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Inspired by a recent wiper blade refill conversation, I thought I share something I found: The refill rubber I found on Amazon and seems to be a common size. The FOUR 26" blades cost me $5.60 - or $1.40 each - they are obviously Chinese. https://www.amazon.com/PLUS-Windshield-Automotive-Replacement-Adjustable/dp/B0BYJC45QS/ref=sr_1_3?nsdOptOutParam=true&s=automotive&sr=1-3 These stainless steel "ribs" are from a Trico 47-800 "Break To Fit" blade refill kit I bought some time ago. I never used it (until now) because the rubber didn't fit the Z blades. (Trico also makes a 6mm 47-600 that looks to have similar ribs and may entirely fit - but - I only know that these ribs work with the refill rubber shown below.) Once you have the stainless steel ribs you should be able to replace the rubber indefinitely. I have 4, gonna buy 4 more at that price. They obviously can be trimmed in length a little better - I just used one of the standard break marks of the Trico steel. They fit snuggly and move freely as you flex the blade. If it ever rained here in Arizona, and if I actually took my 260Z OUT IN THE RAIN (which I generally avoid!) I could tell you how they perform in the wet... Maybe someday it'll happen.

Hmmm... The basic concept they used is the same for all the years, but I believe the gauge I used for the pics is from a 77 280Z.

All the parts still have some value. Some like to date match their cars. A jack from 1970 would start with with a P and a 71 would start with a Q. All fun knowledge about these cars.

Looks like you might have some weather to contend with over the next few days for driving. It would be fun to hear the exhaust note and the sound of those horns breathing. It has been fun watching the build! We played Bonner Ferry and also the course up in Creston when we had a condo in Sandpoint. There's another course we played that's on the road heading east from Sandpoint that was called Hidden Lakes but I think the name has been changed. Oh and there was the afternoon sitting in the "husband" area of the Coldwater Creek store, I was almost thinking my wife got lost in the store.

I have a couple of nice ones, will get a shipping box and get one out to you.

For you that have been following along. My 3.12L is finally in my car and home. Gosh it looks so good I’m just going to stare at it! Amazing work by Andrew Kazanis! This engine was built and done prior to a shop fire. So it’s been through a lot! I love the contrast of the stock blue block and gold zinc and black. It features. My 3.1L 10.2:1 compression ratio 88.5mm bore. N42 block. Sonic tested. LD crank by marine crankshaft. Crank �Off-set grind to 84.6 stroke�Finish rod journals @ 1.8889" Thrust Finish 1.27”�R & R plugs with threaded plugs�Dynamic Balance�Ion-Plasma nitride, straighten & micro-Micro polish all journals E31 head. Port work by Andrew Kazanis Dsi valves Diameter: 45/36.5mm Length: 118mm, titanium retainers. Isky springs. Bonk cam. Roughly stock exhaust and intake port sizes. Vapor honed inside and out. Rebello JE Eagle pistons and toyota rods 221 CFM flow at .45-.5 lift. Mine is 88.5x88.5x.25x3.14159x 84.6x6 /1000 = 3122cc It is showing off my intake design and Efi throttle bodies as well as a bunch of my small parts.

One very common culprit is the hazard switch. It is the central clearing house that affects turn and hazard signal functions. Try cycling it several times (like 20) and see if the symptoms change or if the problem solves itself. Remove it and open it to clean the 8 contacts

@Patcon Charles, this style is a match for mine - original to my car. Pretty sure the heat riser was added several months prior to our builds. Jim

They're less than ten bucks - buy some and let the rest of us know if they can be used with all the original hardware.

Did you check to see if you have continuity going from the connector on the exterior of the horn through to the inside? A common place to lose it is here, under this rivet head. That is not a washer, it's corrosion.

Sounds like Jim is your man then Charles. I think my early ones are more dented than rusted.

In the interim I'd be glad to have any without big rust holes in it

The oil pressure and temp gauges share a regulator (one reg inside that instrument case) and the fuel gauge has it's own. The ammeter and/or volt gauges do not use a regulator. Details about how the regulator(s) works: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/67803-how-the-gauges-work/

The stamp looks like WAH which would be a 1977 / Jan 8th jack. (With Kats, dating system) It also has 4 rivets on the bottom indicating a later jack. The early 70 - 71 jacks only had 2 rivets. The over all length is shorter on the later jacks as well.

This one shows mid 71 which I am more inclined to believe. The transmission change came with a lot of other changes.

I'd really like to know the answer to that myself. Unfortunately I don't have any old blades to peal the rubber off of. I'd like to try that though. Send me your old ones! 🤪

Not electrically - can't be - as the screws that hold the two halves together are not electrically isolated.

I got my Datsun Z Car Series Oil Sending Unit Relocation / Remote Block done! I have only one for sale now, but more are on order. I am pretty proud of this design. Three outlet remote oil sending unit block. Metal 3D printed out of aluminum to look stock and mimics the 240z, 260z and 280z brake proportioning block design. Block has 3 outlets, all are 1/8 NPT. Comes with a custom length -3AN hose and one 1/8 NPT -3AN fitting and either a 1/8 BSPT or 1/8 NPT for the engine block side of the hose. Stock sending unit on a 240z is BSPT, this will require a NPT sending unit like this. [https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137](https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137) No sending units come with this order. Pictures of sending units are just for reference. Link: https://www.m2racing.com/shop/p/datsun-z-car-series-oil-sending-unit-relocation-remote-block

Here's a pic of one of the gauges. You can see the two different heating coils wrapped around two different "U" shaped bimetallic strips. Interesting to note that internets research indicates that "U" shape is part of the compensation as well. The concept is that the unheated side will compensate some for changes in ambient temperature. "They say" it doesn't get rid of all of the temperature based effects, but it helps some. Between that "U" shape and the compensation stage, the gauges seem to be really stable. So this is an example of the compensated gauge with the two stages: And here's a closer-upper pic of the compensation stage showing it's parts: The switch opens and closes to keep the temperature of the compensation strip at a constant temperature (ave). If you put a Voltmeter on the sender unit, you'll see that it isn't a steady voltage, but is instead a square wave.