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July the 17 I mixed the oil and grease around, burnt the dust of the brakes. I'm scared to go dowm there now. My 4 foot black snake that eats all the chipmunks that store acorns on top of the 280's intake among the other various places has grown to 6 feet now. No more chipmunks but now I have a huge arse snake living in my garage. It's non poisonous by the shape of the head. I know the shape because he leaves me full body skins about twice a year as a way of letting me know he's the boss. I hate snakes. My dog acts weird too from smelling it but I won't kill it unless I have to, you know like maybe a girl sees it and won't come back until it's gone. Here's one from a week or so ago I found in my bycycle. Windshield to headlight, 5' 8 inches.

I also believe it was to prevent iceing in the carbs

I briefly owned a JDM 2.0L 70 Fairlady in college (around '95) that I traded a Marine a motorcycle for. I really loved it, but it ended up being beyond my abilities in terms of rust and foolishly let it go to the scrapyard - triple carbs, magnesium wheels, and everything. I've lost many nights' sleep over that tragedy since then - particularly since I ended up in a restoration career - so when I decided to call it quits with other folks' cars, I bought myself the most rust-free '72 Z I could find - to make amends for my past sins, I suppose. 🙂 I'm glad I stumbled upon this forum - I'm already learning tons of history and historical details, going very much down the rabbit hole, and will have MANY questions about my 240 as I touch up and renew some things that age has gotten the better of. So, thanks in advance! I'll grab some photos of it tomorrow at the shop for posterity and to start this off properly. Stay tuned.

There are probably five major seals that would be best suited to Nissan OE if available: windshield, L/R doors, hatch glass, hatch inner. The principle suppliers of repro seals are Precision Replacment Products (PRP) and Vintage Rubber. The MSA kit is likely composed of PRP items. I heard some brief mentions some time ago the VR was actually using some pieces from PRP but I cannot confirm the accuracy of that. PRP door and hatch inner seals have long had a reputation for being fat leading to difficulty closing the doors and hatch. Most of the PRP seals for other areas can be used with good results. Don't overlook Banzai Motorworks and 240ZRubberParts for alternate sources of high quality repro items. Just my $0.05 worth - if that much! 😉 I'm sure others on this forum can chime in with experiences with both PRP and VR items. https://www.prp.com/ https://vintagerubber.com/ http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ https://www.240zrubberparts.com/

And can I just point out that when I said "I'm thinking that something within the carb itself is keeping that front throttle butterfly from closing completely"... I nailed it! HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

Installed my new replica tail lights. looked at guidelines from the web, all suggested to cut a wire under the steering column to separate the brake light from the blinker. Couldent understand why you would have to do that? Theres a connection at the brake light switch, used that and used the new harness from the replica tail lights and everything workes. Ofcourse the oem tail light 4 pin connection doesn’t match the 6 pin connection from the replica tail lights, you have to swap these so they match.

Techno Toy just sent out an email for their new, custom made S30 steering rack. Check it out: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/ultimate-steering-rack-240z

The ZCON 2023 website won't be live for a little while. Here's the Group Z website: https://groupz.com/

If you choose the wrong one, you'll be a couple of thousand miles from the convention site.

California may be iffy too.

Disconnecting the blue wire from the ignition box worked. Should we leave the other wires connected or remove the box in full? All wires except the blue are still connected and the car runs with the tach.

Ohh I just did this, I would use Eurodats part list for OEM part numbers, or on the right side it has the bearing number (e.g. 6305 c3) and order high quality bearings from an online distributor. I bought a bk104 bearing from Transmission Parts Distributors it had one wrong size bearing, it gave me a larger bearing for the fs5w71c. All of the bearings in this kit were from Nachi, they were very smooth.

@Zed Head Hi ZH, It is in the Tech Articles, but what you say is true. I find it difficult to find stuff in the Resource section.

