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Oops. I missed the part where the OP said he has an L24. And when I saw turbo my mind wrongfully went straight to L28. I always forget about those earlier blow-through turbos. This is why I don't help my kid with school things like reading comprehension and math haha.

Thanks for the feedback. I also already had the Tabco rockers. When I look at them, visually I cant tell how accurate they are or are not. But I just received a pair of the KF full rear quarters. They looked pretty good all the way to where they join up with the other parts of the car. The quality of the KF quarters made me question whether I should expect my body shop to use my Tabco rockers. I have begun a mission impossible journey with my car and a couple hundred dollars in rockers wont make a cost difference one way or another. I am thinking of buying the body shop the KF rockers now.

The nozzles sticking is frequently caused by misaligned nozzle linkage. The ends of the little flat bar linkage pieces must be parallel with their mating surfaces. Normally a bit of a twist with pliers is all it needs to realign them. Unfortunately, I've not found a way to see and tweak the linkage into alignment without removing the carbs. Slow and sluggish acceleration sounds like it may be running rich. Pull a spark plug or two and take a look.

What do you know about the engine? It has studs and non-stock pistons and a mish-mash of valves. It looks like somebody ran straight water for a while the passages are full of rust. Did you jam the timing chain? If not you'll probably need to reset timing anyway. Could be that your damper is broken or the wrong one also. You should probably get Monroe's book. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-ebook/dp/B006VUICHG

Ended up getting a full refund for the damaged door frame from the shop I ordered it from in Massachusetts. The guy has a mint condition one and will mail it to me next week. Hope you guys in the US had a wonderful thanksgiving!

I got my '70 Z in 1998. It had a small crack in the dash that had been repaired reasonably well. I have used petroleum jelly on it ever since and it has not had any further cracks. Vinyl is a petroleum based product. Although I have no scientific proof, I believe the petroleum jelly replaces at least some of the oils that have out-gassed over the years. My dash has stayed fairly soft. I do put a white towel on the dash to protect it, if I ever have to leave it parked in the sun.

I was able to put my hands on the rod bearings with relative ease. I'm still in the middle of moving everything into the new shop, so it's a bit of a cluster. If you need mains, lmk and I'll look more.

If it’s a 73, they came with valve relief pistons. If it is from a 73, the E88 head was an open chamber head which it seems to be. Like I said before, I’m pretty sure that head came with an L28 exhaust valve and early L24 intake valves.

Well then I find my 78 car has open holes under the dash. Then has no openings up by the core support, just a small hole. Odd.

The pistons combine with the head's combustion chamber volumes to determine compression ratio. The F54 used the P79 or P90 head. It has a larger volume than the N42 and N47 heads. The F54 and the N42 L28 engines have similar CR's. 8.8 and 8.3. The engine in this thread looks interesting, probably has more interesting parts. Probably should be rebuilt but if it ran okay before it could just be reassembled with a new head gasket. All from a tiny leak...

Those pistons have valve reliefs in them. The Nissan factory flat tops for the higher compression F54 engines don't have valve reliefs. I may be wrong, but aftermarket pistons with valve reliefs are normally used when shaving a good bit of materiel off of the bottom of the head to get higher compression. As mentioned, this is counter intuitive to building a turbo motor(at least an L series turbo). I think I would measure the head to see if any material has been taken off by a machine shop and see if that cam is stock or not. After sorting the above mentioned issues of course. I have DSI pistons and my head is shaved .080" for higher than stock compression.

Petroleum jelly on the dash?? tell us about that... i never heard of it.. i never heard a good (read: cheap!) solution for a cracking or cracked dash.. Mine (240) has a cracked dash with a cracked dashcover on it ! Hahaha... 🤣 that's what you get after 51 years.. Although my 280zx that was all it's time in the Dutch weather and warm garage.. it's dash is pristine! (after 43 years)

I have a Tabco rocker and I'm not impressed with it. I bought it years ago, and I intend to replace it with a KF equivalent. Now that KF is around I'm not sure there's any reason at all to buy Tabco parts. I have a few and I don't think any of them are quality.

First, the engine doesn’t have a timing belt, it has a chain. And whoever pulled the head didn’t block the chain, and the tensioner, so before the head can be reinstalled, the front cover will have to come off, and the tensioner reset, as well as the timing. The pistons and combustion chambers look like they don’t have a lot of time on them, but the top of the cylinders look like they do, and the cooling passages towards the front of the block look clogged and the rest of the visible cooling passages look too corroded. There does appear to be something not right, like Zed pointed out, but I’d rather not comment based on pictures alone. Detonation will burn the tops of the pistons, eventually burning holes through the piston tops. Detonation can also break the ring lands, and rings, something that may or may not be visible without removing the pistons. The part of the valves that need inspection can’t be seen while they are installed in the head. I see someone spent a bit extra and sprung for head studs. You mention a turbocharger. What kind of fuel delivery? Carburetor? Injection? The pistons don’t look like the kind used in a turbocharged engine. Usually a dished piston is used, not a flat top. Tuning a high compression turbocharged engine is difficult, eliminating detonation requiring very high octane fuel, ultra precision fuel delivery and ignition timing. Looks like you have some work to do.

