Leaderboard

There's all kinds of testing you can do, you've missed some and some have missed you but you have gone ahead and shot the parts cannon at it for no reason. There's ways to test the spark at the plug and check resistance at the coil. "We" would like nothing other than your problems resolved and ending this, FYI. It may be as simple as the distributor cap and worn rotor button?

I don't know .. but it sure makes ME Twitchy!! 😁 (Yeah i know it's only me that does not like pertronix under the hood! The only place for it is in the BIN!)

Bummer. Here's hoping that whatever path forward you choose, it goes smoothly and that's the end of the issues.

I ran across this on e-bay for $136 w/ shipping and was wondering if its worth picking up to aid in keeping the engine compartment cool. I have an early 260z but I suspect this design for the 280z matches. If I sand it down and if it fits in the powder coat oven, I think I can make it look nice for the cones I drive over in Autocross.

Car has run beautifully all the way out to Columbus, OH. about 600 miles so far, mostly 65-70 highway speeds. It has consumed about 1/2 quart oil, which I haven't seen in local/mixed highway driving. Couple of the Fiat race cars at the Fiat Meet One of the older techs at the shop was previously a Volvo guy, and has a 90 740 16V wagon he wants to move out of his garage where it has been stored for th past 18 years. I may have to buy it Needs the head re-installed - he is now physically unable to do the work, hence the desire to see it go to another Volvo guy.

That's cheap for that one. Get it! I paid more 20 years ago. Get it powder coated.

From what we have seen that wasn’t the problem. Someone suggested you check the chokes that was all. You’re going to need a meter and start testing the ignition system and go from there IMO. If number 4 is fouling concentrate on that. #4 plug wire. #4 contact inside and outside the cap etc. etc.

Fuel fire and air You have the fuel checked off, it's good. You have the air filter housing off so no restrictions there. You should focus on the fire or electrical now that all 6 are black and sooty. It could be a loose wire since all of the sudden the spark plugs went black. Did it not start running bad all at once? It should have after looking at the before plugs and the newest pictures. Have a good weekend.

Good for him! That was a good price.

I sent the link to a Seattle friend who had mentioned he was looking for door cards. He ended up buying these for $600.

I'm with @KenFirch I did the headers. I went the 6to1 ceramic coated headers from MSA with 2.5inch exhaust all the way back. The air pump location is a great place to mount a sanden A/C compressor. EDIT: For the exhaust I just went to a local shop and had them build it. I got a Magnaflow resonator and Magnaflow Muffler and am quite please with the result. No problem with ground clearance, it's tucked in nicely.

Don't touch it if you don't have trouble starting it in cold weather.

Doesn’t sound like you have a choke problem. I have been following the thread and you might want to go back and look what others have suggested concerning the ignition?

Here's a couple of reference pics for you. This is the PCV - Crankcase breather hose in place and the valve cover - air filter hose hanging loose at the top. In this pic the valve cover - air filter hose is connected. Look just to the left of the front carb and you will see a port on the back of the air filter with a black cover. That port is for a hose to the smog pump. When the pump is deleted, the air filter port needs to be blocked. That is the 1" chair leg cover that @siteunseen referred to.