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Okay, quick update foreshadowing my thanksgiving week plans: That would be a crate containing one complete and test run 2.9 liter L-series Nissan engine, which arrived from AZ on Thursday morning.

You probably have a Russian account. You just don't know about it.

Exactly. Mine is 98% Velcro.

Took the car back to the shop and they cleaned the ampmeter needle and came back to life. 20221119_110436.mp4

Every now and then the email links to new listings goes to spam. I contacted BAT regarding the problem, and they never replied. The innernet is a wild and dangerous place. Nefarious characters lurking at every turn, ready to pounce and rip one to bits.

If it was backfeeding, it would have to be through the turn signals or brake lights or your dash isn't grounded. Those are the circuits where backfeeding could occur. As I asked before, are the side markers coming on when the gauge lights are on? Are any of the indicators/warnings coming on with the gauge lights (high beam indicator, turn signal indicator, brake light warning)? What happens if the AC fuse is pulled? (The fuse marked 1 below) Do the gauge lights come on? Do you have brake lights? Turn signals (with ignition on, of course)? Do you have voltage on each side of the Park Tail fuse (Marked 2 below) with the ignition off? What is the resistance between the dash frame and the chassis? What is the resistance between the dash frame and the negative terminal on the battery?

Get a small suction cup. Lick the inside of the cup and gently see if it adheres to the glass. Once pulled forward see if the gauge goes back to normal. In a shop you never know where there hands are going especially if you’re working under a Z dash. A finger or thumb may have pushed that glass in. My two cents…

You mean "the password is strong in this one" Obi wan.....😀 I could see where this could be a hack and they are data mining. "Upgrade you password"

Maybe your password is already strong.

i did get the bracket to mount cable on center tunnel instead of under console since my console was broke already. ill take the cable off today and get it oiled up . it might be broke or needing some oil since it’s already real hard to pull back

Pull that choke cable out, shoot oil into it and hang it down to let the internals get lubed, then follow @siteunseen's advice of reinforcing the choke lever mech.... It's an old car, i find myself warming it up at least until the temp gauge starts to move... Once its warm it clicks on the first try.

No I don't. Maybe that's where the difference lies.

It's on the front page of the site. They're probably getting hacked and spammed. My email account is getting a ton of spam, much more over the last few months, especially the last two days. Just got one that looked like an official Microsoft "unusual activity" email. The link to do something about it had "unusuaaly" in the link. Reported it as phishing.

I'm not going to do anything until more info is forthcoming.

I bought one that was hard to start cold. After pulling them off I saw that the PO had used stiff fuel line from the nozzles to the float chambers. The nozzles wouldn't go all the way down with that hose on there the way the cables were adjusted. My dumb arse got the cables super tight and forced them down. That lasted about 2 days and the choke lever assembly broke off the console. I bought some of the right type hose that came in a kit on e-bay for like $20 bucks, before I learned of ztherapy.com. Also found one of the best home garage design 240 part that's out there. A better than OE bracket for the choke lever made by Art Singer. Also need to add something recent that was causing hard start up after sitting awhile. My float chamber lids were loose enough that the fuel was evaporating out of the chambers/bowls. Tightened those 4 screws up and now it hits right off the bat. Little things can turn into huge things I've learned.

Just remove it and see if the system can cool things down. The engine should never get up to operating temperature without a thermostat. If it can't keep things cool then it won't matter what thermostat you have in there. p.s. the thermostat is actually a heating device. It blocks coolant flow until the coolant reaches desired temperature.

https://www.newcoproducts.com/index.php?route=common/home They supply braided metric fuel hoses as well as JIS blots. FWIW: the top hose from the eVape tank to the fuel pipe is 22mm not 19mm as shown. I used a 7/8" fuel line w/no issues. Q: Has anybody put a metal eVape tank into a series 1??? I got a hold of a metal tank and couldn't make it fit.

I didn't get the notice. I wonder why, not that I feel left out.

Well then, if we are all getting the nag, it must be real and not some hackers trying to scam us. Thanks guyz.

Back together: I found this component to be a pretty simple refresh project… if you don’t try to pull the bearings or the plastic bushing out of the column as I’ve seen done in other threads. I used a variety of degreasing sprays, patience, time, and gravity to clear everything out. I think eight rounds and it was flushing out clean. Then repacked the bearings using more patience and a syringe full of grease. It took way too long but it worked. Primer and paint were harder given the poor weather in the north east over the last several weeks. It took a full week for each coat to completely cure. And that’s in the heated garage with a dehumidifier running 24/7. Hence the drawn out timing of this process.

March 2016 update i just ordered hoses and I'm in the process. Tank is down and out. Trying to figure out sequence of removing these very stiff hoses OUT. REASON IM WRITING found a source of metric hoses that are all modern fuel(ethanol ) rated Belmetric.com. A source of metric fasteners and hoses the braided 17 & 14 mm ...search RH17 and RH14 for CONTINENTAL vacuum, fuel , etc hose the 5, 8, 10 mm ...search RMH 5, 8, 10 FLENNOR Multi fuel hose 19 mm is not available now to the bends...They offer stainless hose benders. A wire wrap that supports the hose and makes the turn RHBEND 23.6 for for the 17 mm hose RHBEND 21.2 for the 14mm RHBEND 16.5 for the 8mm NOT cheap but the correct products. Sold by the meter I got TWO meters of the 14, 17, 8, and TWO ea 14-17 benders!!! TOTAL $199.64 free shipping. I think I could have gotten by with one meter but?? It's just money. The labor is what is kicking my but at 71.