to get it on the road . I will have meeting and he will write a agreed upon value policy. He indicated that they would be compairable to Hagerty. When the time comes I will see . There is another ins. co American Collectors Insurance Inc. 498 Kings Highway North Cherry Hill , New Jersey 08002 So there is another one. They quoted me for $6500 value $78.00 per YR. Like the other specialty policies they require a locked garage , and have various limits on mileage driven. They also require a daily driver. Gary

Datsun-F , One thing that is a supprise to owners is that primer is porus and allows moisture to contact the metal underneath. This is why people find rust under the paint sometimes . If the car is sanded to baremetal and primed and driven for a while before painted with a top coat . Rusting can take place , and then when top coat is applied it seals in the rust . When sanding the car with the D A be on the lookout for this and also bondo . Bondo will also allow moisture in and the same thing can happen under it . Sand the edges to bare meatal as you go to see if you find any rust. To just remove all the paint , just because , can be making a lot of unneeded work for your self. If bondo or any body filler has been applied over holes drilled through the metal and these are exposed to mointure , remove the bondo and either braze or solder the holes ,before applying the filler.

Razor, Motorsport had them and you could try V B . If the cap it's self is not damaged you can replace the grbber gasket. A new cap is $ 59.95 at Victoria British

I have been told that you can topcoat right over the self etching ptimer but you need to sand it first if a certain amount of time has passed . I am sorry but I cannot remember how long for sure and dont want to give the wrong information . Ask escanlon he knows:classic:

Shifting the tranny with out the use of the clutch is hard on the clutches inside the transmission . They are there to align the gears so they don't clash when the change is made normaly. If you force the gear change the strain on the metal disks will cause undue wear . this also happends when a speed shift is done . If you dont know what that is . It's when you keep your gas peddel to the floor and just hit he cluch and shift as fast as you can . If NOT done right the engine and or trans will act like a hand gernade. Done correctly it keeps the engine RPMs spooled up. This is done in cycle raceing all the time and I used to do this in my street raceing days and only dropped one trans. . This is hard on the running gear and the wallet .

If you live near a Harbor Fright they have peckle forks for less than $6.00. Check with midwesz.com for the new tie rods . they are a sponser here and give us a good price on parts. Gary

I went to the dyno shop for a local club's dyno day and one of the employes ran his Turbo Sentra . He had a nitrus set up but dident use it . Diden't have a bottle connected. turned 720Hp the first pull and cooled it down and then turned 740 Hp the next time. I don't know his name but you could call the shop and talk to him. the shop is Torque Freaks Portland Ore. :classic:

You need a new braker plate. Contact Chloe at midwestz.com . You dident say anything about what ignition that you are running. I just rebuilt mine it's a '79 ZX Chloe at midwestz saved me at least 30% they are a sponser of the club , be sure to mention it. If you ask she can send you a diagram of the dist with the part numbers . Gary:classic:

Welcome aboard . I dont think I can be of any help to you here , I don't know a thing about a 300 other than they have 4 tires and look different than a 240Z:classic:

Some of the value will depend upon where you live. Higher on the east coast because of the salt rusting away so many of the older cars. You said that there was some rust bubbeling in the paint on the door. This is most likely coming through from the back side. It was said eailer that rust is the largest cost with these cars and it is so vary true. Lift the carpets and look at the metal of the floors on both footwells . Look below the battery in the engine compartment , the frame rail passes under the batt. look close there. The rust in the lower sil of the hatch can just be the tip of the ice berg there as well. If the floor pan is shot , you are looking at about $1000. + to have one done right. Mag wheels are not plentifull for these older cars , so dont assume that you can just go to the local tire shop and look at a selection. You said the interior was in good shape , this is good . Is the dash cracked and , or , does it have a cap on it . These are some things to look at. All the electrical components should be in working order , wypers , heater fan and so on. Good luck Let us know what you find. Gary

When the evap tank is removed .The air that is in the fuel tank when the car is refuled is vented into the filler neck and out of the car. This is the difference . In most of the states there is a rubber seal on the dispenser nozzle that will capture these fumes. The vent line that runs from the three way valve , this should be connected to the fuel tank to replace the air volume in the tank as gas is being used. Eliminating all the vent lines and the evap tank helps greatly to eliminate the smell of stale gas in the cabin of the car. In fact it should stop it altogether.:classic:

