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Before I painted mine earlier this year, I read all the threads on this forum by others who had painted their tail light finishers to determine opinions on a close color match. After sanding and a coat of Rust-Oleum Flat Gray primer, I used Dupli-Color Perfect Match Dark Shadow Gray BFMO360 which is listed as a Ford color and topped it with Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Matte Clear. I'm very pleased with the results.

I got my HEI installed today and took the car for a drive. I rode it pretty hard and it was a hot day today. The car ran flawlessly, clean acceleration and no engine hesitation anywhere. I only pushed it to 5,000 rpm because my engine is still very new., but it was perfect up there. Overall I’m happy. I also have my Nissan E12-92 unit bolted up a few inches away from the HEI and have almost completed the full wiring setup that will allow me to swap modules very easily and rapidly using no tools. Hey I’m a pilot I like redundant systems. We have 3 of just about everything on the jet I fly for work. Here are some pics, it took some hole drilling to make all this merry up right and some special totally flat pan mounting screws for the heat sink so the module would sit flush, there wasn’t a lot of room in the heat sink so this was a must. Once I finish all the wiring clean up, like the setup coming out of the distributor I’ll test the two modules back to back and provide an honest comparison. I made a plate that mounts to the distributor that attaches using the same bolt holes the original module attached with. Then I cut out a notch on the top of that plate and set in there one half (male) of the weatherproof wire connector and then using steel stik I formed a perfect mold of the area where the wires exit the distributor and around the connector. Now it will be sealed and a clean attach point. I haven’t totally completed that so expect pics of that tomorrow,

Okay job is complete and tested. See link to the video showing both ignition modules working and how I quick swap them.

What? You didn't use a 4 pole double throw switch? That would have been even faster to switch over. 😉 Nice wiring.

A good contact in Vancouver area is Byron Meston. I know him personally. Although a dedicated 510 guy, he is well connected to the various Datsun communities in the area and is renown for his willingness to help those in need (as needy as all Datsun people seem to be!) 😉

@madkaw....if you have 72 3 screw carbs where the front bowl lid has longer ears....in my opinion you will never really get the front carb adjusted. What I do now, successfully, is I put a short ear bowl lid on the front carb. Then I use the short needle jets on both. This also helps with the problem of the float hitting the float chamber wall. As Site says....the shape of the float tang is key too. As in his photo above, needs to be curved. The reason...in my opinion...is that the newer needle jets have a very thin needle and they are very sloppy in their movement. They get stuck on a tang that isn't shaped ideally. The original needle jets had much thicker needles and were rounded at the tip so they moved much more easily along the tang. My opinion. I think I read that you picked up a spare set of carbs. Try using the short ear lid on your customer's front carb....get the float tang shape right....and I bet you are money.

And to put this topic to rest. Car rides like a soft cloud now. Teleported the Z to Mexico and did some 100+ runs. Didn't feel any shake in the steering wheel or rear end all the way through the gears. I guess you just can't trust new or remanned parts these days. Glad the solution was this though and not the stub axle. I know the stub axle still has its problems and likely will need to be addressed in the future, but as the old adage says "if it aint broke don't fix it". Thank you everyone for your advice and help😄

@Zed Head I will fix the signature. Anyways, yes I brought my original rusty driveshaft to a shop to be restored and they said the joints were unreplaceable. So they built me a new shaft and called it good. Brought the shaft back today and they covered it under warranty and fixed it/ rebalanced the driveshaft. Turns out it was a defective u-joint. I'll reinstall it and see how the car rides. I am going to guess this is going to fix most of my issue:)

I know this has been covered many times. However, I thought I would post to help others. I repainted my tail light rear panels this weekend - 1978 280z. I am very happy with the outcome. I know this may not suffice for the purists. I did an awful sanding job and I will have to go back and re-do it at some point. Here is what I used SEM 39033 Charcoal Trim SEM 13023 Low Luster Clear Color Krylon K01010A07 Premium Metallic Spray

@Mark Maras fantastic question I can't answer.

