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Made some progress. Big thanks to @Patcon for the rottisserie. Really a great way to work. I had trouble lining up the hood/fender. I think the strut tower was tweaked in a previous accident. My plan is to paint underside, inside, and engine bay, then put it together enough to get it checked out on a frame machine. Not ideal I know, but it's the next right thing to do.

You're welcome.

Here is a hi-res tiff file I created a few years back. 240Z Chassis Dimensions - Source 1970 FSM Dated 15AUG70.tif

Also, the type A shift lever is straight while the type B shift lever is bent per your picture.

The type A is a three piece case design like this: Type B is a two piece case design,

Good points. I looked up some alternators. I’ll just take this core and exchange. Probably spend the same amount trying to figure how to Jerry Rig this one

I did finish the rear axle stub bearings today. thanks Zed Head for the help, I removed the stub axle and you were right about the seal causing friction. I did set it flush with a block of wood and a hammer yesterday. now after looking at the seal again today the seal has to be set in almost a 1/4" from the outside. there is just a small lip that I felt and set the seal up to that which just about touching the inner bearing. I torque the stub axles down to 200- foot pounds and it does spin freely with no noise and binding. I guess the flange has just enough flex when being torque down that it must just flex enough to cause the binding. it is a very simple job besides that little problem. the shop book says nothing about the seal install and I did it the usual way which is wrong. now anybody looking to do the bearing replacement make sure the seal is all the way in and you should be fine. thanks again for the great help. kully

I just love this site. There is so much knowledge here, and everyone is so helpful. Thanks again to all of you! z3beemer (Paul)

Most likely is a short to ground from a pinched wire. It would be between the load and the power source. Even if you determine exactly what device is powered you'll still have to examine the wires you touched for breaks in the insulation. Might be most effective to take things back apart and look for a damaged wire.

The other inline fuse is for the radio. The one with red wire is for the fan.

The inline fuse holder is for your fan. The larger three wire connector is for the antenna. The three wire stacked connector is for the radio. Black is typically ground.

Today i managed to find something nice and rare. Something i have been looking for for a while and recently one popped up for sale: An original Nissan "two-button" Rallye clock including oscillator box in excellent shape: It consists of a the clock itself including the wires And the oscillator box: A while ago i got this aftermarket oscillator box From japan, which i don't need anymore, but since someone might be curious, here's a little comparison: For those who don't know the Rallye clock was Standard in some japanese cars, and also available as a dealer option over there. In other countries (USA for e.g.) the rallye clock was sold in the "competition" catalogues as an option as well:

Just remember it’s all about prep. For small parts I use a Harbor Freight tumbler with water and Dawn soap. If I have some parts that are stubborn, I will throw in a small handful of sheet rock screws into the tumbler. It’s amazing how much crap comes off after tumbling for a few hours. On the larger parts I use a dremel with the little scotch bright heads which can be purchased in bulk off EBay or Amazon. Dremel also makes what looks like a small rotary buffer that uses scotch bright pads and these can cover the larger parts like head light buckets.

Yes, the timing can be advanced a bit with higher octane, helping to get a bit more power from the engine. But, one needs to learn the art of reading spark plugs, and make frequent assessments and adjustments, to avoid detonation. In electronically controlled systems, the knock sensor tells the ECM when detonation occurs, and the ECM retards the timing from the initial advance setting. Otherwise the ECM controls the ignition timing based on load and throttle position.

Higher octane number fuel, you can advance the timing more, before it start's knocking. In modern cars there is a knock sensor, that does that automatically

That is way more legible than what I have. Thank you for sharing it!

Don't forget about Rockauto. If you go for the externally regulated, choose one rated for 60A. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,280z,2.8l+l6,1209248,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412 Internally regulated (modifications on Blue's tech tips): https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1979,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209293,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

Why use that alternator? Is someone going to inflict bodily harm on you if you don't use it? Other than it being manufactured by Mitsubishi, what do you know about it? Has it been tested as good? What is the output, and is the output curve appropriate? It will need an external voltage regulator and one heck of a cleaning. Those terminals won't have very good contact. You could possibly make it work, but why? Here is what I believe the connections to be: You could get a 4-pin non-latching connector from Vintage Connections, but the pin won't be big enough to accommodate the gauge wire for the power wire.

I used a place in San Diego called Anocote Metal Finishing. They regularly do car restoration parts. I was very happy with the results and cost. I think it was $70 per hour. So whatever they could process in one hour. So lots of screws and nuts will take more time as the have to wire them up. Here is a pic of a bin of extra stuff I had done by them but don’t need anymore. All the yellow zinc you see in the engine compartment pic was done by them. It’s not perfect but it’s well within my expectation. I shipped a 14 lbs box and got it back in about 10 days including shipping time. Super easy people to work with. I don’t think anyone does the real deal chromate anymore for environmental reasons. The stuff I had done is a yellow zinc plating. Ask for: Debbie Cook Anocote Metal Finishing 7550 Trade St. San Diego, CA. 92121 858-566-1015