beandip

phred the head guru recommended to me to use a exhost gasket form Motorsport , the heavy duty one because they are thicker . This is what he uses on the race engines and he says that they work the best with headers and dont fall apart if the header needs to be removed after a race. I ordered two a long as I was at it. Gary:classic:

there is no need to cover a braded ground wire or protect it from water , you want it to ground the systime it is connected to. The main thing is to see that where it is connected the surface is clean and free of paint and rust. If concerned about crrosion spray with WD 40. Gary

If you have access to a bone yard find a RX-7 '79 or '80 and pull the electric fuel pump, there on the driver's side and just in front of the fuel tank. They work vary well and I bought mine for only $15.00 and are a smap to mount and are QUIET. If you are having vapor lock problems this should fix it. I would install an inline filter in between the pump and the tank. Have you changed the fuel filter on the fender in the engine bay? if not do it . These are cheep fixes and are most likely you will do them in the future anyway . On the pump just be sure it is from a carbed engine not injected.Gary:classic:

Gema, my first guess is the filler neck hose where it connects to the tank inlet. I think the hose is about $50.00. I just pulled my tank and in fact am painting it with POR today. I am going to eliminate the evap tank and all the hoses that cary the vapor and stink into the cabin area to the evap tank. There is a OEM hose for this . Cars that were not for the US market dident have this smelly systime. Gary:classic:

snoochee , midwestz is a sponsor here on our site. Check with Chloe . midwestz.com I just rebuilt my dist. and the braker plate was $45.53 . Personally I wouldent spend the money on a old dist with points. Mine is all electronic from a '79ZX and it is a great systime . Vary much worth the effort . The cost for your braker plate will be about the same I think . To answer the question on how hard it is to replace . Not hard at all , but you must pull the dist. . The thing is when it is rebuilt it will still have points and will still be running on 8volts and will require you to change points form time to time dipending on the miles driven. Ignitions with points are no longer used on any modern engines because they are just not as efficent.

the lack of activity on this post is most likely due to the fact that it is in the wrong place. Try the Items for sale and or needed. Good luck

:classic: TO ALL REMEMBER THE ANTI SIEZE .:classic:

I have a web page for you . geocities.com and check out the engine page .

Dont get the wrong idea as to what years are tested here in Oregon . After 25 years of age no further tests are done. What I was saying before was that if you were required to test , this is how it was done here in Or.

first of all where is , A PLACE ? Can you afford $600 to $1000 to have a car shipped to you ? Some advise on rebuilding a Z. If you need to ask as to what the cost of parts is going to be . You will be better off finding a clean Mustang . The days of doing one of these cars on the cheep is past. Sorry your about 3 or 4 yrs late. Unless you are a acomplished welder and or vary mechanical with deep pockets and you still want a Z . Spend $5 or $6k and find a Z that is in good shape and go from there. There are some out there still. Now I am referring to the classic Zs. I hope I have saved you some dissapointment and cash. I am sorry if I come off blunt but these are the facts , the days of the $500. driver are gone. Unless you want to dump a ton of money into one.

havent seen the pics. but one might be the crankcase vent with the PCV .

get a can of chevy engine orange , it is so close you cannot tell the difference. :classic: that is for the air cleaner not the car color

My personal openion of the 350 z is it is ugly with a capitol U . The interior is cramped , For 30 large I can find a lot more car , maby not as quick around a corner but looking one hell of a lot better. I will give them that , they are quick and handel fine , just dont look at the windows of the stores as you pass , for your reflection , it spoils the ride. sorry thats my 2c

I really think that it is from jacking the car . A possability here is the ' H ' shaped lifts that are used by some tire dealers. I have seen them use blocks on the front pads so the lift clears the tranny. Not on my car but on others. I had the same raised areas on my car as escanlon said and I could see that a combination of runing over a concrete parking bumper and the use of a floor jack was the cause. I could see scrape marks when I stripped the paint and undercoating. The dents were in the pan about 4 to 6 " back from the start of the upward tilt or the floor. I just pounded the floor down on the drivers side and replaced the floor on the pasinger side. It was rusted too badly.

Aaron it's like Mike stated. Condition is the key. You must step back and look at the car from a byers stand point . What is the body like is it stock or is there a sun roof or wales tail installed. Is there ANY body damage ? When you look inside are there any rips or tears in the seats or door pannels. When you pull up the carpets in the foot wells and see the bare floot is it rusty? What shape is the dash in are there any cracks ? Is all the glass clear or is it starting to fogg along any of the edges ? Are there any bumps or bubbles in the paint , along the bottom of the front fender just forward of the doors ? Is the chrome in good shape , no visable rust or dents ? What wheels are on the car mags , or what and tires are they just street tires or performance rated ? Is the trans stock 4 speed manual , later model 5 speed or an automatic ? Engine compartment, look under the battery tray at the inner fender and the frame below the batt. , is there ANY rust? Is the engine stock and has it been rebuilt or modified ? If so what was done and how many miles back and who did the work? Has the car been repainted , is the engine bay a different color than the rest of the car? Is the engine bay clean , or dirty? Pull the dip stick is the oil clear or black, if an auto trans is the oil clear and odor free? Start at $12k for new cond and start deducting. I could go on but must be breef here good luck .Gary

Sure is different here in Oregon. The car is put on a dyno and run up to speed and over a program of up and down to measure the enissions from the exhaust as the rpm go up and down. Of cource if the car fails there is no cost and no license , untill all is taken care of. I ran by truck throu 4 times before I got it to pass.

This backfire is it from the exhaust or from the carbs? If form the carbs , it could vary will be a lean pop . If from the exhaust it could be too rich.:classic: Which I doubt if it was adjusted to pass emissions it wont be rich.

you can buy a few $8 to $10. units from the local parts store if you want . I was told over 3 yrs ago to not bother and get one form Nissan which I did and have not had any further trouble. Check with one of our sponcers midwestz and see what Chloe can do for you. She saved me some serious $ on dist. rebuild parts. and all are OEM. Gary:classic:

Do you do this at your shop ? :classic:

I don't know where your part of the world is as you decided to not include this in your profile. But your expectations seem a lot high with your L-24 .:tapemouth

MariaAZ , dident you post in the past that you were to have to pass all the smogg tests ? If this is so you will most likely need to keep all the emissions equipment on the car and in working order .:classic:

Did you remove all the tar matt that was installed from the factory on the floors. If you havent then you dont know what rust is hiding under the matt. POR is the best rust protection material but it must be applied as the maker says exactly. As was stated before applying POR in the rocker channels is a vary good idea and if shot in with a siphon gun so much the better. These areas "breathe" so if you seal the holes after a rust preventitive it should not be a problem. :classic: