beandip

Finding the bottom end of these engines to be in good shape seems to be common. These are vary good engines and will run will over 200K and will do it before a rebuild if taken care of and not abused. Good luck with the project. This is a great time to learn and spend time with your dad at the same time. Great for the both of you. :classic:

Chloe has rebuilt units if you need one. I just replaced the insides of my '79 dist. It ended up costing me about 2/3 the cost of a rebuilt one from midwestz.com . This is with out a module. If I remember correctly about $70.00 I think she can get all the parts if you want to go that route. What I have found is that the braker plate goes bad , the plastic holders for the ball berrings that are sandwitched between the two disks fail and the ball fall out. this desables the vacume advance for the most part and there are parts flying around when they fall down into the weights spinning below. Then all sorts of bad things happen. Bottom line with a bone yard unit is that the plate is still 25 or so old and the heat has been working on the plasticparts. I bought a secound dist and it had a bad plate also.

You could be 180 degrees out , this may be why you hear firing out of the exhaust. Remember the engine could be at top dead center and not on a compression stroke ! And yes the cam timing could be off but check the timing first . What I do is pull the plugs and turn the engine with a socket on the crank with my finger on the plug hole . You will know when the compression stroke is and then shine a light in the hole or insert a length of copper wire so you can see the movement to TDC. Then start her up. :classic:

I was having electrical problems in my '73 comming from PO cobbing up the wireing. Things like the elect fuel pump would continue to run as well as the engine , if I turned off the ignition with the head lights still on. Just little things like that . My friend and I removed the entire wire loomb completely and I am replacing it with a good one that has not been chopped into. From a parts car. Because the Z is not my sole trans. and I have a garage to work in this helps. Some times when people start trying to modify these cars and they really dont know what they are doing it can all go to hell in a hand basket. Hang inthere and do things right. Keep youre eyes on the prize . When your done you will have a beautiful car unlike the bloted new ones that are now being stuffed down our gullets. Did the Euro. Zs have the flat top carbs ? If so dump them . All the best to you . Gary I would send a picture but I dont want to depress you any farther . , on secound thought it might cheer you up , since I have so far to go before my Z is road worthy.

Zeiss150 I tried to post last night but was having trouble with the PC. From your description , it sounds to me like there are more than one thing going on. First check the plug wires to be sure they are in the right fireing order. Secound check the timing with a timing light , you said the eingine will run right ? If these things check out . Cam timing is my next thought . Only if you had the head off , or the timing chain off. As for the deiseling , this could be from a rich fuel mixture. Are you running SUs or what? Often the poping back thru the carbs is from a lean situation , but with the deiseling and spraying fuel , not likely. Another thought . What dist. are you using ? There could be a malfunction in a module of an electronic dist. All together it sounds to me like ignition coupled with a rich mixture , check the float levels , if they are set too high this could cause the richness also make sure the chokes are adjusted correctly so that they are off when the lever is all the way forward . Also in this area , see that they are not sticking open . If when you touch the mixture adjustment knob of the carb it snaps up or clicks up a little , this could be the fuel problem. This is about all I can think of . All the best , Gary

I got an email from a guy that said the Isuzu Implse uses a hinge gasket that is vary close and will work. I have to find a dealer to call to see if they have any to look . He said that he thought '80---'83 . If any one checkes it out before I have a chance ,post it. I will just as soon as I can . Thanks Guys ,Gary:classic: Up date . They are from a '83 and are still available . I havent seen them in person but have ordered a set and they will be in on Friday the are just under $30.00 for the set. They come right and left . This is all I know , I have mine and one is intact with a little hole but the rubber is not too good. Good enough to be able to compare . I will let everyone know what I find out. :classic:

What I said in my first post was to use either PB Blaster of Kroil on the rusted nut and threads . I still stand by it , if you soak it and leave it set for an hour or so and give it a try . If it is still stuck soak it again . you may have to do it several times and maby let it set over night . In all the rusted bolts and nuts I have had to pull apart I have only had one that it dident work. Heating it with a torch is of cource another option . I am still in Beaverton and will help if I can , that is is you are close. Gary

Killer . What I am talking about is the rubber seal that wraps around the hinge that keeps the water from entering the cup or space the hinge sets in the roof. It seals off the cavity. I dont have a dig. camera sorry . It fits over the hinge like a sock .They are made of rubber that is less than 1/16'' thick. gema I went to midwestz first thing as was in my first post here. But thanks any way. OZ man I'll take a look at e bay thanks. I have been looking I must have missed it.

If you go to the tec section there is a step by step walk through on how to do this. When you lift the piston, this does disable the carb and the engine is running on the other one, if the engine dies that carb is too lean , if it stumbles but continues to run its ok. If on the other hand continues to run smoothly it is too rich. Adjust it accordingly and repeat the whole thing on the secound one. So you lift the piston on the rear carb and adjust the front one . Then lift the front piston and adjust the rear one .Read the teck "how to " and it covers lean pop as well. Gary:classic:

I have done some floor pan replacement on my 240 . You should check with charley Osborne at zed findings . He makes the pan I used and has top quality stuff. I dont know about stuff for a ZX but its worth a check. I used POR to treat the rust and all bare metal after sand blasting . There is another product call Rust Bullet sold by Eastwood I think. It is supposed to be as good and easier to work with . I havent tried the stuff but I know the POR and elected to use it. zedfind@kos.net is Zedd Findings.

NO Bill not the glass rubber , the HINGE rubber seal, It's like a cup that completely covers the hinge up inside the roof.

As was already stated there is no advantave with the turbo block. The blocks are the same . Its the pistons. The F-54 block is the latest evelution of the inline 6 for Nissan and supposidly the strongest. :classic:

I am in need of a pair of rubber seals . They are the rubber seal that wraps around the hinges on the rear hatch of a 240. I have tried the local dealer and midwestz . Help if you can or if you know of a place I could contact . I have a email into Charlie Osborne . .thanks

Damn , I hope so ! This about the same thing I am installing , only I went with the P-79 head and milled it .030 for about 9.5 but I dident over bore. Let me know how things work out for you . I should be up and running the latter part of May. I am doing the body now and soon as the weather is right will paint. This is what is holding me up. The Z is a rolling shell at present . GaryROFL

if you have a compressor I have one that works with a air hammer let me know . I am in beaverton. Gary

I have installed the floor ,pans from Zed findings and my openion they are the best and recommend them. They are strong and fit with little fitting required. yes you can most likely find a cheeper way to go , but not better. If you want cheep cut the floor out of an old rust bucket for your rust bucket. If yu want to do it right then look into ZED FINDINGS . With the rust being the most deadly problem with these cars , curing the problem correctly should be a nobrainer. my 5c :classic:

Buy the way , great picture. Looks like the rest of the underside is clean . I see that you are in Oregon , I am in the ptln area , if you are close I have a couple of " pickle forks'' if you want to borrow one . I have one that works with a air hammer you can use if you have air compresser. There is a pair of tie rod ends on ebay right now for around $40.00 .

Well this is what their called, for lack of another term. they are two disks seperated by ball bearings , one is attached to the vacume advance . These balls are held in place with plastic keepers, after 30 years of heat they usually fail and the balls fall out. This alters the advance curve. There are counter weights mounted below these plates , which when they spin with the main shaft also effect the timing and take over the job of the vacume advance, as the engine speeds up. You will note that there are numbers stamped on the counter weight assembly. These denote weather the springs and assembly is set up for an automatic or manual trans. If you take the dist to a ignition specialest to have the advance curve changed , these springs are what is changed . Allowing the ignition to advance the timing at what ever RPM you want . Hope this helps. Gary , by the way I sent midwestz a email last night and received a reply this morning. They are still there .:classic:

I don't know about Texas but here in Or you have some time to contact the Ins. Co when you buy a car. It's a few days and maby as much as a week . Get on the phone asap and as escanlon said dont be too quick to sigh this off. You wont be dealing with stupid people here , this is what they do day in and day out. Best of luck , sorry for the bent car. They may want to just total it , remember to them it is just an old car. :classic:

Bill , I would like to give you some advise that I hope you listen to. Forget the idea of doing a over haul yourself. You are getting in over your head here. I praise you for having the ambition to do it , but it is obvious form the questions and answers you have that you need much much more experience. You should keep an eye on ebay and find a Nissan shop manual , this is the most important tool that you should be looking for. You are looking to be spending some serious bucks here , and if one thing is done wrong it could be serious and ruin everything you have worked on. There is no way to know what parts you are going to need , or the sizes , untill you dissamble the engine. If you do go with a new cam you must also replace the rocker arms and lash pads as well . Valve seals and a valve grind also. Depending on the head you may need hardened valve seats. The cam is cheep , it's all the other stuff that gets costly.

The breaker plate was $45.53 Stator was $12.63 the pick up coil is $38.06 compare with the local dealer's prices. Send me a pvt email gary

It looks like the boot is torn . Take a close look at them , if there are any holes in them repace them. Get some PB Blaster and soak the rust on tie rod adjustment nut . This will help to make the job easier. how do you know the tie rod ends are bad ? is there looseness and movement in the end? When you jack up the front is there play there ? If so you are on the right track. Buy the way midwest number is 316-706-1601 I am going to try the email address and see if I can get through . Gary

Sounds like you just need to let the engine warm up . Untill it does it requiers a richer mixture of fuel this is why the choke is used , or suposed to be used. As for the trans. there are no "belts" in the trans. If it is slipping then you need to find a good trans. repair shop. One thing that might help you with the off the line stumble is to use 20wt oil in the carbs. this will cause the piston in the carb to rise just a slight bit slower allowing for a richer mixture of fuel . This is only for a instant but enough to cure a lean mixture start stumble. One thing , just because the temp gague reads in the the middle , this is only a reading at the sensor at the thermostat and is not necessarly tilling you that the engine is at normal running temp. It takes a while to warm the entire engine , use the choke untill the engine no longer needs it. You will find that as the engine warms you can slowly move the choke leaver foward untill the engine is at temp and the choke is off completely.

your going to find that you are about 2 years to late to find 240s in the bone yards with gas caps. You can tighten the set on the gas cap by bending the " contact ears " down just a little .

If you go the the tech. page and scroll down there is a how to on SU adjustment. Step by step. :classic: