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Finally got the car on the road today. Put about 20 miles on it and it ran flawlessly. Suspension is smooth, I have a small knock on the right rear in need to investigate when I’m bumps but it’s bad. Otherwise it’s running great. I need to attack my electrical gremlins next . Ride height with the Eibachs and Koni’s is perfect in my opinion. Here are some pics from today.

I jacked mine up and then set it back down on four small moving dollies (from HF). Lifts the car up high enough to be able to get under it and also allows the suspension to squirm around to neutral position which is important when tightening the suspension bolts. Put a plank or two of 2 x 10 across these: Don't let your car roll out into the street on the dollies.

What alternator are you running? I'm considering putting some rattle in the hatch of my '77. Be like 1986 with four Pioneer 6x9 ts6907 in a plywood box. The Z is a perfect coupe for LOUD.

@Captain ObviousIs your life insurance policy up to date??😂😂😂

I tried to find it on line but couldn't find that pic... of may 2022.. I always found it a bit of a mistery why 2+2's are less wanted, and cheaper.. I like them more because of the place behind the wheel is bigger.. and as i'm 6-4 i need some place haha.. When i took out my 280zx 2+2 slick roof for the first times.. i got Many wow's and Aww's, even from roadworkers.. shouting: NICE DATSUN !! 🙂

...I have the Z Car Source 2022 calendar on my wall, and the more I stare at Tyler Sprigg's orange 280Z 2+2 (the featured car for the month of May), the more I dig the look. He did a great job with it. The photo above isn't the one from the calendar; the calendar one is a rear 3/4 shot that really emphasizes the "hatchback-iness" of the roofline profile change. It looks really cool from either angle, but especially the back.

I will need to do a similar fix on my air dam as you did on the BMW. Mine is urethane too.. I had another forum member message me a few months back about the terrible customer service he was having with his Xenon. He said the rep was not sympathetic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's gonna be my hearse.

Well Nils. All I can say is I don't comment much, but I do follow your thread. I hope this panelbeater pulls through without to many external issues. Its been 10 years. Bonus points for sticking it out.

Here's the page from the calendar: Something about the angle of the photo makes it looks extra "hatchback-y" and cool. Well put!

I was able to wrap up installing all the remaining suspension bits! Definitely not a fun job alone 😅 aligning the diff, lifting the strut assemblies, and that damn sway bar! Overall it went in smooth with only two hiccups. First being I installed the passenger side control arm upside my first time around. Second was the spindle pin does have a direction! I must’ve guessed correctly on the passenger side because when I did the driver side I noticed the locking pin wouldn’t line up. Needless to say, I think the spindle pin curse struck me on install since I didn’t pay my dues during removal. I still have some finishing touches before I can take a spin. Bleed the brakes, adjust emergency brake, torque bushings, adjust toe and camber. For those that have tightened the bushing bolts without a lift, any tips on reaching all the bolts with the car on the ground? I’m looking around to see if any friends or family have some ramps I can drive up as that was my first thought.

Standard alternator Bosch AL236X. Plenty of amps to run the Sound Ordnance woofer behind the passenger seat and the Kenwood amp under it. Speakers inside the front center console and inside the B-pillars. Look inside and you can't see anything but Z.

And if you're going to buy a new aar you should reroute your pcv hoses to the '78s. It was rerouted to keep the oily funk out of the aar. This is a pic I grabbed real quick but you may want to do some better research. You can Google"78 pcv hose update classiczcars.com"

Cold = open Hooked to 12V = closed

Those are great. Mine look slightly different but have taps for my heavy audio requirements. I found these plain jane red and black covers on Amazon that fit the terminals well.

After letting my '75 Z collect dust in my garage for much of the past year, I took it to a local specialist for new brakes & suspension work. I'm finally heading into the checkbook mechanic camp. ☺️

I totally agree with everything that 26th commented about the durability and lack of protection this front overrider bar provides. Here is a picture of my car when new with the addition of this bar, installed by the selling dealership. Dan

Finally - the day has come, where the car left the home for the second time for a visit at a bodyshop. This time a different one... The agreed timeline is to complete the body until the end of the year (roughly). I said quality comes before a tough timeline, but also they agreed on not letting the car sit in a corner for 5 years like the previous panelbeater did... The plan is to straighten the chassis, which needs a bit alignment, replace all rusty panels and then add the bodypanels and align all gaps, before having everything dismantled again and ready for the paintshop.... And until then i'll plan my next steps. They already took some panels with them too, but i'll visit them soon, bring the passenger side door and seat rail for test fit and have a look around their shop. I'm as motivated as i haven't been in a long while to push this project as far as possible again...

I found this after a quick look a my thread. Me and @madkaw had figured out a repeatable depth procedure as they will bulge if yo put them on too far/deep. Hope it helps. Ask again and I'll try harder but I remember using feeler gauges stacked together to get the same depth/height, whichever way you're looking at it. I used the distance from the head up to the bottom of the seal's bottom side of the metal band. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50909-72-240z-rebuild/?do=findComment&comment=475701&_rid=23570