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I believe it's all blocked now. I will unwrap it and check-sand it. Then on to rebuilding the booth and getting ready for color

Hi, yesterday I was at Fuji Speedway to see a practice of a racing Z432. Hayakawa san did 30 minutes test run for two sets , the car runs fantastic. We have some popular S20 engine builder in Japan , but today I don’t know there is a serious racing Z432 fighting on a track except Hayakawa san . Built and Tuned by Toyozumi san , he is doing my spare S20 too . I can’t wait the engine finished. Honestly, the Z432 was the best of sound among the circuit yesterday. It is true . There were many modern super fast monsters like AMG GT300 , Ferraris , Porches etc . But none of them were making fantastic sound . Maybe Ferraris? But not even close. Kats FullSizeRender.MOV IMG_7012.MOV IMG_7006.MOV

While this is not vintage, yesterday in fact. (Pacific Raceways in Auburn WA at the Historic Races.) This guy was leading the pack most of the day.

The construction of the 280Z turn signal switch is quite different from the 240Z switch. Inside the switch there is a "bridge" that will connect the contact for the power wire to the contact for the left and right signals. As you can see, there is a spring to press the rounded side down. Here is a picture of the contact pads for the turn signals. This is before I clean up this switch. When the stalk is in the neutral position, the bridge rests on the brown areas between the contact pads. You can take apart the switch and clean it up to make it nice and shiny! If you don't feel comfortable taking apart the switch, send me a PM, and we can discuss my cleaning services. Here's a brief description of what I did with that switch: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/07/11/late-280z-turn-signal-switch/

My Series 1 12/70 car has the chain on the right, 6 pieces plus the split ring.

Here's the high idle test screw. On my car it doesn't touch anything during normal operation. It's just for adjustment.

Hey, thank you! Will def check that out. And I appreciate everybody here being kind... I have done lots of shade-tree mechanic work over the years but this twin-SU setup is new to me, and I feel like a bozo. lol

After a rebuild I installed the carbs linkage wrong and the idle shot up to around 2500rpm. These are '72 round top carbs FYI. These "flats" or "stops" were stacked wrong. This is the correct position. Good luck with your 260. Glad you're here, more the merrier.

Yeah, I don't know what the deal is, but the number and size of the core plugs is an issue. Seems like it would be simple, but it's not. Everyone seems to think that the same kit fits everything from 70 through 83, and that's just not the case. Here are my (relatively disorganized) notes about freeze plugs: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ On the F54 block, there is a total of eleven freeze plugs required. I had originally said there were ten, but I edited this post to show there are actually eleven. Nine 35 mm One 40 mm One 50 mm I bought (a quantity of two) Sealed Power part number 381-8027 sets off rockauto Jan 2020 Each set contains 1-50mm, 1-40mm & 7-35mm plugs. I had to buy two sets to get enough of the 35mm plugs. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ However, I just took a look and that Sealed Power number is no longer available on RA, and actually has a very low web presence anywhere. I still have the bag un-opened somewhere and I will snap a pic or two when I find it, but it could take a while. It would probably just be easier (albiet more expensive) to buy more than one kit of the other more easily available kits. You'll have plugs left over from buying multiple kits, but at least you'll have plugs.

Looks like the same loop on the rear left

I have sent my carrier pigeon, he is almost there now.

Running no bonnet? What's with the circular hook on the strut tower? Some interesting things going on with that car.

Not racing, but a vintage dealership picture…

I have the number for the current owner of the 46. 🙂

Or a telegram. Some of those rotary dial phones had a hard time with text messages. 😎

I found a thread with EScanlon and Fastwoman's input. Electrical came natural to them it seems so here something to read until SteveJ replies.

It's probably the switch itself and it's a very common problem. Lots of threads about these issues. Left is pretty common because the mechanics of the switch causes the contact end to be pushed up. Gravity and worn parts tend to pull the contact away or cause it not to fully engage.

Hi Katz, I see you purchased 2146 off of eBay - did I help you become aware of it?

I’m tempted to call and make an offer!