Echo , I have a really good piece of advise. Buy a repair manual ! The best is a Nissan shop manual but they are not cheep. You can find Chilton or Haynes on e-bay for about $9.00 . In there you will find the information you need. Fireing order how to adjust things and make repairs. To have your Z run in good order and keep it that way, there is basic knowledge needed that is specific to Z cars. Some times you can find these manuals in the used book stores. Here on this site is a good place to get information , but for reference get the books. Check out the Tec. pages there is a ton of good info there.

dont use wd-40 on guns and reels either. On gun actions & reels it turns to gum over time. It displaces water great but will not protect metal from rust vary well and is just so so for a lube. Another thing it is good for , as a replacement for starting fluid for a hard starting engine. Just spray some in the intake giving about a 5 sec. spray and start the engine . Here is Oregon fisherman spray the bate with it for Salmon , no kidding. As was stated before there are far better products for penitrating oil. I think KROIL is the best and PB blaster is a close secound, it is just the smell of the blaster is so strong and it stinks. :classic:

If you are running a # 36 intake manifold hang on to it and just change the carbs. You will be vary happy with them as they are easy to tune and work great. They use the same intake that you have you just need the linkage and air cleaner for the SUs. You might contact Ztherapy . They are the A # 1 source for info on these. :classic:

My '73 had a vinyl top at one time , there were holes in the roof where the chrome strip went just above the hatch. There is a '77Z that a lady drives that works at the bank, and it is clean , clean , clean. It has a vinyl top , the first one I have seen up close and in person. The dealers tried to add some things to the cars to buck up the prices since they came with almost everything that was wanted. Tops and mag wheels and the bumper strips on the fenders.

I dident count the celing . I have four duplex on the celing and six 4' double floro lights . One of the wall duplex outlets is covered with a refer full of Bud. I count ten total. No 220 . No welder . :classic: I insulated the walls and replaced the garage door with an insulated one . When it is + 20 out side I can get it to a comfortable 45 to 50 with a propane heater .

I AM OUT OF HERE GONZO

A vary good sourse is midwestz.com Chloe is vary good and helpful she deals mostly with Nissan parts but some times after market and I have even bought used from her. Midwest Z is a sponser of our club here . Give them a look. GaryROFL

I just read a test results that was done by Motor Trend on the early '71 240. The results at 1/4 mile times was only .5 sec slower for the automatic . 82.0 for the auto and 84.5 for the manual four speed. The test cars got 21 miles per gal for the stick and 19 for the auto. Now my L-24 was getting 23 on the hi way with the automatic , but I havent had the speedo checked . I have read some test results that the turbo will be faster with the automatic because it keeps the turbo spooled up between shifts witch is quicker. I guess it all boils down to the fact that there is a "POT FOR EVERY BUTT " . All the best to all. Gary

Damn I wish I could be of help here , but I dont know a lick about 280s . Try Carl Beck sind him a pvt message .:classic:

Thank you all for your prayer and kind thoughts. The latest information is that one lymph node was also involved and she will need radiation as well as keimo. She has a positive attitude and is just wanting to get on with the treatments. And is healing well . Thank you all Gary

My other car was a Jeep Lorado and it had a 5 speed. I wanted the manual because it was a 4 X 4 . I drive for the most part in the city and on freeways about 20% in the open road and mountains. I like the automatic for the ease of driving in town and the performance is fine , for a street driver. At least for me . Sitting is gridlock with a stick can be a pain in the neck . I agree that a true sports car being driven as a sports car is better with a manual , at least it feels more like you are part of the car and how it performes. :classic:

If the batt goes dead since the alarm systime was installed and it was ok before , by all means take it back . Something is connected wrong. The systime on stand buy for only a few days shouldent effect the battery hardly at all.

First of all , thank you , all of you for your responce it means alot to me and my family. She came through the operation fine and the Dr. said that he dident find any supprises. That can be taken either way . We really wont know much more untill the lab results to see how far things have gone. They said that the chances of this happening to someone so young is 1 in 20,000 . I know that they have been doing wonders with the treatment of canser and it is no longer an automatic death warrent . But never the less it's still hard on every one in both familys. Thank you all again Gary

My '73 with a L-28 is an automatic. When I bought the car the first thing I was going to do was make the change to a 5 speed. I decided to drive the car for a while before doing so and am glad that I did. It's been 3 yrs now and no way do I want to change. Now , this car is a driver and I do not race , at least on the track, and do not plan to. As long as there are parts available if and when I need repairs , I will continue with the automatic. My 2c:classic: