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Here is some more info I believe this is the before measurement This is my setup to soak it. I had a lid with a weight on it to keep the alcohol from flashing off. I turned it morning and night every day for about 9 days. It takes four rotations to get the whole part soaked. That is why it isn't totally even. Would have taken a good bit more wintergreen to have enough to fully immerse. This part was rock hard and is pretty thick. I think that is part of why it took so long. This is the after measurement It does swell it some and when it's not fully immersed it will distort the part some Before video After video

Well things never go according to plan, and even then the best laid plans never survive contact with the enemy... My plan being to refresh the engine with new bearings and a hone to the crank and cylinders. After mic'ing the crank, it was discovered that the PO had already honed .030" off the journals and there would not be enough meat left to machine them again. Bye bye V07 Crank 😞 Hmmm, doesn't look bad but.... So where do we go from there? Reg looked carefully at the pistons and the ring chamfers and concluded they were beyond hope too. More sad news but oh well. What else could go south? Well, apparently the block was maxed out at 90mm and there was not enough left to hone reliably for new 90mm pistons and rings. 😞 😞 My sad pistons and rings. Now what?? No crank, no pistons, no block and an E88 head with a corroded water jacket in need of a valve job and welding... After careful consideration, I decided I was not left with a lot of choice. Stay stock or start over. I decided to order a Dave Rebello 3.0 kit. Offset ground L28 crank, 88.5mm forged pistons, H beam rods, bearings, head gasket and rings. But where to put it? Lucky for me my builder had a stock F54 waiting for a future build in house. I convinced him to part ways with it, so that will be going out for some machining and prep for the Stroker kit. The E88 head was salvageable, but needed work to make it 100% again, so rather than re-use the E88, I decided now or never and brought my stock P90 to him for a 5 angle valve job, complete porting and polishing and custom fitting to the new block. Effectively the stroker engine will be all new with just the original valve cover and oil pan... New timing chain, cam shaft, valves, rockers, and paint. My stock state P90 The plan is to have all of this arrive in time for Reg to assemble and have ready for me to install in June when I am home. So much for the low budget rebuild! A nice pristine modded P90 from Reg...

And Jay Ataka @esprist also was just featured on Jay Leno's Garage.

Next to the S30’s, the absolutely best looking Z ever made.

Who knows at this point - at least it's running though

Just noticed that Motor Trend recently posted an article with some good pics of this Phantom Z Wagon. Love it or hate it, I think it's kind of cool. https://www.motortrend.com/features/nissan-datsun-240z-sport-wagon-shooting-brake-custom-build/ Not complete without Mr. Matsuo. 🙂

The photos look familiar...https://www.zcar.com/threads/wiring-ignition-with-rebello-carbureted-l28-into-a-77-280z.424085 Are you sure you trust that joker who told you what to do.

Final update: We probably fried the TIU because it no longer sent spark timed properly and some cylinders never got spark after the fact (we tried flipping plugs, wires, etc but the box simply wasn't telling the coil to fire for cylinder 5 at least. We swapped the car to a 280zx matchbox distributor and it started right up. All that to say, do not bypass the ballast resistor.

Could be just bad oil rings. Might be possible to just hone the bores and change rings to stop the fouling. It is an old California Datsun engine. Who knows what he put in there.

We have a crank shop near us that regularly reworks journals like that. They weld them up and then remachine them. Probably not cost effective. Especially if the offset grind L28 will accomplish almost the same thing. Hate it about the motor, but the new engine aught to be impressive

True but we never got it to move from cylinder #4 no matter what we tried. Maybe the oil ring is bad or the gaps in the compression rings aren't properly offset. Ive got no idea but there must be some cause and it seems like we tried everything else

Ill have to do a compression test again. That was way back in 2018. I did replaced both valve seals in that cylinder and the problem was never fixed

It's a 1995 - Avus blue with black interior - US spec.

Thanks Charles. It feels good to do something other than bodywork. Today I changed the oil in a couple of my other cars (the GT3 and M3). For right now, it feels like everything is easy compared to bodywork!

Once this alternator is squared away….. I’ll wire the fuel pump. Then I’ll see if it will turn over after fuel and fluids are added.

I don't know how but mine blow with the motor rpm's until the thermostat opens. I crank them at least once a month holding at 2,000 inside the garage, the fan gets quiter and then I see coolant flowing across the top of the radiator. This is something you guys already talked about I'm guessing but I finally read what explains it to me in simpleton speak.

Updates: Lighting…. Some issues I’m believing comes down to relays. A relay under the passenger seat is causing the parking brake light to stay on. Dad told me he had that issues before he garaged the car. Front Side markers are intermittent, and when hazard lights are on both front signals turn on opposing each other, not simultaneously. the alternator is no good, returned it. Waiting on Napa to bring in the correct one (hoping the parts system for them is correct). wired the ignition coil, cleaned up the resister, and connected the distributor. It is a pertonix distributor so I went ahead and bypassed the TIU and Terminal block, connecting the distributor direct to the coil. Slow going to say the least.

Alot of the six cylinder BMWs have the starter under the manifold. Its a hateful process! I totally understand the frustration

Have the block soaking in Evaporust for a few days, dissolving any rust left inside the water jacket after pressure washing. Stripped the block of any old paint so back to bare cast iron. Have all the pieces ready for the rebuild including Nissan/Made in Japan bearings, NOS Japanese made gasket set. All the nuts and bolts off the engine have been cleaned/derusted/wire brushed and replated ready for refitting. Just need to soda blast the alloy front cover, cylinder head and cam cover. The 4 screw carbs have been stripped and put through the ultrasonic cleaner ready for reassembly with replated fittings. Can't wait to see what it looks like reassembled. Meanwhile the gearbox is getting new seals and a good cleaning.

I helped a buddy of mine replace the starter on his Toyota Tundra pickup last weekend. My main job was to keep him from unloading his pistol unnecessarily. It's located under the intake.

So I have an update. My plating tank was a clear brown color. I decided to try to make a new solution using ZnCl. I mixed up a tank of that and tried to plate something without success. So I decided I would just renew my tank chemicals. I placed an order with Caswell and bought two 1.5 gallon kits. All mixed up it was about 4 gallons. My current requirements in my old solution had gotten pretty high. I assume this is from me having filtered out some of the solution components when I filtered my tank. The new solution is quite cloudy. So noticeably different. IT also plates really well. I added a cap and a half of brightener in my 4g tank and was turning out pretty nice plate at 0.17-0.19 A/squ in. I also added several rinse buckets with a gallon of distilled in each. One after the degreaser One after the pickle One after the plating tank and one after the blue chromate. I also added heaters in both chromate tanks set to about 80d F