beandip

here you go. midwestz.com contact Chloe she will help you and she has vary good prices. If you dont buy from her at least she will give you the info you need. Gary

just check the local auto parts store, they have more than one level of quality . you get what you pay for . :classic:

she is undergoing surjury for canser a double masectomey in the morning . I am asking for your positive thoughts and prayers. I know this is an un usual request here but I ask a favor of you all. thank you Gary she is only 30 and has a baby 15 months old.

Carl , the people that were having trouble with filling the tank were eliminating both large vent lines and using the small vent line from the top of the tank to do the venting to the filler neck. This caused a vary slow fill and fuel belched back up the filler neck because of the volume of liquid going in the tank was greater than the small vent line could handel . That or were using the lower vent line from the small end of the tank that is submerged when the tank is a little more than half full. Once the vent was submerged it couldent vent the air to the filler neck and the belching and slow fill was again the problem. Nissan does make the hose to do this "mod" , from what I have learned the evap tank was not required in all venues and was vented as Rick and myself have stock. Chloe has the hoses at $29. a copy. Again I don't know about the 280s tanks I havent seen one , just the '70 -- '73 Z .

Be aware that the floors and trans tunnel act as part of the frame . Much less the rockers. I just replaced the floor on the passanger side of my 240 and repaired the drivers side. I cut away the old floor and preped the perimeter of the floor area so that it was clean and ready for welding and i fitted in the new floor pan . A pan form Zed Findings. I installed the pan with self tapping sheet metal screws at about 4" spacing . The certified welder I hired Tig welded the perimiter and pulled the screws and filled the holes as he went, This cost me just over $600. all total. He did the job in his spare time at home over a couple of weekends. A good deal for the both of us . Frame rails are another matter , I recommend contacting Charlie Osborne at Zed Findings , he has the vary best products , better than origional. After all the welding was finished I sand blasted the whole area that was worked on and treated all bear metal with POR following the recommended three step process, this is a must if you are using POR paint. Otherwise the paint will peal right off if not preped correctly . If all you are woried about is dents and not rust , if you are not building a concors show car , pound out the dents . The replaceing of all the sheetmetal is a costly under taking. I had estimets of $1300.00 for my job, so shop around.

YES ! Fix one thing at a time ! if you do change plugs use only NGK they work the best in these Zs trust me. Just the standard ones no platnum. Is the engine backfireing? or just missing under load. For now concentrate on when the engine is warmed up for any testing . All cold engines will act up when cold. 1st . did this all happen since you worked on the wireing? If so what did you do ? look there. 2nd look inside the dist . cap and clean the contact free of any crud and see if they are burned same for the rotor. If a dist with points check to see if they are pitted or have a spike . if either replace them. and the condencer as well. When at idle does the engine misfire? if it is missing put on some gloves and remove a plug wire and see if the engine changes speed . do this one at a time the bad one the engine will not change speed. If you find one that seems bad , try this plug in a different cylinder and see if it still missfires. You could have a bad plug wire. I agree it sounds like ignition especially since you said it was missing. Also check the vacume advance if equiped with one. I hope you are aware that just because the temp gague says the engine is warmed this may not be the case . It takes a while for the engine to properly warm up so have patience here. I dont know of your experience level. Its 1:30am time for bed . Good luck

I wish I could help but I replaced the fllat tops with round tops and got rid of all the hoses and dont have a clue. Sorry:cry:

GO TO THE TEC. SECTION AND SCROLL DOWN AND FIND THE ENTRY ON SETTING THE SUs . Many mechanics now days do not understand carberaters they work on injection and plug in to a computer that tells them what is what. The low tec early Z is a different breed of cat. and so are SUs . They are super simple to adjust , you just need to have a couple of tools . One being a uni-sun which is a devise that will show you the air flow being drawn into the carb so you can ballance both units . this and a screw driver and you are good to go. uni-sun $25.00 at a good parts store that has a speed section. Victora British as well. As for the valves clicking is the sound light or loud ? If only a minor clicking and if there is no visual damage ,if you can ignore it this may be the way to go. Just as long as there isnt a broken spring or a damaged lash pad or cam lobe. If a valve is a little loose it is better than too tight. I think you should try the carbs and then have a mechanic listen to the valve noise and evaluate the sound. That is if you know one you can trust. like 59 said check the springs and 2many said check the wear pattern on the cam it should be shinny and smooth on all the lobes , compair them to oneanother if one is worn you may have a flat cam.

