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As Nissan sourced many parts from outside companies it meant enterprising parts houses in the USA could source the parts directly rather than from Nissan. World Parts, Beck Arnley, Lazorlite were some of them that actively sold parts for the 240Z, and many others Asian cars, in the North American Market. Once you have the parts cross reference numbers its easy to find what you need through EBay and Craigslist etc. Sometimes the same Nissan part number is also used. The other day I got a rebuild kit for the rear brake cylinder on my 8/1970 240Z, Nissan # 44100 E4127, off EBay. The Lazorlite part number was identical to the Nissan one and in the box were Tokico parts just as were originally used on my 240Z. Amazing how you can still find NOS parts for our cars. I've also sourced suspension bushes, wheel bearings, seals, from Lazorlite. The front suspension ball joint on the 240Z was made by 555 and supplied to Nissan, they also sold to the US parts houses. I'm slowly building up a cross reference list of the part numbers for the 1970 240Z. I just picked up some inner rear wheel bearings for $15 each. Nachi make them and again they put the same Nissan parts number on the box, #43210 E4100. They are exactly the same as the original ones I just removed from the rear hub carrier.

Yes! On monday the shell is going back to the bodyshop. I chose a new panelbeater with a bit more professional background. The other one was OK, but this time it goes to a specialist which is usually handling cars in a more exclusive price-range. Also he's not alone but has a hand full of people on hand and compared to my previous guy - has all the tools required in-house. Also he just seems a bit more of a "do-er" and less of a "talker" - my kind of guy. And he promised me to complete the body until the end of the year for a fair price. So let's have the fingers corssed that the project is back to 100 again now... This means i had to prepare a few things for the bodyshop. Aside from a few drawings with measures and dimensions and other details, he asked me to prepare the passenger side. the first thing he's going to attack is fix and finalize the work of the previous guy. on the first look he told me the work was pretty good, but there are a few small details to rectify especially the rocker panel that doesn't align with the door. something the previous guy wanted to fix himself before i took the car back... So first: there is still a lot of media from the sand blasting falling whenever you move the car... So i took out the vacuum cleaner and tried to suck out all remaining sand wherever possible (2nd attemt, and for sure not the last one...) The previous owner t hought it was coo to have the car "clean" and closed all the holes for the fender and hood emblems. Luckily i have a good fender with the original holes in stock. so i took measures there ...and transferred them to the other fender, to drill the holes. I'm quite satisfied with the result (only temporary mockup, emblem is not fully pushed in) Ignore the black marks. they were wrong, but after drilling, i decided to give the holes a bit of rust protection by spraing it with some primer. i probably went a bit over board with the sprayed area 🙂 Time to put it on the car: The panelbeater also asked me to install the doors and locks so he can align everything neatly and make sure the panel gaps are nice everywhere. And the doors side. Feels good to "assemble" something, even though it is only a temporary mockup with some "scrap" parts. Will be nice to install the other set which is freshly zinc plated or rechromed... While working on the doors i also realized there is some rust on the welds inside the door skin. The welds came from the previous panel-beater, who made sure the bodylines are there again. it seems the previous owner also "cleaned" those. i cleaned the welding spots with a brush and added some rust conversion primer there (no photo of that): While sorting through the doors parts i thought it was about time to give my "new" sandblaster a try: Worked pretty well, except i realized my compressor is too small. Luckily i already have a deal with my father-in-law to exchange ours (he needs a smaller one, i can have his more powerful one): If everything goes well you'll see some picturs of this car being loaded onto a trailer on monday, along with a load of parts. So happy to see the project taking up speed again...

I just used the car in my post as reference to the ANCO bar on it.

I haven't built any engines but a few things popped out at me when I read through the thread. Did you use an adapter when you measured cylinder pressure, and did you open the throttle bores and get a good cranking speed? Your pressure numbers are way low, they look like adapter numbers. The adapter makes the combustion chamber seem bigger. With 8.3 CR you should have higher pressures. Like 150 - 185. I got 185's on a stock 1978 L28. No adapter, small gauge volume. What, exactly, is in the head will be important. The main advantage of the other heads is the bigger valves and ports. You need that if you want to hit 7000 RPM. The E88's have a smaller intake valve, I think, than the L28 engines. I have read about two forms of E88 head also. I think the difference is in the size of the combustion chamber. You probably won't be able to make a good decision until you get the head off and see what's in it and has been done to it. The people that do engines say the power is in the head. Or, conversely, the head is what's holding the engine back. The heads just don't flow well in stock form. Just regurgitating... p.s. you can look up some of jmortensen's old posts and he says that all of the "Stage" cams are pretty low on the "radical" scale. He tried all of them I think and didn't really have any problems. He always recommends going bigger, the 1 and the 2 are barely changed from stock. He was unimpressed with them.

You can run the engine for a short while with the belts off. If the noise goes away it's something a belt was turning. Or the damper pulley (the drive pulley). AC idler pulley bearings are known to go bad and make noise.

I use a 3' piece of vacuum line stuck in my ear for that. I had gone over the valve cover area to no avail. But I'll widen my search. Thanks!

Hi Kats, I used to think I love them unrestored also, but it really messes with my OCD. Especially because on my white 71 the paint has flaked off in areas. I'm thinking I'll try and patch and touch it up, but leave it as rough and ready as I can, until the day I can't take it anymore and decide to refinish it properly. The hard part is knowing what parts to restore on it. For example do you replate hardware? Repaint the engine block? Air cleaner? Etc..? Reskin the dashboard?

Yesterday, we inspected piston , this engine has pistons which have valve relief on top . I am wondering what kind of manufacture are they? The block has casting code 0211K , 1970 , February 11th K . 2146 and 2156 has the same date block . Edit : no, my 2156 has 0212I , one day behind of 2146 ! Kats IMG_6057.MOV FullSizeRender.MOV

Look at the right front fender rust. Two white Z's...

Looks like there are two there, the more rusted one is an automatic he called a 73 but the dash looks 72 The other he calls a 70 (pictured above) but it does not have 70 parts on it c pillar, gas cap, vents in hatch, etc... I think they are both 72's IMHO I called him but no reply as yet.

I would charge the battery overnight on 2 amp setting. Sounds like what mine does when the battery is low. The old alternators don't do too well on recharging. I have trickle chargers that really help.

I just complete the Eibach + Koni install on my 280z. I’m very happy with the ride height. I haven’t driven it yet because I’ve got to install the sway bar and trouble shoot a fuel pump issue that just popped up. Ride height is even front and back and I can fit two fat fingers between the tire and wheel well. Dan has got a lot of work ahead of him but the dirty part is done. Took me several months to do the entire front and back suspension rebuild. I did other stuff in that time period like a new dash and Fuel tank. Dan works fast….I have to do everything twice because I suck so he’ll be much faster is predict. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had to slightly dent my bearing cap for the Koning center cap to fit nice and snug too.

I bought these for both sets of Rewinds. They are well made and I'm been very happy with them. Click on "full description". https://www.ebay.com/itm/110687628566?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item19c57f2d16:g:l8cAAOxyn9BRZsRz&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4N2TChZkUthnaOERQSBZXi9aj%2B42MvFsxqhC7%2BVVvkDpS4LLqtZMCFrqyOw7aPoLv0y0PRLPqeiP%2BAo9uj3EMlLamYZpS0Uwe%2BdexP%2FthWOrp0PFF7SRaPVwyb1mDWuUCH79hoKH%2FxW8HkqJnGeOubUjSukOwwx1ez29SP7CxW%2FRJf8%2ByL%2BZ2Au%2BKfC5xVnnosAPsQLDDqKZcZV6KKf6zND9VrLhT974UdK0Iv%2BirKCntis0jjEHQiwz0ja%2BjhJ0rOH4ZfdQOBRtrwmLJos8JYqibtpsNJkgpCmc6FjxcqnY|tkp%3ABFBMqpyeo5Ng

You need 12 x 1.25 conical seat spline drive lug nuts. Mcgard are very high quality and what I used. Many one here have the rewinds, I have rota's, some will confirm what the rewinds need.

Was there a little fondling maybe?

I can’t wait to try them out! I finished painting all the parts and removing the bushings. I’ve started to reinstall the front end and making progress but it’s definitely slower than removal!

Here is the Konig Rewind in the 16" version - silver finish with machined lip, 0 offset. The tire size is 205/55X16 as per other's recommendations. This setup will closely match the OE tire diameter and avoid speedo errors. You can sometimes catch them on sale at MSA, try and watch for free shipping. Discount Tire is also an excellent source, especially if you negotiate a wheel & tire package discount.

I like the machined shiny lip, goes good with the bumpers and window trim on my car. Msa has all black rewinds that look more race...y?...ie? 0 offset and 4x114.3 like Jim says above. I bought 2 sets from discount tire a few years ago. They were the least expensive I could find then.

Kamesawa san , who helped me out today , owns 1972 Skyline GTR ( KPGC 10 ) . His car , is non restored, preserved condition, so much original parts all over the car . He loves non restored car , so he said I must not repaint 2146 . And I am thinking it is nice to remain as it is . Kats