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He turns 80 today. Walking the track to help visualize his line.

Well I'm no expert on the subject, but my answer is "In theory, it shouldn't matter whether the vacuum advance line is connected or not." Why? Because the source for the vacuum advance is a ported vacuum source that should provide no vacuum at idle. So, if your car is tuned and idling properly and your throttle butterfly is where it belongs when your engine is idling, then you should have no advance at idle. And because of that, it shouldn't matter whether that hose is connected or not. However, if your car is out of tune in some way and you need to have the throttle open further than normal just to get the engine to idle, then all bets are off. So, here's a way to check... Put the timing light on it at idle with the vacuum line connected. Then disconnect the line and see what happens. There should be no change in engine RPM and no change in timing advance.

Wow. I'm completely lost... What did I miss? I mean, I can piece together the whole ZMEFLY / Burgess scam thing, but what does this have to do with Datsun Spirit? Seems there was a controversial thread deleted before I even got the chance to get involved? I feel left out!

It had like 50 responses in a few hours. I didn’t think it was a violation of the new term “community guidelines” because it began by laying out the facts followed by members explaining the fault in his thinking. Not sure why is was shut down. What I got from the whole thing is that this individual needs help. It was one heck of a read. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It allows the schemers/scammers to tell you things without the larger audience able to call them out if what they say is untrue. They can persuade and con in private. Just like a salesperson trying to corner you in a showroom. Get you talking and just start working the sale.

Thanks for the summary. From the context, I figured it was something like that, but I'm surprised it spun up and got out of hand that quickly. I usually check the forum at once or twice a day and I completely missed the whole thing. In any event, I'm hoping that all parties involved get the satisfaction they are looking for. I'll stop bumping this thread and let it go back to sleep.

If your strapped for cash, building a race motor should be pretty far down the important line. DSI builds some pretty motors and has come up with a lot of innovative products. Their youtube channel has one of the best if not the best sounds L series video on the internet.

If you're tuning with points, do you have a good dwell meter? I once tried 3 dwell meters on one car and got 3 different readings. (To make it even more fun, the distributor was missing one of the adjustment screws, so I had to wing it while adjusting it.) I since got a 4th dwell meter so I could confuse myself more. The old school dwell meters are NLA. I might eventually break down and buy a Fluke 88V. I think it will measure dwell, and I only have about 8 or 9 multimeters, so there is a need to buy another meter. Once you switch over to an electronic ignition, you can probably retire the dwell meter. Sometimes I still work on a luddite's car, though, so I'm keeping them around.

It all seems to have come through successfully. I just did a C&P into Excel and it all looks good. Thank you very much for sharing it!

I had the same thing and have big hands. I went on Amazon and bought one of those cheap foot long flexible extensions and managed to get my socket onto it and snugged it up. It was not easy but I managed to get it to work.

You could see if you could get a title through a title company

Maybe so, but the thread title might be seen by a potential DS customer who then doesn't take the time to read through all the posts to get to the truth. It's not fair to DS to have their brand tarnished for what was at most an unfortunate misunderstanding. The customer and DS should have done a better job detailing the expectations, but the customer should have never moved forward without funds in hand to pay. Hoping you have funds in 12 months is a recipe for failure which is what the end result was.

Kats, make sure to mount a dash camera with external microphone so you can capture the noise the engine makes with those rods installed, if you go that route.

1970 Datsun 240Z Series I - $50k (concord / pleasant hill / martinez) I spotted this early 240Z (HLS30-02022) that has a matching numbers engine on the San Francisco Bay Craigslist. Looks to be a very solid California car. The badly faded blue carpeting is hideous, but that is an easy fix. The seller is asking $50k for the car. Here's the Craigslist link: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/concord-1970-datsun-240z-series/7446569044.html Watch on YouTube:

If my spare S20 goes into my HLS30-02146 , these racing parts will be assembled in the engine. The highlight of these parts is the Nissan Works titanium con-rod which was not listed on the sports option catalog . I don’t know this set of six con-rod was raced in a Works car or semi-works (private ) car , or even not assembled . Some one says not good for daily driving, because it primarily was for one chance victory , Alan will know more about it, please tell us what you know about . I sometimes feel I don’t want to assemble them because I will never see them again one by one after the engine completed. Kats

Thanks Gavin, yes their products are outstanding! I already have one for Fairlady Z series in my hand , looks exactly as original from any angle. I just want to re-use the old dirty tank , but it is possible to have a new perfect reproduction tank for HLS30-02146. Kats

@KONI Lee should know. I'd say it doesn't matter. Maybe he knows why the instructions show 50 mL of mystery fluid poured from a coffee pot.