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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/30/2022 in all areas

  1. Well, I had a chance to use the bench to work on the car today. I was about to take the 240Z to a car show, but it wouldn't start. I pulled the #1 plug and tried again. There was no spark. I got in the 260Z instead and went to the show. When I got back home, I hooked the voltmeter to the coil. No voltage in start or run. After just a moment to contemplate the test results, I determined that the tachometer must have become unplugged, probably when I was messing with the hazard light switch a week ago. No better time than the present to test the bench in real world conditions. I set it up, put the pad on it and scooted under the steering column. After groping around some behind the dash, I found the unplugged connector and put it back securely. I slid out from under the steering column and stood up with no strain on the back. I then folded up the legs and put the bench away. The car started right up. It's so nice to see a project work out so well.
  2. The speedometer hole is the same as the fill plug so it shouldn't leak out. Maybe a drop or two. When you get the seal and o-ring done leave some clean paper under there overnight to make sure it's stopped leaking. Seems like I had to use a deep well 10mm socket to get the seal all the way down.
  3. Working on a customers automatic 72 . Engine is modified L28 with close to 200 rwhp . New territory for me as far as trans . Trying to protect the engine and drivetrain from an inadvertent shift to neutral while the engine is spooled up . Decided to try some gate mods on the shifter . It seems to work excellent on the bench , but haven’t tested yet . These trans will shift out of first regardless whether the shifter is still in 1st . Selecting second gear the trans will stay there —until you blow the engine up or shift. This trans( 83zxt) has had the valve body modified , so not sure what shift points are under WOT . Need more test and tune ! I have the engine protected with a rev limiter , but don’t want to shock the drivetrain by an accidental slide in neutral. Made a vid IMG_6098.MOV IMG_6098.MOV
  4. I'd rather "Ignore" them. My ignore list at HybridZ is lengthy and growing. Not many ignores here.
  5. Perhaps a recent update unchecked the box. Go to Account Settings>Signature and move the slider button to the right. I just did and now I see signatures.
  6. Looks like the Ignore Thread feature is gone too. Must've been some kind of reset overnight.
  7. Depends upon if it is a solid cam or drilled. Which is it? Also, if I recall, anything on an L24 cam with over .460 lift requires a shorter valve seal to eliminate valve retainer contact with the higher lift cam.
  8. Nice to have an extra for times like this.
  9. Reach down and grab the pedal. When you push it with your hand it should have some free play before you feel the pedal touch the master cylinder rod. If you press the pedal and it is instantly "hard" then you dont have any free play. That would be like driving with your foot on the clutch pedal. Free play ensures that the master has no pressure on it and allows the clutch to fully engage. You should be able to adjust the free play under the dash on the master. It looks like your slave cylinder is non adjustable so you may need to adjust the master. Maybe check the service manual for proper amount and a visual of how to adjust.
  10. Page 4 in the 99996-CAT04 Nissan Motor Corporation in USA 'Datsun Competition Parts' catalogue (April 1976) lists the 99996-E1031 'Slalom Camshaft':
  11. He just spelled it wrong. I went looking for the cam but couldn't find anything. It is probably an earlier competition part, slalom cam, with the lift and duration you describe. In all my parts books listing competition cams, they all say you must use the special lash pads with the cam.
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