beandip

This is to clairfy my earlier post . The bend in the sway bar is there to clear the forward diff . cross member Gary

David , it is too bad that we had to meet in this manner. I do want to welcome you to the club here. I think that you will find a wealth of information and good people here. And we do vary much treasure out Z cars that is for sure. And again welcome to the group. Gary:classic:

dispillman , I am sorry that y ou are dissapointed in the car and the deal . This is a given with ANY transaction. However the fact of the matter is , you should have asked the questions and done the checking by at least contacting a Nissan dealer in the area and hiring a mechanic or service person or body and fender man to have a look at the car for you and report back . I have done inspections of this sort in the past for members of this forum and saved then a lot of money in air fair not to mention anguish. When you go to a car DEALER and buy a NEW or USED car , dont you take it out and drive it FIRST before you sign on the dotted line? From what you posted on the other web site , it sounds like a good car and one that would be vary sellable if this is what is next for the Z . Again vary sorry for your distasteful transaction and but cuda , wodda, shoudda . that is not of much comfort . I can see both sides of this coin. Gary

Tomahawk what we are talking of here is the 240 shape Z and the tests that were done were on the first of the Zcar . The facts that I have been refering to are for this car . Namely the '70 240 which were less than 2800ccs. Dont believe what you read on the plate. There is no way the engine ever made that HP at the wheels. Yes at the crankshaft on an engine stand with out a alternater or water pump or any other add ons. Figure about 135 HP on a good day at the wheels.

Zedd findings they are the best you can get. They come with the center strut support and are thicker than stock. Pritty much drop in replacement . I only neded to make two small cuts to relieve the metal to make a bend. I have pictures if you want. I dont have a digital camera but are on CDs . get me a email address to send them to you through our pvt mail and I will forward what you want Gary I can talk you through it if needed . The floors must be welded in as the floor on these cars acts as part of the frame. Gary:classic: One thing do not do any cutting untill you have the floors in hand so you can see what the limits of the pans are. The edges extend up the sides about 2" and extend up the front slant about the same and extend to the rear past the rear seat support and up the same ammt from the floor level. If the frame rails are too rusted to weld to they should be replace also and if this is the case the car is likely a parts car that is being driven, sorry . Vary costly to repair if done correctly unless you are a tig welder your self.

The car first of all was sold as a project car . Yes it was sold by a professional Z restorer . But was advertised as a project. I was in the add that the car was origional I will give you that , it was also said that the car was inspected . Was the inspection asked for by the buyer NO ! Did the buyer ask questions as to the condition of the engine and what trans. was in the car no. Could be an automatic . The buyer is jumping up and down because brake lines have been replaced and the alternater has been changed . Yes there is a L-28 engine in the car. If anyone buys a 30+ old car on Ebay or any where, sight unseen , He is setting him self up for dissapointment . Especially if he thinks he is to get a rust free absolutly origional auto of the age of these cars , for under 10K much less half that. Becaue in his mind the car is one way and when it is first seen it will be different and not as good as it mental picture. I saw the add and read the other posts from the other venue and I still say he got what he paid for. Major case of buyers remorse. Tired of beating this DEAD HORSE. :mad:

Has any used products from EXPRESS GLASS INC. in HOUMA LA. I am replacing my windshield and need a gasket and found one on on ebay . I am just wonering about the quality and fit , form this company . If any one has any knowledge here please share. Thanks Gary:classic:

thanks for the information.

the bar needed if you use the factory mount that you show in the picture is from a vary early 260 ! This bar has different bends so the bar will clear the diff. . It mounts in front of the diff. The one that mounts in back of the diff is a after market part. I dont have a digital camera sorry. By the way all of the end links are the same . When you find a early 260 and get down and look at the bar from the side you will see right away the difference. I have a friend that I think is going to part out a 260 that has one . I will see what he says. Gary

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The fuel pump question. I Have a '73 also but am running an electric only , it's one form a '79 RX-7 . They put out right at 3.5 psi and work great and the price is right. I bought mine at the bone yard for $15.00 and they are quiet . I have run in eastern oregon in the summer in traffic 110degs and no problem with vapor lock. This was with my L-24 engine I am rinning a ZX engine now and they have no provision for a mechanical pump so I am still good to go. If you decide to find one they are mounted on the driver's side ahead of the diff. , this is or the RX.:classic:

Are you pulling the head because you think you may have a blown head gasket ? Have you had the coolent systime pressure tested? Are you seeing any signs in the coolent of a leak, or in the oil ? Another thing is the coolent level droping? If the answer is yes to any of the questions , Pull the head. I agree with 2many on the wedge.

F-54 is the block from the ZX series cars. Still a 280 but the casting is enternally different , just the way the cylinders were supported has nothing to do with displacement. These are the latest evolution of the inline 6. I n boring a L-24 out to the larger pistons the side wall can get thin.

