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I've got some 12 year old bourbon that was barreled when that thread started.

Thanks Bart, Jason240z, Patcon and Dan. I found the FRP bonnet has thicker edge than steel one (A ) and also the male catch positioned quite closer to the female catch bracket (B). (A) was solved by replacing a seal rubber to thinner one. (B) was solved by tightening the male catch as much as the bonnet can stay locked and sit same hight to the cowl top panel. I needed to take off a black plastic spacer for full travel of the male catch. I also enlarged two holes of the male catch just a little bit to achieve more slide to the right. This solved uneven gap on left and right between the inspection lid and the bonnet. I really appreciate all of your help, now I am happy with this look and it is fun to steer the wheel much lighter than before. Kats

This is what came to my mind also. Plug #4? It's a single cylinder problem. Changing things to fix one cylinder will affect the other cylinders. Also remember it has a performance cam. And it's a CA Datsun engine. If it was mine, I'd find a used stock unmolested engine and swap it in.

We made a little more progress. The new chain didn't have 2 shiny links. So we used the old one and marked it ourselves. We used clay and checked the clearance. It wasn't close at all. Barely touched it. We then got the head torqued down and the guides in. The long straight guide was touching the inside of the cylinder head pretty good but we got the bolt in regardless. We're trying to find timing cover bolts now. Who knows what we did with the originals! Timing cover cover gaskets are also a real issue. The timing set was correct for the L20 but the gaskets weren't. Fortunately the gasket set I bought originally for the motor had the correct gaskets. I also need to order a valve cover gasket. We might button it up next weekend. We'll see

Cliff, start pouring.....

We need to find the old thread and link it in here. So everyone can review with their favorite beverage of choice

For those who have rust free Z's (yea right) dont look. I have been working on my Japanese lunch box and the right front rocker is getting tricky. This is not going to be a 10 year on the jig project but not a bondo special either. I have a new outer front tip of a rocker, new inner front rocker and the new inner stiffener. The question is does the right kick panel come all the way down to the bottom of the rocker. I dont think it does. I cut away (pic) the outer part of the rocker and will try to grind to fit the new piece up in there and attach to the A pillar. Plasma really helps. This is a real ugly area to work on. p.s. also included is a pic of the inner rocker where the fender bolts to.

Glad you found one. Getting a bit tricky to source. There is a K&N Filter for the 240 as well. E2910 I believe. I’m no great fan of the K&N filter, but this particular filter body is rubber and a tad thicker than stock, so if your housing is lacking the thin stock rubber strips that seal against usual OEM steel filter, these would be ideal.

@SpeedRoo Can you provide the contact info or a link?

Testing the OE antenna motor function is pretty easy. It has two power leads, one for going up and one for going down. The antenna motor grounds thru the body. Ground the body and apply power to one lead and then the other but not to both at the same time. When I found my car on the showroom floor many years ago, the dealer had removed the AM radio and installed an 8-track unit. He moved the rocker-style antenna switch to the side of the console where it remains today. If you have the later style slider switch it could probably be mounted in a similar manner. Let us know which parts of the body mount you have and which ones are needed. I'm sure fellow members can fill in the gaps.

@inline6 there's a chap over in Kuwait selling off a load of NOS keys and locks. Would it make sense to get an original and reset your wafers on your locks to match the keys. Here's a picture of some of the stuff they have.

SUCCESS - Autozone was able to special order the STP air filter - #SA3378, and it fits my airbox. I have not heard back from O'reilly's yet. Once again thank you DatsunZguy. Update 12/21/22: Unfortunately O'reillys was not able to locate a suitable filter. They were as always very nice. The manager took the time to take the measurements and search for similar filters. He did come up with the K&N filter that zKars mentions below but said that all of his sources claimed that it was out of stock.

