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Thanks grannyknot, didn't realize that that was the case. Hate to lose the sound deadener but I suspect you are correct as to it being a source of current/future rust problems. Trying to look on the bright side, I'm not just losing sound deadener, I'm gaining another project!!! Comment is much appreciated. Working on bumpers right now but will try and post what I find in a bit.

You can wire up the HEI module directly from the distributor wires and the coil power supply right next to the coil. Forget about the ballast resistor entirely, at least for a quick test. Or just use it as a terminal block. The HEI module is current limiting. The stock module is about 4.5 amps, I think, and the high performance ones about 7. But that's just at the beginning of the coil charging cycle. Should be fine. It's all about heat and you can touch the parts to see how they're doing.

Impressive level of detail. I originally intended to ask whether you have any pictures of what this kit looks like once fully assembled, but then I found this video on Youtube... I'm really impressed. These kits can be disappointing if the proportions are off. This one looks perfect. Except for the wheels...

Never throw them away😉

To be on the safe side you could/should chip up all of that original sound deadener, chance are you will find more than the couple you know about. That sound deadener was applied over top of bare metal.

@Namerow I saw your requested and just wanted to post the exactly same picture. so there you go. However looking at my pictures, it seems that my car came without a rear wing, overfenders and with the factory Steel-wheels with hubcaps. I have to see, maybe there are some option parts in there, going step by step. Today i got another thing i've been looking for for quite a while. Factory Nissan "Race and Rallye Preparation Manuals". The one on the right side is the "early" version which i had and wrote about already before, but the slighty thicker later version (on the left side), has always been missing in my collection. Luckily i stumbled upon a set of both recently, so i had to get it. The book describes how to prepare your S30 Fairlady Z, 240Z or Z432(-R), with some generic modifications and settings, but also using all kind of "Sports option" or Nissan "Competition" parts. The difference between the early and the later version is, the later versions has a few additional information about standard car parts and competition parts which were introduced after the first version got released, otherwise they're more or less the same. Before you ask. the double "early version" book is not for sale, it's already promised to someone. The third book i got is the "Private Club" LL型 (L-Gata / L-Series) Tuning book. Funnily "Carboy" later released a very similar book with almost the same photo. Not really sure if and how the two brands are related. It's all japanese with many photos and basically describing how to tune and modify your L-series engine for performance and reliability: It's split into different chapters such as block, head, carbs / intake, exhaust, etc.. Tomorrow i'm going to visit my bodyshop to check out the car. There are some rumors they started working on the car again... An'd im going to pick up something very cool and rare for my Friends C110 Kenmary Project which i found close to where i work. So expect some updates soon.

Brake fluid resistant o rings: https://satoriseal.com/epdm-o-rings/ Possible source: https://www.globaloring.com/product-category/o-rings-standard-sizes/epdm-o-rings-70-duro/ Also Grainger: https://www.grainger.com/category/hardware/o-rings-and-o-ring-kits/o-rings?attrs=O-Ring+Material|EPDM&filters=attrs&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2296:9JMEDM:20500731&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmvSoBhDOARIsAK6aV7hsgn4gz-ujED1fAZtebKNIUrXo8v9nFtvHkkFkzsinR_BlCy2wcGcaArBbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/191606666667?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOor_yVAmh3TJG4uEj6AhV9ox_DipN4S0kR0MRQJokpwBeTghkeCWF7A&com_cvv=d30042528f072ba8a22b19c81250437cd47a2f30330f0ed03551c4efdaf3409e Finally McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/o-rings/

Yeah, I agree. It's all wired for it, but they just didn't do it. I guess they just didn't want to add that complexity to the ECU's. Even through the end of the run in 83, they still used the thermotime system instead of having the ECU control the cold start. Certainly a proven brute force system and one less thing for the ECU to have to deal with. Honestly, I've had my cold start valve removed for years and I don't miss it. Sure it takes a couple more cranks on really cold mornings, but for the tradeoffs of being able to completely remove the plumbing leak sources as well as the thermotime switch, I don't really miss it.

Except when you want it real lean for emissions testing. That screw wouldn’t get it lean enough. There’s a bunch more troubleshooting needed which is why it will be parked for a while. A passing emissions test makes it infinitely easier to transfer out of state titles in Oregon. Now that I’ve got that paperwork I’m not under a time crunch for getting the rest of the EFI sorted

Swapped the coil & transistor module back in, however the middle post on the ballast snapped off when I did the conversion. Without that increased voltage when cranking, the engine is not starting. I'll have to see if I can get inside the ballast to add the intermediate post back tomorrow. In the meantime, I think I have to assume the SMP HEI module I bought is defective, the wiring is definitely correct. I've ordered a genuine AC Delco D1906 module to replace it.

When inspecting the carb insulators I saw small cracking on the insulators but fuel is not leaking and the 240z runs fine. So I was thought it is better replace the insulators with new ones. After speaking with Dave he said the cracking is cause by age of the rubber material and suggest removing the insulators and inspect the inside for any cracking. If the inside of the insulators looks good he suggested cleaning and spraying the outside surface with multi-purpose rubber coating ( Performix Plastic Dip) which will seal the cracking and make the insulators look new. He has done this before and help owners to save having to buy new discontinued insulators which sell for $100 ea.

Hey all! Quick update-- I passed the emissions test on the second try. Barely failed the first then leaned out the air flow meter and passed with flying colors on the second test. If you are having problems with your EFI system or emissions testing I HIGHLY encourage installing a wideband O2 sensor. You are just guessing without it. I found it incredibly useful all along this journey. Best $200 I've spent on the car yet. Thanks for all your help! Now onto the 5 speed swap . . .

Today i got a package from japan with something i've been searching for for quite a while: A complete Eaglemoss airlady 1/8 Scale magazine Model car kit: It is a set that was issued around 2014. It consisted of a weekly subscription magazine wich came with a box including some parts, so each week you would build your part of the Fairlady until you had a complete, huge 1:8 scale model: It is incredbly detailed too, with lots of electronics, mechanically working details And lots of small bits and pieces to assemble: Most parts are bolted and not glued, but of course there's also glue involved: The body parts and chassis are made of metal and the kit is quite heavy: Each magazine includes a lot of history about the Z-series cars and Japanese Car culture of the time in general, Assembly instructions, interviews with involved people and much, much more. This is the first complete kit i've seen for a reasonable price. The reason might be that some parts (very few) have already been assembled, and probably 2/3 of the boxes have already been opened. but since i plan to assemble it anyway and i was also quite interested in the magazines, i don't care. The set also comes with a display stand: And three folders, where you can store all the magazines. It also included a tool-set in a (sadly missing) nice pouch, a little cleaning towl, a Z hood ornament key chain and a CD with some nice movies of the real S30 fairlady development and testing and additional background information. I guess i know what to do in those winter days 🙂