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This past weekend, I only had a few hours available to work on the car. I finished up the kick panels and I installed the gas tank. Installing the gas tank by oneself is quite the challenge. Since my main fuel hose is 53 plus years old, I had to heat it with a heat gun to get it to be flexible for the installation. Heating it, and then trying to lift the gas tank into place and secure the tank straps... is difficult to do by oneself. On the third try, I was successful! And, since I knew from previous experience that without protective padding in various places, everything gets scratched to hell, I made sure to protect everything by taping into place (covering the bottom edges of both the tail light panel and quarter panel) pieces of thick padding. This protects from bumps and scrapes while attempting to maneuver the tank where it needs to go to feed the inlet to the main hose. The finished kick panels - note that the factory finish is flat black - not semi-gloss black: Gas tank:

A member at Zcar.com was a little miffed about receiving his purchase from Harmon Resto. This is what he ordered: https://harmonresto.com/products/usb-charger-cig-delete-kit-w-volt-meter. After a brief search on Amazon, it wasn't hard to find a source for the USB ports: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Outlet-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Charger/dp/B098KD2G8F. Harmon doesn't even bother to leave the inline fuse on it, but they make up for it by marking up the price significantly. So if you really want these, reach out to me. Drop ship the Amazon one to me. (Suggestion: Get this one and you'll have 3 ports. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1WJ3W5X) I'll replace the ring lugs with bullets for you and charge you shipping. I love it when business support the hobby, but I don't like it when they mark up products 300% in the process.

I whipped up a quick sketch to help explain what I was talking about above: Also, I'm not too far away from Lancaster, PA. If you do go forward with this, I could possibly be used as boots on the ground locally if necessary.

This weekend i was at a swiss Archive place of automotive history. The source of many Experts which judge historic cars and make the FIVA ID cards (hsitoric vehicle authenticity proof), etc.. A very nice place. I was suprised however to find a book about Nissan where goertz has signed the cover during a visit. I forgot to take a photo, sadly, but will visit again. Obviously the experts (in this case they were judges and cars-selectors at all the major global concours d'elegance, so they definitely have some knowledge about historic cars and designers, but the usual lack of japanese cars knowledge) had the opinion that Goerzt designed the 240Z. I collected a few documents to tell them the truth. During my hunt for a few things to prove it, i realized that the original signed letter by Nissan has never been broadly published. Only a transcript of it, without theofficial header, signature, etc. So here we go. It can be found in the german book "Autos die geschichte machen - Datsun Nissan Z-ZX-ZXT" I wouldn't say the book covers the story fully correct, but at least the copy of the original letter is nice: Special thanks to Florian for reminding me where i can find it in my documents 🙂 Also Florian has researched a lot on this topic and you can find all about Goertz and the Z (and involvment in other cars he claimed to be his design) on his special readworthy website only about this topic: http://www.graf-goertz.de/

Parked next to a Wildcat after the Dr's yesterday

Ah this is sad news.. He was an active member here in the past. I remember him fondly. Blessings go out to his family. Rest well, and drive that perfect Z in heaven my friend.

Had to use a little heat on the fuel filler neck to get it off, but managed to get the tank dropped. It looks like someone tried to coat the inside, but didn't do the best job and there's a bunch of rust in it so I'm probably going to just restore the whole thing while I'm at it. In other good news, poked around at calibrating the fuel level gauge and I think I'll be able to get that into a more accurate spot.

I have reached the point of not giving my Z the attention it deserves, so putting it on the market after almost 20 years. It is an early Series 1, vin #1399, and a January 1970 build. It runs exceptionally well, and nothing needs to be done to turn the key and enjoy the open road! Much love, time and money have been invested in this beauty, so the next owner will have the benefit of a fine touring machine! Please look at my classified ad for pics and an overview. I have more details and pics upon request. I want to take this time to thank the many individuals on this site who provided their expertise, judgement and ideas to helping me fix, improve and upgrade my Z. There are so many existing and former members who have inspired me over the last 20 years to make my car the best, and it is most appreciated! Members like Arne, Captain Obvious, Chickenman, 240260280 (Phil), Mark Maras, Zsondabrain, and so many more that I am forgetting or missing. Please understand I appreciate all of you for your help and patience as well! I will continue to visit this site and hope that all of you continue to enjoy the journey with your Z, whether on the road or in your garage! Happy trails!

Seems like you're implying that your fuel filter was clogged. But in Post #36 you said you got 39 psi. ??? I assume that gauge was between the filter and the fuel rail. Might be that you had a vacuum leak at an injector or two and you fixed them when you removed and replaced the injectors. Wahtever it was, good luck with it. On to the next problem...

The rubber seal as added to the 1973 240Z's.

Don’t be so quick to bash the vendor. What did that guy think he was buying for $50? A hand made, custom designed one of kind bespoke wonder device with gold trim? Maybe he’s never looked at the near infinite supply of 100’s varieties of a 1000 such automotive products on Amazon and thought this was a nice custom piece for his Z and decided, on his own, to spend his money as he saw fit. Only after he realized what he bought, how cheap they are to buy himself, and how little value was actually added by Harmon, did he get indignant about it. Typical. Let the market decide if a product price is too high. Just buy the USB charger thingy that fits into your existing cig lighter hole and avoid the buy it or build it hassle completely.