If the stink is stale like old gas , more than likely hoses from the evap. tank that is located in the passanger side fender well to the rear of the tire . These were fitted on Zs in the USA to try and catch the fumes and cause them to be burned by the engine. If it is a fresh gas smell , the filler neck to the fuel tank also passes through this same cavity an become brittle with age and crack , this could also be a sorce of the smell. If what your smelling is exhausts fumes, any opening in the floor where the hoses enter or if there is a crack in the calking across the rear of the floor. Or what was already stated the gaskets for the tail lights or rear hatch, they crack and leak. You see the Z disign creats a vacume to the rear of the rear of the car as it traveles along. If you open a window it will draw this vacume space forward and all the fumes will find a entrance in to the enterior. Also If the vent from the valve cover is not connected to the air cleaner , blow by is added to the mix.:classic:

It was a good show. And we had a great time meeting some fellow Z drivers. Had dinner and a few brews and talked cars and all sorts of things . vary enjoyable evening . Sorry you missed it , mabey next time. :classic:

You might check the gague it may not be reading correctly. You cannot always count on the gagues to be that accurate. You may not be overheating but the gague is off. Also the thermostat may be opening late . Check it in a pan of water and a candy thermometer to see when it opens. I use a double boiler so the reading is more accerate. I would do that first. you seem to think that the rad is good so check the thermastat. :classic:

down force is what the tests show no kidding. I will look further and see how many other tests include this sort of data. The test I am quoteing also shows the G-forces and degree of lean on turn at speed , compaired to other cars. The Z showed 1.03 hp per cu Inch. but I think that was at the flywheel. I dont think the early Z had 150 HP at the rear wheels.

for sure the bottom and yes no tail, well , no whale tail. GaryROFL

I have been hearing that about the 36 intake for years but havent seen any dyno data to back it up. No et times showing any difference either , of cource this would be open to question. Gary

bkiller I dident ask about the air dam but thanks for the info. rb-30-ZED , no it is different I dont have a scanner or I would send a page . This is a report on three different cars and as a compairson the '70 240Z , OPEL GT , MGB GT one and a third pages of results of testing of the three cars. as far as down force vs lift. the Opel GT front 130 lbs of LIFT and rear 155 lbs of LIFT and 230 lbs of drag. The MGB GT , front 70 lbs. LIFT and rear, 130 lbs LIFT and 285 lbs of drag. I don't know if any of this is of interest but I just thought I would pass it on I found it interesting because these were the cars of the era that were in compitition. All were priced at or near $3500.00 .

There is only a couple of things that it could be. The float level is too high or the shut off needle is not shuting off , leaking ,stuck, a little piece of crud stuck in the way of the needle, or the float has a hole in it and is sinking. All these will cause what you are describing. You dident just install a new electric fuel pump did you ? If so check the pressure .:classic: I dident ask if the float BOWL was filling up but the FLOAT ITS SELF.

killer you can seal # GF-23 port at the tank attach # 24 to the port on the filler neck where 22 is now connected. Connect the long hose that is shown going to the top of the evap tank, attach it to the port of the gastank by the 21 port is . This will eliminate the little evap tank and all that plumbing. then the holes in the floor of the car where all the hoses came through can be sealed off. To seal off the port on the tank use a 3" length of copper water pipe and seal deburr it on the inside and solder a cap on it then seal it with J b weld or POR patch smeared on the tank pipe and tap the copper piece onto the pipe, it is a tight fit but if there are no berrs it will slide on with vary little effort. :classic: by the way POR sells a kit to redo a fuel tank clean it out and seal it from the inside for $49.95 .

did you check the float to see if it has any fuel in it ? It may have a leak. or set so the level of the fuel is too high in the float chamber. :classic:

S.C.G. Stands for Sports Car Graphic It was a magazine that did testing like Motor Trend and Road & Track. They published compairisons of the new offerings when they came out and tested everything such as cornering, brakeing , stopping , brake fade milage as well as the aerodynamics. they show 15.5 lbs per HP on a '70 240 Z The book DATSUN Gold Portfolio is a 172 pages of tests and articles about the 240 and 260 Z and a little on the 280.

I have changed hundreds of u-joints but don't know what is ment by a spicer u joint. If they are like a conventional u joint you just remove the u shaped spring retaining clip on the outside of the bearing cap and press the bearing down and out of the yoke to the center, forcing the other cap out the back or other side of the yoke. Remove the bearing caps and repeat with the other side. I mark the yoke and shaft so I can assemble the unit as it was. When removing the parts if you dont have a press , use a drift about the size of the cap. A old socket will work but will be ruined. Place the socket or drift on the bering cap and strike with a hammer and force the parts out the other side like a press would have. When assembling just make sure the bering cap is square with the yoke so it dosn't bind or **** when you drive the parts together. I use my vice to assemble the thing rather than pound it to gether. Be sure to lube the unit because they are not lubed at the factory , only enough grease to hold the needle bearings in place. Use chassy lube and only enough to the point that you can see the rubber seal start to flex. If too much grease is forced in it can force the seal out of its grouve and it will leak the grease when it spins especially on the drive shaft. :classic: