beandip

If you start raising the compression where are you going to find the fuel with a high enough octain to keep from detonation? You can use booster but that will be a real pain in the butt for a driver. Sure you can up the compression and all of that how ever as bambikiller said this is a turbo your dealing with and even '' bullet proof'' Z engines can look like a gernade on a bad day. As what was offered before , look to the boost and maby a inter cooler and hot ignition and cam and 2 1/2 exhoust. 2 cts.

You talk about doing this and that. Do you have a garage to do the work if you do get into it? Post an enquire to other members in your area that can take a look for you. From the pics you show a frame rail at least is in order. Do you have tools ? If you remove the front fenders you will expose a great deal of the potential areas . When you do remove the seats and carpet you need to be able to see the sheet metal under the tar matt. The matt will hide the rusted floor, also look under the car at the floors and probe with a screw driver if there is under coating. Look closely in the areas just to the rear of the door jams down low , these are the ''dog legs'' , look to see if there is rust or bubbleing paint . Use a magnet and see if it is bondo filled. This whole project may not be as bad as you think. She is a good looking Z and surely worth what you paid. Even if the worst case is true you are not in too deep. At the vary least you have a great parts car. The more preperation you can do the less expence you will have to have others do the welding. By some PB Blaster for freeing rusted bolts. this stuff is a must , this and antiseiz whin you put things back together. All the best . Gary

There is a book that you must find. '' HOW TO RESTORE YOUR DATSUN Z-CAR '' by Wick Humble . This and a Nissan shop manual . These two books will be vary important to the success of your project. Also there is a site of interest to you geocities.com/zgarage.2001/ I found my copy of resstore at Amazon.com 4 yrs ago I think they may still be in print. It's a Fisher book

look at the top of the dist. cap and trace the plug wire that connects to the plug that is further most to the front of the engine. This is # 1 the dist turns in a counter clock wise direction so the next wire should go to the 5th plug back from the front and so on the fireing order is as follows 1 , 5 , 3 , 6 , 2 , 4 . hope this helps . Gary

Partially correct. The vacume advance comes into play at lower RPMs. When the engine is turning in the 500 to 2000 range the mechanical advance hasent advance enough to provide the needed advance for power if you open the throttle , so the vacume advance takes over and provides the need advance. As soon as the RPM increase the mechanical systime takes over and provides what is needed. This is done with the springs and counter weights in the dist. . This advance curve can be adjusted with the use of different strength of springs. This needs to be done with the aide of a machiene that calabrates the this curve. This is what Biker was refering to , I believe.

I have read the info . but cannot varify the numbers . I have looked in my library and cannot find the sorce. However the total advance is , as I remember , achived at about 1600 RPm and is 13degs. So with a 10 deg. BTDC setting your total would be 23deg. The Centrifugal advance starts at about 500 rpm . I am using a later ZX dist. and I may be confusing the numbers slightly but this is close. I set my ignition on both the older 240 systime and the new one a 10 degs BTDC with no pinging . On your D6f3-01 dist. 1600 Rs you are maxed at 13 degs. I just found the figures in the book.

you know Son, I took the injector cleaner for granted also, I dump a thing of the cleaner in the Camery every third tank or so. Keeps them clean. I just dident think of it. Enjoy the ride. Gary Good luck on the other build , let me know from time to time . Gary

I used PPGs paint and am vary satisfied

Jesse, when you had the cap off did you check the terminals inside the cap for deposits as well ? If there are just scrape them clean with a knife or other sharp tool. Another place to look is at the plug wires where they plug into the top of the cap. Pull one out and see if it's clean inside , do this to all 6 but one at a time so you don't mix them up. I know that is basic but I have known people that have done it . If the plug wires are good and all the connections are as well , being it is an injected engine I cannot help any ferther. Sorry But from what you describe it does sound like ignition. Gary

Woah here stop bouncing around and settle down to one thing at a time and think this through. was the engine running ok before you made the swap ? If yes , did you pull the carbs off the manifold ? did you remove the dist form the engine ? Are you used to driving a car that has a manual choke ? These engines if tuned correctly will barely run when cold with out the choke on. They will , in most cases , refuse to even start without the choke. Leave the choke on and run the idle up to about 900 rpm and let warm up. As the engine warms you will find that you can ease off on the choke a little by little.This may take 10 or 15 min. Once at normal temp THEN you can adjust the carbs. If you ''blip'' the gas like to raise the rpms quickly before it is warmed a back fire is expected , it's a lean pop . Go to the tec page and make a surch for adjusting SUs. If you have been trying to adjust the carbs already chances are they are all out of sinc. Follow the step by step instructions. It is really quite simple. If you have a timing light see what the timing shows you , set it at 10deg BTDC , at about 700rpm and with the vacume advance disconnected , and pluged. You will need a uni-sun to ballance the carbs air intake. The white smoke is most likely just from attempting start the engine . It should clear in a few mins. Before you try to fine tune the carbs , just get it running reasonably well and see to the timing then finish the carbs. If you had the carbs all apart then it could be anything. Float level to high , the needles set wrong in the piston and or bent , the jet set to shallow or to deep. the butterfly leaking air. I think you said you had a set that you hadent gotten into , if this is so put them on and adjust them.

Walter That really makes me chuckle . Just climbing into a early Z is steping back in time ! HELLO . Dont get me wrong I love my Z , The styling the sound and the way she performs. But it is old tec from one end to the other. A manual trans is old tec as well. So SU carbs fit right in to the whole package. There VARY simple and work well. Just my 2 cts. Gary

The vacume port the arrow points to is where the vacume advance from the dist is supposed to connect. If you have a vacume advance , it MUST work form carb vacume otherwise it goes to full advance when the engine is started and is inoperative. You mentioned that you have a stock air cleaner and that the Z is a '73 . The air cleaner that you want is from a '72 the stock '73Z had flat top carbs and were completely different both the carbs and the air box were .

I BELIEVE IT IS POSSABLE. I WATCHED A TWIN TURBO SUPURA PULL 740 HP AT THE REAR WHELLS ON A DYNO AND HE DID IT TWICE THE SECOUND TIME 741. THIS WAS ON PUMP GAS , BUT RACING FUEL. I know , it's a different breed of cat but still it is an inline 6 and that is a lot of ponies.

Son, I don't know anything of the towns in Ga. and I dont know where this shop is in relation to where you live ,but here is the name of a Shop that has been spoken vary highly of on the list.. Eddie Radatz is the owner ERadatz Motorsports in Marietta Ga. 770 926 6621 He is supposed to be the Z guru in the area . You might just have a Z specialest have a look . Before you jump into this. Gary Keep us informed .

zap, here is a site for you to look over . I think you will gain a ton of good information there. geocities.com/zgarage2001/ look over the cylinder head section and the performance tips as well. Gary :bandit:

One thing to consider is a pressure switch ahead of the oil pressure sensor that will activate the fuel pump above about 7 psi. this way the pump will always shut off if the engine does or looses pressure. With carbs it will start on the fuel in the float chambers. a remote kill switch can also be wired in as a security measure as well. Gary

That's great ! Don't feel bad you arnt the first one to do this. Gary

First of all , are you aware that the engine is supposed to lean towards the right when you are sitting in the car. It must tilt to clear the hood. I have a picture of the front of my car with the hood removed and you can see that it sits on a angle. If need be I will send the picture , just contact me with a PM I just looked at the pictures and I have pictures of the engine with the mounts attached as I was installing it and it shows the proper mounts on each side.

There the same engine , it's just the L-28 has a 260 crank and a larger bore. If the 280 engine is a F-54 block it has flat top pistons unless it is a turbo engine Then it will have dished pistons like all the rest of the 280 engines. I think you will need to change fuel tank and lines to use the injection also.

For one thing the AC pump is a good pump if you can stand the noise. The stock electric and the one from the early '80s RX- 7 are turbine pumps and are pusher pumps and work the best near the tank and they are quiet. Always install a inline filter before the pump, they run at high speed and crud really messes them up. There is stock wireing on the '72 for a electric pump . you will find it wound up and taped with blue tape , just follow the sending unit wire up the side of the tank. I would remove the screens from the entake of the carbs and leave them out. I am running a electric only on my Z and have no problem. On another note try 20w in the carbs the 5w of the atf is too thin and can cause a lean condition off the line. Just for a split secound. By the way you should be able to find a RX-7 pump at the bone yard for about $15.00. I have tried this pump on a tripple set up and no problem , they put out right at 4psi. If you do the RX pump be sure it is from a carbed car not injected! my2c Gary

I know escanlon can help there , send him a email.

As these cars age this will be more and more the case. Find a early Z ,from '70 thru '73 for a intake manifould get all the linkage . The '73 could have the flat tops , DONT get these but the intake and linkage from the carbs back is good. The intake manifold is a direct bolt on and think about new needles , SMs, for the carb. because of the added CCs of the L-28 . The air cleaner from '70--'73 is the one . It has horns inside that are tuned for the proper length for the ram effect. One more thing get the bake-a-lite insulater ''gaskets'' that fit between the carb and the intake manifold. The correct ones are about 1/2'' thick. 3 screw and 4 screw SUs perform the same so either are good. I have a extra set of carbs if you need them . I see them on ebay all the time. Dont wait too long because like you people I think more and more are going this route. Get the choke leaver and cable to.

Check for vacume leaks . Make sure all the vac hoses are connected like for the brake booster and such , and do check the plug wires and the fireing order. The vacume advance does not adjust.

Check later posting u-joint replacement was all gone over.

One more thing IMPORTANT !! Be sure to lube the u-joint. At the factory the bearings in the caps are greased only to hold the needle bearings in place the rest of the u-joint is dry so give the fitting some grease just intell you see the rubber seal start to swell and stop. If more grease is applied you can blow out the seal and the joint will throw grease out.