That Dino is stunning. There is one at the body shop who did the paint on another car for me and it just looks stunning from every angle. It is insane what those are going for now!

Model years had been a thing in the States for many years before the 240Z appeared here. Any kid growing up here knew all about 55 Chevys and 67 Camaros and 72 Cuda's and 69 GTO's. You could tell a 68 GTO from a 69 by its tail lights. Same with the Chevy's. Even the tail-light lenses of the Camaros had a date stamp molded in to them. It was a point of pride to be able to tell a model year at a glance when you saw a cool car. HS30 seems to be saying that other countries don't define cars by year. Apparently a "model" exists as an entity through many years and changes are implemented as needed or desired, at any time during the model's production. I did not realize that the States is the only place that defines cars by model year. Interesting fact, I learned something about the rest of the world. Nissan did catch on to the model year nomenclature by 1973, apparently. They changed the wording of the Foreword in the Service Manuals. Here's 72 and 73.

Any detectable movement in a u-joint is bad and will be felt.

Yes, I'd say late 80's to early 90's. Before that there was constant confusion caused by indirect, misapplied or misunderstood terms. Like early 71 or late 71. (how early is early? early in what year? which year - the model year or the calendar year? etc etc. Once we realized that Nissan had documented the 4 model series (1970, 1971, 1972, 1973) in their Technical Service Bulletins we started referring to them. The first segment of chassis serial numbers sold to the public according to Nissan began at HLS30-00013, the second segment of chassis serial numbers started at HLS30 21001, the third at HLS30 46000 and the fourth at HLS30 120001. It avoided all the misunderstanding related to terms like model, year, model year, calendar year. Series I and Series II were needed to individually identify each of the two 1971 Datsun 240Z offered for sale. Then tell the difference between the two different 1971 Datsun 240Z's in the marketplace. Looking back at my notes: "The Z Car List" was started in 1987 by Bob Wissman IZCC #176. Before that we had about 300 subscribers on an E-Mail Copy List. The IZCC (a virtual club in the Metaverse) was started by John DeArmond in 1992. #2831 would have been issued in the Feb. of 1996. By 2008 we had over 15,000 subscribers to "The Z Car List". Many new members over the years had just started to look for a 240Z to buy - still asking - what is the difference between early or late 1971 Model Year 240Z's? Which is best? How do I tell them apart? etc etc. (you can see from this discussion that all still goes on today)

Even that link you posted isn't working. It's a shame that they kept taking people's money for so long. I wonder how many people will get screwed. https://whiteheadperformance.com/

Series is 'S30': Yes, I know I know....

The whole series thing just helps establish a sub-category value pecking order and strokes egos of early production owners.

Yes, my gun is also top cup. I believe that it was devilbiss that took over the fabricator of airograph in england.. (I'm not sure.. but it was a famous brand that took over airograph many many years ago...)

They say in the comments, it was not a full resto, they only do bodywork

Great exhibition! I am sure your efforts will be rewarded . It is a wonderful thing that people don’t need to visit Nissan gallery in Japan to see a real Works rally car with historic displays. I have two old films , 1958 Australian rally, and 1970 Safari rally. I wish I have them digitalized so I can show you. I am so sorry they are not about 240Z , but may help to understand what Nissan did for international rally. Kats

I'd say Dodge Ram would be at the top of that list.

Well it's not simply an implication anymore. I've poked around inside the 78 module enough to determine that they DID incorporate current limiting technology into it. 74-77 did not have current limiting, but 78 did. I have no doubt the 79-83 matchbox modules incorporated current limiting as well.

EDIT: Just to be clear, I don't have any open orders with Whitehead but had been reaching out a few times, no avail. This explains why I haven't heard anything in return: http://whiteheadperformance.com/product-category/240z-260z-280z-70-78/240z-280z-diff-differential-axles-lsd/ Whitehead Performance is now permanently closed. Thank you for the support and business over the years. We are working to fill remaining orders Dismiss Perhaps I'm the last to know... Cheers.