Pretty sure that I've read about doubling up on the roll pins. Pin in a pin. Turns out that you can buy them that way too. Also, coiled spring pins. https://www.jackstransmissions.com/my-cart/store-home/double-roll-pin https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/pins/spring-pins

I was at my desk this morning, and it looks like the older 1980 gearboxes have a tighter tolerance than the “close ratio” 81-83 boxes. I’m not sure what gearbox this is anymore, it had a RHD main shaft, but a CR tail housing…. It’s a mix. I think I’m happy with the end play at the moment, everything seems to be in “spec” @Dave WM thanks for your YouTube videos BTW, I’ve been using them as a reference. @EuroDat I’ve been really happy with the MT-90, I’m got some fresh stuff for this rebuild. But to be honest the old stuff is so clean I’ll probably use it in my beater. On a side note, I thought about safety wiring these roll pins, to avoid any “lost shifters” at the track. I don’t know how I feel about the “looseness” of the wire, and it wearing down the aluminum shifter forks…. Am I just thinking too much about it? I’m not 100% on the shifter fork orientation for 1/2 gear. I saw an old photo that @Patcon posted and I think it’s right… no image in my phone or in the manual… It looks pretty good, the housings are washed up. Hopefully I can get it buttoned up tonight, and installed tomorrow after work.

That is a great looking car, seems to be in outstanding condition. Congrats on your purchase.

I will! I will! I want to see those old pic's..!!!! BTW, you chose a good example 240z for your new hobby, not my favourite color combination but hey it's your car! (I did say it yesterday... don't like the red interior, but that's just my taste hahaha...

So that would be the 6 cyl. 2 liter engine with the E30 head? (Looks like the 2,4 ltr engine of the common 240z) Or... are you talking about the 2 ltr (yamaha) twin cam engine ?? (also used in the Datsun fairlady 432?)

Found this really interesting post. I'm a beginner in photography, also doing drone shots from time to time.

Very nice find! Congratulations

Maybe somebody has been in there. Anyway, the old module should still be disconnected. Here's some reading. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/75_280z_wiring.pdf

I guess this is an easy way to start: seller's photos

I need a pair in red for my '72 also - first owner cut holes in them for speakers, of course. (gotta have music for pole dancing, I guess?)

I'd just keep it to scare my friends. Rev, rev...Beees!

If all you're doing is removing one or more of the gauges it isn't necessary to remove the dash. Refer to the factory service manual. Don't have one - get one!! Best tool you'll ever buy.

I think they are made by Nishi san at 'Revive Jalopy' in Saitama, Japan.

When i prepared the doors for the Bodyshop, i realized that some of the hinges were worn out pretty much. So i decided to give my spare set an overhaul. it took me a while to figure out how to get the old pins out. but now i got a solution and also finally a use for my new press 🙂 The pin got a bit bent during the process, but shouldn't be a problem: Here's a comparison of the old vs new pin you can clearly see some heavy wear on t he old pin: The sleeve things were pretty worn out too and basicalyl fell apart once i touched it: The inside was easy to get out with the right tools and a hammer: Here we go, everything out and new ones ready to go in: During the process i also wanted to snadblast the old hinges, but realized my compressor is way to small. Luckily my father-in-law offered me to swap mine with his bigger one: Still could be bigger, but it works ok for small parts: Here's one of the door hinge parts freshly blasted: Next? i still need to find out how i can remove the springs on the upper hinge to get the same job done there. and if i should paint the hinges first before assembly, or do it the opposite way? no hurry 🙂 And i got an update from the bodyshop too, they got the fender and door installed for alignment. and realized that one of the previous owners had the brilliant idea of smoothing (cleaning) out the body lines in the front fender, as you can see: Sommething i didn't notice so far... damnit another thing to rectify again. well 🙂 at lest there is already a first progress.. Hope for some news again soon.

Only one picture today, but an important milestone in the project: The bodywork starts again! A few hours ago, i was at the new bodyshop to discuss the first steps and bring them some parts. The car is in good company and the workshop is huge. This is just one little messy corner where it is temporary stored until work begins next week (fingers crossed). The rest of the shop is clean and busy with many people at work. I met the panel beater the first time and he seems to be a really nice dude. They promised me to send pictures every now and then, and since they're basically just a little detour on my way from work back home, i guess i will have regular visits to them too 🙂 So let's hope for some updates soon...

If it helps, I created a 3D step model and flat patterns from a 12/70 parts car glove box I have and uploaded the files here. The flat patterns are in acad.dwg format and pdf as well. It's from a Canadian market LHD car but hopefully it might help. FYI, I just noticed a typo for the sheet size I noted on the template drawing. It should be 24" wide x 36" tall, scale is 1:1 when printed on that size of sheet.

I'd guess it's a used replacement.