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Well if you've been working with new ITB's, they probably have ball bearings and viton vacuum seals on the shafts. They probably are a lot smoother and tighter than the old SU stuff. If you aren't worn through the chrome, then I'd assume you're fine. As for the needles, my notes say that the N-54's were the factory needle for the 72 year. Manual trans I believe. They should be OK for what you're doing. My assumption is over the years, they leaned things out a little bit for emissions. So the 72 needles are a little leaner than the previous years. I've got a pair of brand new aftermarket "N-54s" here that are complete trash. The profile is so far off that it's not suitable for any Z. I think it was a screw-up by the company that sold the rebuild kit (or their supplier). The numbers for yours look much better than what I have here.

Nothing but squares with a question mark in the middle.

I meant stick a short piece of wire between the two shorting them together. They are already supposed to be connected hard together inside the wiring harness. One of the working theories is that connection inside the harness has become questionable. If you're not comfortable just trusting some guy on the internet who says "Naaah. It'll be fine. Just short that junk together." I totally get it. Next time the problem comes up, just start by taking the voltage measurements from each of those wires to the alternator case. We'll go from there. Actually, the first thing you should do the next time the problem starts is to wiggle that "T" connector around on the back of the alternator and see if wiggling does anything. Then take the two voltage readings of the two W/R to case.

PM me your e-mail address and I'll see if I can send a PDF file to you.

That could be the BCDD out of adjustment. When that gets out of whack the idle stays higher longer than normal. https://www.google.com/search?q=bcdd+adjustment+classiczcars.com+site:www.classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&prmd=visn&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjS1bCp1vX_AhVyj4kEHSgQB-wQrQIoBHoECA4QBQ&biw=320&bih=545&dpr=2.25

You need to figure out why the seat can’t be moved forward. It is possible that once it is moved forward the rear attachment points can be accessed. No, but I have removed and installed a lot of seats, in a lot of different types of vehicles. Many times it has been necessary to move the seat fully one way or the other to access the fasteners.

The neoprene cover is cemented with Seal All, one of the very few adhesives that is gasoline resistant, it will be on there for many years I'm sure.

The mixture will be slightly leaner with the N 54s but I would think another 1/4 - 1/2 turn down on the nozzle screws would compensate for that.

The original needle does say N27, new needle is N54, I can't see any brass on the shaft and I guess there's not much slop. I've been working with the ITB's on the S54 engine and there is no wiggle room at all on those so these SU's feel pretty loose by comparison. OK, so the new needle is slightly bigger.

I installed the inline ball valve on the In hose mostly because without it heat would transfer through the coolant by convection and after an hour of driving the heater core is radiating heat, on a summer's day that was too much for me.

That is true - I'll have to check it after more than 20 minutes driving. I had left the valve open for about 20 minutes outbound drive, to make sure there were no air pockets, then drove back with it closed. My experience with other cars is that with the valve closed the hose on the output side of the core will be cooler than the input, the I/O still felt pretty even in temp. I'll check it again.

15x7 VTOs with 205/50R-15 Yokohama Advan

I'm lucky enough that it will close on its own. i can just drop it from mid height and it latches really well. It just isn't perfectly flush. I'm hoping it compresses will keep an eye on it. I was even luckier in that I didn't have to pull the hatch itself. My old hinge rubbers were intact and painted over but seemed still ok, plus it was only me and no way I was chancing it alone. Nothing in the roof that would indicate previous compromise so felt ok leaving them for now. I do have a replacement pair in case I ever need them. These were reasonable and very well made. With exchange rate tax ands shipping was like $112 US in case anyone needs a new pair. You'll have to keep your old compression plate and shims rubber only. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384879465523

I've been watching the other videos of My mechanics, restoring vices, lamps, door bell etc, all thoroughly good.

Thanks guys, I got the needles out, cemented in with gasoline varnish.

JDM classic car event yesterday

I do not believe a replacement tube is available. Although if you don't destroy the nuts on the ends of the tube you might could refabricate the tube itself with the older fasteners.

He finally seems to have started on the 5 speed 😄. Let's be patient.. I pulled the 240Z out of winter storage VERY late this, year, just weeks ago. Winter stayed very long... It's still 18c during the day, for the time of the year it's cold.. I replaced a fuel line and filter in the engine bay, and in the summer I will do the valve adjustments again. Some basic stuff. Clean up the engine bay. Last week I had a kind of sad request... some guy my parents know, was dying of cancer, and one of his last wish was to see and drive in a 240Z, so who am I to refuse that ? Was glad I could make his day.. 🙂 Some pictures of that...

Late to the party, but here is SASSZ…

If you want to have the latest in battery technology regardless of fit or if you're satisfied with the hold down parts you bought at your local auto parts store what I'm writing won't be of interest to you. If, however, authenticity is paramount then the following will, I hope, help you reach your goal. The correct Nissan battery for your 240/260/280 is still available from your local dealer for not much more than you would pay at your local Auto Parts Inc. Yes, you will have to saw off the brackets that secure the plastic lifting handle, a 3 minute job. Afterwards the battery will conform comfortable with all the correct factory hold down parts, also still available from Nissan. That is, save the firewall insulator and related fastener. Those are available from Banzai Motorworks. Of course I'm not including the Holy Grail battery covers. 2878 - 1972 240 2879 - 1978 280