I contacted B-Quiet and got a sample set sent to me . I am going with the '' brown bread'' it comes in a roll and you cut it to fit with a razor knife or sissors. It is self sticking with a peal off backing .To do the whole car like escanlon did doors and all it is about $100. If I remember right . Mike G used this on his yellow jedda also. send him a question. The thickness is about the same as the Q pads but it is covered with aluminum skin so the exposed surface is not stickey or will rub off. :classic:

It sounds like fuel but this might be a red herring. If you have access to a coil , try a different coil. They can brake down when heated and cause the same thing you are describing. Any 12v coil will do. You did mention the fuel lines looked fine , did you look at the full length of them , just in case it was crimped or damaged from being struck by a rock or something. You stated that this problem has been going on for some time . Was it like this when you bought the car a year ago ? Or did it come on since you have owned the car ? Have you checked the pressure of the fuel since the new electric pump was installed,and between the regulator and the carbs? Have you tried to blow air pressure back toward the tank before the electric pump was installed . I dont think I would blow pressure through the pump so if you do this disconnect it first and blow air into the tank through the fuel line so if there is a blockage in the pick up you will clear it. There are filters in the inlets of the carbs also dont over look them if they are still installed.

If it has been a couple of years or so . Drain all the fluids and change with fresh. BEFORE you install the oil filter fill it half full or oil first . Remove all the spark plugs and squirt some oil into the cylinders , about a tsp. each . Leave the plugs out and pull the valve cover and pour oil over the cam and rockers then spin the engine with the plugs out to get the oil moving and keeping the cam oiled. then install the cover and the plugs . Using a little starting fluid wont hurt and start her up. Draining the fuel is a must and so is new fuel filters. Doing the fuel first is the best because when you turn the engine over you will activate the pump. So clean this first. :classic: Be aware that you may need to change the fuel filters a few times dependig on how much varnish and crud is in the tank. Hopefully it dident rust while inactive. Empty or near empty tanks have a tendancy of sweating with temp. changes and collect moisture and rust the bottom of the tank. If you find this is the case , POR has a kit to seal the insides of the tank. :classic:

And do NOT use sylicone sealer . If that stuff gets loose and in the oil it can clogg oil passages and couse all sorts of bad things. I some times use it but vary vary thinly and not on valve cover gaskets.

There is no doubt that there is an abnormal condition that you are experiencing . Especially when you state that the functioning of the wypers cause the radio to stop working . Who installed the radio and where did they get the power supply for it ? Was the wireing cobbed up to do the install? I dont know if this will make a difference in this case, but there should be a ground strap at the rear of the engine to the firewall to ground the block. I doubt that this would cause your problem but it will cut down on static on the radio. Here is a test that you can try . go out and turn on the head lights with the engine off as well as all other electrical items, just the head lights. Now blow the horn and watch the difference in the brightness of the lights. If they dim much at all have the battery checked. Have a load check done not just a meter that shows voltage. You need to see what it shows under load. Then go from there in your quest. 1st do the test 2nd clean all electrical contacts, grounds , all of it. 3rd charge the batt . and do the horn test again . 4th load test. Where I live they sell batteries at the tire shop and can do a load test. and will do it free. Good luck. Gary

Way back you said that you took the batt from a car that had NOT been driven regularly , did you put it on the battery charger??? First off before you can gague this voltage problem you MUST start with a good fully charged batt. The pulley size change is not a good idea unless you only drive slow ! They are sized so that they will generate enough rpm for the alt . or water pump or what ever to spin at a speed to do there job in a normal condition. Now have you looked at the head light bulbs ? Are they seald beams or have they been upgraded to halogen units? They will draw more current. You said that the battery connections were removed from the batt, did they get cleaned of all dirt and crud at that time. Is the surface of the batt clean ? If allowed to become dirty on the top or outside there will be a current loss that can be mesured with a meter there. As was stated before start cleaning ALL connections ,caroded connections will cause resistance and heat in the wireing and failure. When you start the engine DO NOT have any lights on untill the engine is running. After checking what I have just suggested the problem still exists I recommend that you have the electrical systime checked by a professional. :classic:

if there are any RX-7s around at the bone yards . The cars that are carbed use a great little fuel pump that is pirfect for the SUs and cheep at the yards . I bought mine for $15. and have beer running it for over 2yrs. and there quiet and no regulater is needed. Just be sure it is from a NON FUEL INJECTED CAR.

WHAT IF WHAT IF ! HOW ABOUT A VIPER V-10 this is starting to sound like zcar.com !

The recent International Auto Show was held in Ptln. and a few of us met with several of the club mambers of N West Z . They invited us all to attend the dyno day if we wanted .

I am in the Beaverton area by 217 & 26 . There is a local club,sort of , in the area . Mostly in the Salem area and they are haveing a dyno day on the 13th, by PDX . Seems like mostly they are 300 drivers. But there are a few of us around the area. Gary

check midwestz.com

I am not sure what you are doing. If you disconnected the vent line then the tank is drawing a vacume. What are you doing trying to out cleaver the designers of the Z ?

Not a good thing to run with out the PCV , this will cause the engine to severly build sludge. The PCV does not effect performance. :classic:

Dont you use the choke untill the engine warms up? This is what it is for to richen the mixture untill the engine is up to normal temp. If you adjust the mixture for a cold engine , it will always be too rich when it warms up. There is one more thing you can do is to use 20wt oil in the carbs . This will give a richer mixture for a secound off the line and help eliminate any stumble. This will not effect mileage or performance other wise only helps off the line from idle or low RPM.

Tomo , yes that is the pan . I dont have a digital camera sorry