beandip

I have a question , years ago I owned another car with a inline 6 , and I modified the exhaust manifold to in stall dual exhaust . I used two 20" glass packs , and it sounded real nice , both inside and outside the car. I experienced zzero resonence , and I have heard time and again that it is a problem with the large piping. I am redoing alot of things on my '73 240 , and one is the installation of a modified 280 engine. Nothing drastic , just a street cam and milled head and 12--80 dist, and headers. I have a 21/2" plumbing systime I can stick on . My old exhaust was only the stock 240 , and was shot. So here is my question . What is the reason vary few of us Z drivers run dual exhaust ? Is it because of emissions and having to run duel converters ? Is it because of the tight space under the car ? I am just wondering because I am really contimplating a dual exhaust with 2" or smaller pipe off the headers. I am running SUs on this flat top engine , and have no emission concerns . this Z is for street use. I am asking this because most of my experience is with large V-8s and making them run , and this Z is a different bread of cat. Thank you for your input. :classic:

here is a web page that will ans. questions that you havent even thought of . geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

It could still be the alarm system . In the future to check to see if it is the batt . turn on the head lights and then blow the horn . if the lights go dim it's the batt.

since you have pulled the head, and you are sure that the plug wires are correct and the timing has been done I really suspect the valve timing . It can easily be assembled off either way by a tooth . I have a ? why did you remove the injection and replace it with quad ? Just wondering

brian , If we are on for Mon . what time ? and what is your new email address ? G

justacarguy where in the hell have you been? as for the poll married to #1 for 43yrs. , 44 in Feb. So far I think I hold the record here. GaryROFL

Scoho , the vacume advance hose should be connected to a vacume port right behind the front carb dome and the manifold. It looks like a little tube about 1/8" in dia. and about 1/2" high. If you connect to manifold vacume it will go to full advance at start up and when you open the throttle and the vacume drops the advance will go to retard. The vacume must be from the carberater.

when you had the carbs apart did you check the butterfly clearence ? If the butterfly is not adjusted properly there will be a air leak around it and you wont be able to ballance the carbs. . If this is the case what you must do is to remove the carb and look through it with the butterfly closed. Hold it up to a light and see if there is light around the disk. Be sure to have the idle adjustment backed off. If there is light seen around the disk , loosen the screws that hold the disk in place just enough that the disk will move with some resistance. Now close the throttle firmly and check for alignment . Do this untill it is seated all around and no light is seen , tighten one of the screws and check again if all looks good remove the loose screw and use lock-tite on it and tighten it down and do the same with the remaining screw . This should do it if you dont have another vacume leak. When you lifted the front carb. piston and the engine died , it's because the rear carb is too lean . Now this could be caused by the above needed adjustment , or it might be just out or adjustment. If you want a step by step on adjustment . Go to the tec page and scrowl down to the information on SU adjustment..:classic:

There is a guy normthe12secdude He frequents the zcar.com site and he runs in the 12s with SUs . He is in Seattle Wa.

I hope you dident get them too tight or you will be having the experience of removing the head.

you are lucky , so many of these links have been removed . Had this been the case you would have fried everything ispecially if the ignition switch was in the on position.

In the US the 260 was offered only one year. And it was offered in a 2+2 and a 2 seater. The automatic trans was offered form the factory starting with the '71 240 . In '73 it was the start of the strict emission standards here in the states and caused Datsun to come up with crappy carberaters and lower compression. In '74 they stroked the engine and with the longer stroke came up with the 260 engine with the emissions carb. Most people replace the carbs with earlier SUs from '70---'72 units but keep the stock manifold. The 260 is a little heavier than privious cars. For the most part the cars are the same as a 240 Things like bumpers and steering wheel are different tail lights are a little different , things like this. One thing about the Zs is that the engines heads transmissions and differentials are all interchangeable as well as a ton of other things up to about '75 the 280s started with the '75 and they are all fuelinjected. Hope this helps . try this site for information geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Gary

Blitz just to be sure on this , keep an eye on the coolent level to see if it drops or not . On the out side chance you have a leaking head gasket. By the way you mentioned that you just got her back on the road. If you pulled t he head , its a good idea to retorque the head after you have driven ,say 500 miles .:classic:

Dont have a clue what a T-5 is but the line from the pan must be part of the PVC systime . Don't know anything of the turbo engines but , they have an oil cooler could it be a return oil line ? Just a thought . I have a 82 ZX enging but no extra lines from the pan. Gary

For one thing tuneing the car is by far the easyest thing you will ever do for your car , you might as well get a good book and jump in . If you run into trouble , here we are , as for info. just go to the tec. section just before this help section and scroll down the list . there is a wealth of infromaton there. and it's free. Read and or print off the info. take it with you and take a look at the project , if you dont understand what is what , post a question and one of us will help. If you lived in Portland Or or are willing to drive here , Ha Ha ,I'll be glad to help. Gary:classic:

Can you vent the line to the air cleaner you are running? If the engine cannot breathe you will form sludge bigtime . Do you smell fumes in the car with the use of the air filter on the valve cover? I hav heard that this was a big drawback to them. You should be running a PCV valve in the mix as it does nothing to the power and helps the engine to stay clean and get rid of the condinsation that formes in the block when the engine cools and heats. It should be connected to the crankcase vent line.

smusicmans , this is a shot in the dark , but I am running the same ignition in my 240. I recently had a stumbling that I thought was fuel problem and couldent figure it out . To make a long story short it turned out to be the braker plate and a damaged stator. There inside the dist, the braker plate is the flat disk that is connected to the vacume advance diafram. It has little ball bearings 6 total the allow this two disk unit to revolve , and they are held in place with plastic keepers. Mine failed and one of the balls came loose and when that happened the plates came together allowing the other two inplace to also be free to fly around and the stator was chipped, it is the thing that has the 6 things standing up when you look down inside the dist, Any way take a good look inside and see if you can see any loose little balls or parts of the magnet. Good luck , hope this is of some help. by the way if you need parts midwestZ is a good sorce and a sponcer as well. :classic: