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When I build an engine for the race Z I have my machinist balance everything as a unit, damper pulley, crank, flywheel and clutch cover (the disk isn’t done as it will never stay matched to the rest). The damper is keyed, so it doesn’t need to be marked, but the crank, flywheel and clutch cover are marked with a center punch so they can always be reassembled in the position they were in at the time of balancing.

I don’t see circles. I see road courses.

I bought a universal front end cover and cut it to fit my car. I really like that it stays put. I cut it so that it drapes inside the fender a bit. Also note that even my windshiled is protected, but I did have to cut it to allow the doors to open. https://www.calcarcover.com/product/fender-gripper-universal-front-end-cover-fec2607/3169 (Mine is much older than the one in the link. Buts still a Fender Gripper) Now... if I could only get around to putting the engine back together and get this car running. It has been too many years.

Today with my son's help I finished assembling/installing the rolling support frame for my shell. The Unistrut channel comes in 10 foot lengths so I decided to leave the long members full length. Here is the result, no major issues were encountered.

You could stick a heat gun/blow dryer at one end and just let it run for a while. Isopropyl alcohol (AKA rubbing alcohol) will take water with it but it's kind of a spendy way to do it. Take it inside and prop it in front of the fireplace. Stick it over a forced iar heating vent. Take it to bed with you.

The vertical metal is tubes that the coolant flows through. The horizontal zig-zaggys are just the fins that dissipate the heat from the tubes. It's not necessarily junk if it doesn't leak. But, besides leaking, the tubes need to be clear so that there is good flow and good heat transfer. Just drain it well and store it away. You might also consider taking to a radiator shop and seeing how much it would cost to refurbish it. It used to be common practice to boil them out but it's not so common anymore. Caustic chemicals and longer-lasting coolants make it not so profitable. I had good luck with a parts store Murray radiator. Many of the aftermarket radiators out there are meant for underhood flash, like cold air intakes and chrome hose fittings. Make sure you know what you're getting. And electric fans don't really add much, they're kind of for show also. A shroud, a good fan clutch, and a good radiator works really well. The cooling problems you read about are from 40+ year old parts, not the design of the system.

are you going to use a radiator shroud? There are brass and copper radiators out there new. things to watch out for is the drain hole location if you still have the splash pan, and the filler neck overflow direction depending on how you want to deal with then over flow. I like the copper brass types over aluminum.

IMO, proper balancing of the rotating assembly includes the front pulley, crankshaft,flywheel, and clutch assembly. If I went to all the expense and effort of a lightened flywheel, I would balance the entire assembly. And as you say, if you can bolt it together in different locations, you should mark the pieces for any reassembly.

Seems like a job for 3D printing.

I have been caught out in weather conditions in the summer where I needed the defrost function. Don't be too quick to say you won't ever need it.

I was searching around and found a 15mm x 39mm U-Joint on Amazon supposedly for a Land Rover. In the images they list the part number as AST-1539, and a quick google search makes it look like this is, in fact, a real thing. AST-1539 is actually the manufacturer’s part number, the manufacturer being FEBEST. I think the Land Rover PN is QMN500230 (or LR071147 QMN500250 QMN500230).

I do like a good snuggle. But I imagine my wife might be a little frustrated sharing the bed with something else and its been a while since I slept on the floor. 😛 Its pretty clean now but I will probably deploy the hair dryer method. Worse case the shop I occasionally work out of has a few barrels of barrels of Iso for parts washing, so maybe I can grab a gallon when I'm there next.

It's probably a brass radiator. Just drain it good and let it air dry. Then cap the open ports once it's dry

I should have mentioned that my machinist always does that too, including the rod bolts and caps. In all the time I’ve been building engines the stock Nissan rods have never required adjustment to get them equal in weight. I forget the tolerance, but if memory serves me, a few tenths of a gram.

And if you really want to go whole hog, equal the weights of all the connecting rods and pistons.

Always easier putting in a clean tank than removing a dirty one.

Sorry, I did put his contact above but here it is again. http://heatervalves.net Spoke to him on Saturday he’s going to rebuild and test both AC and Heater Valves. Said he’s done hundreds. Got my fuel tank in this AM, never a fun job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The seals on modern electrical connectors are much more robust and water tight

Dang, that is one clean body!

I use lots of brake clean. I buy ot by the case. I have found it can remove some paints but that's pretty rare. It can also hurt some plastics. Now dont confuse that with carb cleaner!! I have found carb cleaner to be super aggressive at damaging paints and plastic

Brake cleaner? That's pretty strong stuff. I like the "low and slow" approach like barbecue.

Like your garage. Tire storage is great! It's cold out so maybe you can spend some time in there? Everybody loves a "rebuild" thread.

I agree with @Terrapin Z' but I would like to add one small point. Unless I'm mistaken, the function of the openings in the black panel on the inside of the hatch is to let air escape (not enter) through attached rubber flaps that act as a one way check valve. Supposedly to block exhaust fumes from entering. Here are a few pics from my 7/70 car while I was taking it apart, hope they help.

Just had my Nikki fuel pump Media blasted. It looks much better, perhaps a bit dull. I will take the advice in the previous post and use some Gibbs oil based sealer. Thank You all for your help. Jim

And this , 1969 motor show ? I bet those people put their name on the list immediately . Kats

Hi Gavin ,more than 50 years later , still Z cars are shipped to overseas customers like this picture. It is just wonderful. I really love this blue 903 , so I am thinking painting my #2156 to this 903 finally. Next week , #2146 will be arriving at my home , it is going to be the best guidance for making color paint of 903 . Kats

Maybe the ghost of Mr K. will change all the bumpers over on the docks once they arrive in North America to save the new Z and make it a guaranteed sales success? On a serious note, I actually liked the front end on the proto version (in yellow) but after seeing this orange car I think Nissan should make the orange car the standard look of the new Z.

My only employee. He has one task, catch bugs. Looks like he will be filing a workman’s comp case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perfect dash and an AM radio. The electric antenna is original and works fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Passengers side Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could go extreme and get a top side creeper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Too bad the 280Z's don't generate the same excitement. Seems like the 240Z's are becoming collector things, like Pokemon cards. The value is in the scarcity. The value could disappear overnight once a new thing comes along. No offense intended, just a thought. https://cardcollector.co.uk/collecting-pokemon-cards/