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To simply get the engine to run, the absolute positioning of the distributor driveshaft really doesn't matter. All you need to do is assure that the timing is correct. I would pull the plugs, put a timing light on it, and use the starter to spin the engine over. It should spin fast enough just like that to get a good reading off the timing light. If the ignition timing is correct, it doesn't really matter if the distributor shaft is a tooth off or not. You have accounted for it with the rotation of the distributor body. Of course, since it's been almost a day since you were looking into this, I assume you've already solved this issue, put new brakes on the rear, and powder coated the front control arms.

Drove that little baby...2 hours, 3 gallons and no sense. Ran great after I got out of the driveway. Brakes were stuck. 63 degrees this morning. Things are looking up! (or down I guess, temp wise) I needed that drive too. It's been a miserable summer for me but a "change is gonna come".

If you're near a Harbor Freight, you could get these: https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-and-left-hand-drill-bit-combo-set-10-piece-63987.html https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-t-handle-tap-wrenches-38560.html Also 25% off coupon that's good today and tomorrow: (https://www.harborfreight.com/promotions) BTW the coupon will work for jack stands. I wanted to get a set of 6 ton stands, so it worked for about $20 off today.

Sure, but you'll probably need a car battery or heavy duty power supply to make that work. LR - 12VDC+ B - 12VDC- Low - Connect L & LW to 12VDC- High - Connect LY & LW to 12VDC-

@Zup & @S30Driver. GeeZers, please check in. The troops are getting restless.

S30 texted me back a few days ago and said he was under the weather with some flu symptoms.

Definitely swap the calipers! If you have the master cyl loose it wouldn’t hurt to check the depth. When I say apply grease I mean as little as possible. 1/4 turn longer. When you go to mount it you will know if it’s too tight. Long cue tip and a smidgen of grease at the base. I think you Will definitely find it’s the calipers being reversed.

I think this WoodWorkerB page is what I used for hose sizes and lengths along with where he sourced the hoses from and it is a VW parts site. 240Z – Fuel Tank | WoodWorkerB

Of course, that would explain fuel pump issues.

Man.. He will surely be missed!!

One thing I'd like to add, @Patcon & @grannyknot, Consider getting a DPDT switch like this: https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Handle-Momentary-Toggle-Switch/dp/B000LFVFA8 You can wire the LW, LY, L, & battery negative wires to the switch. Battery negative goes to the center posts on either side of the switch. LW gets wired to one pole on each side of the switch. L gets wired to one side, and LY gets wired to the other side. You might want to mount the switch to something because the terminals might get warm. Also don't forget to fuse the positive at 20A and use 14AWG minimum.

They're in Branson! 😄

Oooo, that's a useful tidbit, I'm going to write that down and pin it to the shop wall.

I may have been part of that thread, I'll do some searching.

Needs to be put in the archives for others as well. Beautiful pic!!

I actually printed that picture today to use as a guide in the shop! :)

If the bleed screws on the calipers are on the bottom, you will never get good brake pressure!

A 1972 sold for $25,500.00 on BAT - in better shape - although it is an A/T. This 71 is going to need a repaint and new Dash, seats etc. etc... In todays market I'd say this 71 should be closer to the $18K to $20K range. 18 months ago it would have been snapped up at $25K... not today... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-283/

Oh Lord let it be that easy, 12:35 I just pulled from memory and I should know better. Looking at it again I think you guys are right, I'm one tooth over from where I should be, it will have to wait until the morning now, I'll have to drop the sway bar first.

That's a good point. I had a similar problem when the front calipers were on the wrong sides. The pedal went halfway down before any brake action. My problem was air in the system though, that could not get out. Easy mistake to make. Bleed valve on top.

Nice cars but they're proud of their parts! Even doing the work myself they were more expensive than I could justify

Like a Gaggle? Hey Mr Greg! I woke up drunk but I'm getting better,

As Darren McGavin says "Mind Power"😄 Everything that isn't a fastener goes on one cookie pan, then after sorting, the second sheet only has threaded pieces and then the sandwich baggies come out. All the lock washers in one baggie, flat washers in another, 3/4" M6 in another, etc. One baggie will be oddball and specialty fasteners that don't fit in other categories, it takes a couple of hours to do the sort but saves lots of frustrations later on. Also sometimes I take pics of the part just removed with all the fasteners arranged next to it. After doing so many of these cars a lot of pieces on the cookie sheets look so familiar I just pick them out and put them where they belong and best move I ever made was buying that rusted out green 240z years ago that I parted. Every fastener on that car went to the platers and is now part of the "slush fund" so if I'm missing something or it's too badly damaged I can draw from that box.

It's always a good day when the plating comes back, makes all those hrs at the wire wheel worth it.

@SteveJ Thanks for looking around. I found some at Pelican parts and have it coming this way. On another note, I pulled out some wiper assemblies. Is it possible to jumper out the plug and make sure the wiper motor works before I put it in the car?