Yeah! This car is Glenn’s beautiful very early Fairlady 240Z. I believe his car is HS30-100XX , it means very early L24 model for Japanese people (October 1971 Nissan released Fairlady 240Z series in Japan). The blue 115 began to serve at the debut of Fairlady 240Z series in Japan. Before that no blue was available for the Fairlady Z series I mean Japanese market. Looking at export market, Nissan also refreshed color lineup at that time, 903 blue was replaced by 115 blue, 905 red was replaced by 110 red etc. I am feeling his blue 115 looked similar to 905 because of aging. Here is a good example, this Z432 has 115 blue sold to the US some years ago and looked just like Glenn’s blue 115. PS30-00524 first registration was made June 1972. Kats

Hi Gavin, the craftsman was popular amongst the Mach fan but yes he seemed stop making it. My Mach steering wheel is this one, produced by RS Mach http://www.rsmach.net/steering/op010.html This one is not as original as the one you mentioned, but very accurate finishing touch and super high quality. This one is a plug and play, only inside of the boss is modified for easy use ( horn button contact, electrical wiring etc). So, let us see your horn button back side. Is it the same as the one on the parts catalog? Or I am guessing you bought a RS Mach produced horn button, if so you can still get remaining parts from the shop. If yours is genuine or Goodness reproduced, then it is very difficult to find associated parts. RS Mach boss can fit in genuine Mach steering wheel (maybe Goodness wheel too). I chose a transparent button just because I like it. I wanted a silver steering wheel with a sliver boss but the silver wheel was NLA. So I get the black one with a black boss, but I chose a silver (rounded edge) ring with a transparent button. Kats

Come on librarian, link it up and get you a tumbler of ice!

I had a '75 that was gone from the base of the windshield all the way to the fuel tank on the RH side. The tunnel and a bit of the rocker was the only thing holding the car together.

I thought I replied to this, but can't see it now. Yes HS30s came in those export colours you mentioned. I'm surprised to learn that Universal Blue was not on Fairlady Z series. What about Fairlady 240Z-L? I am sure I've seen them in the darker 903? Is this car the later blue? Different lighting makes it look dark. But I'm guessing it's not 903 and actually 115 metallic blue? https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39457-blue-paint-code-please-help-me-find-this-color/

I've got the same addiction. I just noticed however your black Ura Mach Wheel has a transparent looking horn button? I recently won a horn button for my black Ura Mach Wheel on Yahoo! auctions but it has a black horn button. Did the black wheels get transparent buttons? Also do you know anyone selling the hub adaptors for these wheels? I recall I found a website in Japan ages ago selling parts for these wheels, but I think they said they had stopped production..

When I inspected HS30 00004 it also didn't have any chalk markings on it. I was a bit disappointed. But maybe special production cars didn't get them?

I've never tried that but that is likely why the design has the adjust-ability it does and the lock nut. Good thought It will probably make it a little tougher to latch and the release cable needs to operate well with the extra tension on the hood

From the first pictures I can't even really tell what I'm looking at. It needs to be zoomed out some.

I agree that it looks like it should with the correct original fitting gaps. But, just looking at the male latch on the hood, if the hood center is high, would it be possible to screw the male latch catch further into the hood so it would seat lower in the female latch catch on the firewall? probably all wet, but just asking.

Oohh!!!! Can this be a share your rustbuckets thread? If so, I have a few. Here is a 77 280Z I have, HLS30-400870.

It looks great Kats! I'd be surprised if you could make it much better than that

I think the fit looks good as is. Lovely car

Looks fine Kats! Not bad. 😉

The local store ( like Home Depo) has soft rubber, and it worked quite well. It looked not bad I think. Kats

Cylinder pressures at engine temperature are much greater than the leak-down test. And coolant gets sucked in due to engine vacuum. For a problem like yours, where you're on the edge, it would have been best to start with a properly filled and maintained system. You started with an empty reservoir, but didn't really say if it was ever full. Most of us never see any change at all in out coolant reservoirs. I have often wondered on my various cars if it was even working, the change was so indiscernible. If a change did happen it would have been concerning. Empty would be panic.

So 3 months later we're at it again. So we worked on getting the timing set on and prepping the head gasket. The dark gasket i the old gasket off the L16. I believe the new gasket i off a KA motor?? It needs a number of holes added So I tried a round hole punch but the metal in the gasket just stretched Then we tried drilling the holes I finally settled on dremel tools We put the guides on and found out the chain in our timing set was too short. In actuality I have the wrong timing set, which is too bad because I can't return it now. 😞 So I ordered the correct one. We are also concerned about piston valve interference, so I ordered some clay to do some measuring