Leaderboard

Update on the drivetrain for the build. Fairly long list and I’ll probably forget something. RB25DET S1 Bottom End: Custom S30 oil pan Nitto front drive and oil pump Ross crank pulley 87MM bore Wiseco pistons Manley Rods Cosworth head gasket ARP hardware where possible N1 water pump External Oil Cooler Block painted same factory L-series blue Top End: Supertech solid lifter conversion Tomei 270 Procams Tomei Cam Gears ARP hardware where possible Walton exhaust manifold PRP crank and trigger setup RB25 valve covers painted factory S30 graphite (taillight panel, grille, etc.) Garret HTA 3076 turbo built by Forced Performance Drivetrain (and chassis) will be ran off of a Haltech Nexus R5

new fuel pump wasnt sucking in. I put the old pump back on and its working fine. Long way to fix something that was fine all along...

Here's one for Cliff...

Purpose: Click on them and it makes a little money to support the forum. Items: Bicycle light that changes color, flexible screw driver heads, drone with camera. All at crazy low prices that makes one wonder what you would get if you purchased the items.

Did you verify proper contact of the eccentric on the actuating arm? Here's some good stuff. You can test the pump by hand.

I agree, but fortunately not the worst of the cam belts to replace.

I just got an email from Just Dashes, they have my VIN tag and are mailing it back with some rivets. That was lucky.

I took a quick look into this and I think the female contacts are Junior Timer (not JPT, just JT). Here's some pics and part numbers for you to dig around with. 825213-1 - This should be something close to the ECU mounted male tab connector: 827663-5 - This should be something close to the harness mounted female contact connector: And here's an example of the female junior timer contacts: I took a look at the harness I have here and it appears the contacts have a gap between the fingers, and this modification shows up in one of the catalogs as a "special version". Looks like this: If you need part numbers for junior timer contacts, let me know, but I suspect armed with the above, you should be able to easily turn up something that will work.

Did you prime the fuel pump?

I installed the dash on Sunday and discovered the VIN tag missing. Just Dashes must have removed it to paint the frame. I hope they still have it, but I doubt it. I found a vendor on Ebay that reproduces them, so I may have to go that route. I wrote myself a big fat note to avoid installing the windshield before the vin tag!

I believe it's a Trico 47-700

Thanks so much for the link! I read through all 7 pages hoping to find somewhere where the fusible link ratings were translated into amps - the previous owner of my 75 280Z has been telling me they are 'fussy'. I'm more than happy to update this & add the H/L relay mod while I'm at it EDIT - adding the amp rating cross reference link HERE 🙂

The door panels and the seats.... 😞 looks like the door seals are to thick to, bet it's a slammer

Had the Epsilons on my "JPS" World Championship Edition Lotus Esprit, bugger to keep clean! I ended up putting the original Speedlines back on.

@wal280z THE guru for that type stuff. I have his upgrade "from the junkyard" Cadillac parts. How are you Wayne? Long time no speakie. Hope you are good.

This the first group of tests some of you may recognize from the FSM. At the beginning of today, I flunked this thing BAD. Spent a lot of time tracing down grounds/wiring issues and made some improvements. Results of before and after are: 1-1 (throttle valve) Before: Fail, 2-3Mohm. After: Pass 1-2 (throttle valve open) Before: Fail, open circuit After: Pass 1-3 (AFM) Before: 180 ohm, 180 ohm, 100 ohm After: Same 1-4 (air temp sensor) Before: 1.7 Kohm (weird temp reading) After: Pass, 2.3 Kohm 1-5 (water temp sensor) Before: Fail, 8 Mohm After: Pass, 2.3 Kohm 1-6 (air regulator) Before: Fail, 27 Mohm After: 61 ohm (?) 1-7: Pass 1-8: Pass 1-9: Pass 2-1: Pass 2-2: Pass 2-3: Pass Where a "Pass" is a resistance of just a few ohms. Even after "fixing" these wiring issues, still won't start. Injectors still not pulsing while cranking. I didn't have time to focus strictly on EFI wiring, but cleaned as many grounds as I could get my hands on. Maybe drop resistors aren't supporting enough current, or issue at relay pins like Zed Head mentioned...

That thing looks like junk IMO.