Nice work. Looking quickly at the model, I've got a couple questions, etc. First, the small pilot holes for the mustache bar bolts might be trouble. I think those may be be too small and too fragile of a sand tower and will just snap off when they pull the master out of the sand. I would just make that surface flush, maybe leave a small locating dimple or something, but I'm not sure you're going to have good success casting those pilot holes. And... You're already going to have to drill all the mounting holes around the perimeter, so it's already going to be in the mill. Why not just locate those holes when you do everything else? Why do you need a pilot? Second, I can't tell from the master part if you've got draft on all the necessary surfaces. I'm assuming the foundry will look into that in detail. Last, hard to tell just from pics, but it looks like you might have an interference between the oil hole (fill hole?) and the internal cast rib. Maybe the fill plug hole misses that internal rib, maybe not? Can't quite tell.

I've looked at the tank and from what I can tell everything coming out of it is clean. I suppose it won't hurt for me to just take the feed line off and put it in a gas can, though. If the fpr isn't operative when the car is off, why does the manual say to test the fpr with the engine off? Genuinely curious, not trying to be sarcastic or anything.

Fpr is inoperative when the vehicle is off. I think I would start at the tank. You could rig up a temporary source of fuel instead of the tank. If the fuel pressure comes up, there is a problem in the tank

Well, It appears I had a lapse in memory. The receiving end of that bung does indeed point out to the side and not down. The replacement hose looks to be out of stock. So I'm off to source a brass coupler and a 1" hose to join them together. Also, I included a picture of just what that hose looked like coming off the car.

That's the PCV valve, not the BCDD. Yes, the PCV hose from the block to the PV is a specially formed hose. Yarb referred to it above. Small one end, big on the other. When things aren't tuned well the engine will often be non-responsive to tuning efforts. Kind of a vicious cycle, a rabbit hole. The missing and break up at higher PRM are probably due to the massive vacccum leak through the PCV valve under the intake manifold and also through the hole in the block. Air can enter the crankcase through the hole in the side of the block and travel through the engine to the intake manifold. You can either block the two PCV holes, or get the proper hoses connected. The EFI system will not work correctly with a partially intact system. .

What isn't mentioned in these recent observations is that the complete induction system - from the cylinder head out - was changed for the 73 model year. The carbs are one component of the complete system.

We have a high water table - I have a sump pump in the basement that operates much of the year, just less in the July/August time frame. That was the one that died just before we went to Baltimore & partially flooded the basement main area. I'm going to have to figure out what to do about the drainage behind the garage, however I don't want to get sidetracked on that right now, so I'm going to deal with the sill repair & siding, and leave the drainage until later on. Rained all day - so I got the receptacles wired (GFCI at the start of the run, shown earlier) & added a waterproof housing & switch for the new exterior door lighting Cover didn't arrive in time for me to add it before this pic This sucka is bright!

And it is much appreciated, Kats. Your presence and participation on classiczcars has been invaluable and a vital conduit to helping us understand the cars themselves, the history behind them and the people who created them. You are one of their best ambassadors. Thank you. It goes over a lot of heads but I've believe that, to properly appreciate and understand any single one of our cars, it is necessary to understand its siblings; the cars which were conceived, designed, engineered and produced alongside it. I own both RHD and LHD versions. Japanese market, UK market and USA market S30-series Z variants. Taking each one of them completely apart and going through the process of reassembly is both fascinating and educational. It is possible to observe the great efforts the designers and engineers went to in ensuring that each variant worked well whilst accommodating the other variants in their contemporary family. Look closely and you can see details that were incorporated in the fabric of the cars in order to cater for one particular market or one particular variant, hiding in plain sight. A good example being the preparation for factory air conditioning that was present on all models whilst it was only available in one of them. Most owners don't notice... Kats, we have discussed in the past how ownership of both Domestic and Export variants has helped both of us to understand and appreciate the cars more fully, right? It would be great if more owners and enthusiasts could share that experience or, if not, at least take note of the possibilities it offers.

Japanese People don’t care about cars which were sold outside of Japan. My US 240Z has never been invented to Nostalgic Hero magazine. I know some people still think it is a fake of S30. The average sales price is backing up what I am saying. A Fairlady-Z 2/2 is now pricing double or triple of an US 240Z. Am I sad looking at those things? Maybe. But anyway I have my beautiful US 240Z which makes me so proud. People living in overseas don’t care about Japanese Fairlady Z cars. I have seen a lot of people don’t like G-nose because simply it looks ugly to them. Also people don’t like 2- liters cars, Z432 is not an exception. People don’t need information because they don’t use it for their cars. That is why I am here, and my friends here. I want people to know whole range of our cars. I believe looking into various types of our cars make us fun to enjoy better. Kats

That's the attachment point for the towing bracket specific to the HS30-H model Fairlady 240ZG. The stock short nose towing bracket could not be used on the 240ZG (the lower section of the Grande Nose covered it) so the factory created a 240ZG-specific towing bracket which allowed the tow rope to pass through the nose:

William Stokes, aka @hls30.com, passed away yesterday. He had been battling some medical issues for a while. Now he gets to rest. Here he is on the left from a couple of years back when he went to lunch with a couple of my friends.