I believe KF Vintage makes the most accurate panels when compared to Tabco. I might go so far as to say Tabco has the least accurate panels...

Fresh air vent I believe.

well guys i took the cable out and lubed it up. the nozzles pull down and car starts easier when cold now but stick some when i push the choke back. now my issue is after driving it seems to accelerate slow and sluggish , also noticed an exhaust leak that wasn’t there before so idk if that could make it run that way or if it’s a different issue now.

Some updates. I got the rear struts all finished. I had to get a machine shop to chase the threads on one gland nut. Scored a nice hood and hatch from Datsun rescue. Adam is a super nice guy, and I am glad to see a younger generation interested in the z cars. Seats and bumpers ready to go. Aftermarket rubber is junk, and luckily I had some very good used rubber and some NOS stuff, so most of it is OEM. Next up I am going to get started on the wiring harnesses. They don't seem to be in bad shape. Fortunately, they weren't hacked up a lot, or eaten by mice.

Perfecto. I found a brass NPT plug at ace and Amazon has the sealant same day. Cross that part off at least 🙂 thanks!

I quit using thread tape when the Teflon thread paste came out. Easy enough to apply to one thread, one complete circuit around, and not the whole fitting. The tape is easily over used, with excess coming loose and going places you don’t want it. And you need a thread sealant on BSP threads too, any tapered thread that is sealing fluids should have a sealant.

Yes, the opening is at the very lowest point in the cooling jacket. Rust scale builds up along both sides of the passages around the cylinders. I’ve seen them so full of sediment that simply picking what could be reached didn’t get the passage open. After getting a block back from the machine shop I always reach down from the cylinder deck through the coolant passage holes with a tool I made to break as much loose as I can, and get the passages as clean as possible.

@dutchzcarguy I think this will be the route I will go. I probably will fabricate my own peice, but if I ever find original then I will go back.

$10+postage. Send me a PM and we’ll conclude the deal offline.

I managed to get another load of rare old, but new (NOS = New-Old-Stock) parts for the 240Z. Most of the parts are something i wouldn't have bought new since they're just small bits and pieces, but when i got the chance to obtain the whole lot, i couldn't refuse. This is what i got delivered today: First of all: A clutch disk: Then a set of complete headlight bucket assemblies. You might remember i got the rubber seals for these included in last weeks delivery, and today also the chrome trim rings arrived: Some more rare body panels: The two reinforcment corners that start at the firewall and extend under the hood on each side to the fenders. I don't think i'll need those, but it's good to have them in case the bodyshop needs those: There were also a set of gaskets. The one on the left is for the big original air filter. the red one for the fuel pump. the two black ones are for the water pump and the other one obviously for the exhaust downpipe. Last week i got some of the side marker parts, and this weeks i got the chrome trims and rubber seals for them (two top items). Additionally i also got the rare bumper mounted turn signals for the Eurpean spec 240Z including the rubber seals (bottom two items): A set of filters came with the delivery too: Oil filter, and fuel filters: And an original water pump: Something rare is this fusebox. and a fuse remover tool. I don't know i think this is not the correct one for the 240Z as it has too many fuses. so i will probably sell it. A set of chrome bumper trims or whatever they're called. I think they're US-Spec but have to double check in my manuals. Will also go up for sale if i don't need them. They also came along with a set of original rubber covers for them. I also got a set of strut inserts for the 240Z. Strangely the included papers mentions a PL510 and other cars, but the box says GS30 and S30 "Hard" so i have to double check ne numbers too. And then i got a load of small fastners, mounts, shims, bits and pieces. Those are always good to have. some of them are really rare and useful, others seem a bit strange and unfamiliar. Overall it's a great lot, even though it wasn't cheap. I still have to double check all the part numbers and see if they're right for my car. I have my doubts in some cases. But that's not an issue, i just put them up for sale 🙂 At the end, i'm sure this will save my arse once or twice when i put together the car and realize a certain small piece is missing and worth replacing, only to find it in this lot 🙂 Another friend gifted me this Coin with a Japanese lettering and a 240Z on it. It's a bit strange because it seems to show a "regular" S30 chassis (see the grille?) but the text says "Fairlady" (top) and 240 Z-G (bottom). The backside says "Award". I don't know where this comes from. but i found a few googlin japanese "240Z fairlady coin" etc. One sales ad had the following text included: It's a coin you get when you collect dozens of old arcade coins. This coin is over 30 years old. Owners and fans of Z30 and 240G, what do you think? If somebody knows more i'd love to learn what this is about.. What's next? I have a week off the coming days and i plan to get my EK9 read for next season, so i can put it in hibernation during the winter and focus on the Z again.