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I'm a forum princess and should be treated that way.

Everything else is just an acquaintance.

Don't they use the same calendar in Neuvecelle as the rest of the world? This thread is 13 years old. mikewags hasn't visited the site since 2010. Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the group and I readily agree with your comments about the quality of feedback and support from this bunch as compared to some others. Simply put - you won't find a more helpful group of enthusiasts on the interweb! We do enjoy our friendly banter and sometimes wierd humor but you won't find flames and ridicule here. Here is a current restoration thread on the forum that has some super good A/C aspects. I know the poster personally and can assure you he will answer any questions about his installation: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64674-restoration-of-hls30-12070/ I have a build sheet from my resto project 10 years ago that might be of help in identifying parts that could be candidates for repair or replacement. We are all voyeurs at heart and love lots of pics so we'll all be looking forward to your progress reports. Jim

I don't need a woman. I won't take me no wife. I got the rock and roll and that'll be my life. No page in history, baby. That I don't need. I just wanna make some eardrums bleed! Sorry... I'm back now.

In the most recent Z that’s in getting parted, I found what must be the absolute pinnacle of ignition technology. Ok, maybe I’m thinking of 1978 , but anyway…. Anyone remember the brand name “HeathKit”?

Well, hadn’t thought about that. The good news is the engine never ran for more that 2-3 mins continuously. Temp didn’t get too hot. She’s finally under her own power....great feeling of accomplishment but still lots to work out...like an exhaust, and bleeding the front brakes, an alignment and torque down the remaining parts of the front suspension. She drove up here on here own power! Baby steps... At least I can get a good view from below now to make all that happen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's definitely not a hobby anymore. If I can find a magazine I kept from a few years ago with a 240 on the cover with the heading asking "Is it time to call old Japanese sports cars classics?"

Sorry, somehow the video dropped off the thread. Here it is again. Just put the propeller shaft back on and about to fill the transmission. She might move on her on power vs my back today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you can test it by having it shock you to see if it's working. And if it's blowed up, it's probably NOT working. Mental notes. Got it.

Have more pictures of the body? There looks like there is overspray on the door latch, was the car repainted? vertical defrosters? or is that something in the background? Woodworker eh? Add a custom shifter to your list of projects. IIRC AC in an early Z car was a dealer add-on, but you might be able to find bits and pieces of one from a 72-73 and make it work. 74+ cars have a different HVAC system. Some people (including me) went down the route of `Vintage Air` systems, essentially it replaces the whole HVAC system under the dash with a new unit. On a 240z its easier to take apart the switches that come wiht the vintage air unit and retrofit them into the HVAC panel for an OEM look, @qz16 has the cleanest vintage air control panel setup I've seen. But you're venturing into modification territory there.....

Edit - I should not have replied to the post. Should have let it fade away. Sorry. (Removed some stuff here). I only posted the graphic to show the physical distance. I did a Google on the name and zip code (weird that zip codes are global).

This still shows the prices are going up on these cars. A car like this with potential title branding, still goes for $5K (after fees) I still can't believe the low prices I paid for cars not all that long ago. I was out buying parts this afternoon. Picked up a set ZX turbo swastika wheels and a set of 4 screw carbs.

Have to be careful about dating that "princess" siteunseen! 😉

That was a pretty epic first post

Well, I had some challenges today getting the engine started but phoned a friend “Captain Obvious” and he steered a mere mortal like me to success. First we had no spark, we narrowed that down to a bad ignition unit on my ZX distributor, put in a backup then we had spark but no ignition. Fuel pressure was 35psi. I couldn’t smell fuel so we guessed that the injectors were not getting power. Had a old fuse link on the injector power that goes to + side of battery. Put the link on a multi-meter and it had higher resistance that expected. I had just bought a new one from Banzi Motorworks (didn’t want to install earlier incase if I had a bad connection I didn’t want to burn it up. ($38 part). Put that one one and it fired up. Here’s a link to a video of it starting and running after I got the timing set and idle adjustment close. Thanks for all the help! You guys are awesome! I owe Bruce more beer!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used to use a Sharpie and write the contents on the Ziploc baggie. That wears off fairly easy so write the contents on a small piece of paper and drop it inside the bag. Made my rebuild easier to put back together when the time came. Nice looking early '72. Glad you're here on the best forum. Cliff

Hot dang - that is one fine looking car! The quick and simple answer to your paint prep questions is YES - everything comes off for a good paint job. Bag and tag everything immediately as you remove it, don't rely on your memory. Become the zip bag king of your neighborhood! 😉 Throw nothing away until the replacement is installed. String tags are messy but effective at tagging both ends of electrical connections before they are pulled apart. Get some plastic tubs for your take-off parts and try to keep items closely associated in storage. Build a running "needs list" as you remove items that will need replacing. You can be acquiring the replacement items while the car is off at the paint shop. +1 on the lots of pics recommendation.

Welcome and nice car, Dadson. I also have a 9/71 build date car, HLS30-46372 (original owner), and it, too, has the vertical defroster grid found on the '71 models. I though that mine was a rare bird in that Nissan was likely using up a few old parts in the early '72 models. But your VIN looks to be about 1,000 units after mine so it seems there were more than just a few leftovers. My car came off a rotisserie earlier this year and is now undergoing restomod to become a 5-speed, triple Weber 45 carbs, 3.2 L stroker, 3.90 R200 diff beast (with Vintage Air A/C) and I'm hoping to get it back on the street this coming spring - depending on how cold the Ohio winter is going to be (unheated outbuilding). First bit of advice: take a LOT of pix before you begin removing bits and label, label, label.

Wow, Thank you all for the replies. Yes, the car was repainted (terribly) at some point. Not a big deal to me because I knew whatever we bought was probably getting a paint job. I was hoping the seats were original and something rare. Interesting about a possible dealer add in AZ. Would like to explore that. The fabric is in excellent condition and comfortable. But, it has a lot of sun fading. Was thinking about getting it re-dyed. I will probably turn a new shift knob on my lathe and see what I end up with. Does anyone know what species of wood was original? Great information on the ac and mods. Maybe I shouldn’t worry too much as long as I stay close but make it reversible…. Yes, I have the vertical defrost on the hatch. I heard that is harder to find. Other ‘72’s I’ve seen were horizontal. Maybe since mine was built 9/71 they hadn’t switched yet. Every piece of glass is original and chip/crack free. Yesterday was its last day on the road until we are finished with the project. Had to get it inspected so I could do the title work. We sandford and son’ed it up to the station and passed! . So now the real work begins. Since it is going to get a total paint job back to its original, my understanding is everything comes off and is just a roller when I bring it to a shop. I feel good about most of it but I’m pretty Intimidated about the dash and wiring. Is Removing everything for body and paint where I should start? Here’s a few pictures. ‘72 240z Kilimanjaro white vin 473XX

Sorry for stirring things up folks. I got carried away with what seemed funny about the first post. "Spend $14,000...you're welcome." Funny.

We'll see maybe. 👀

Heathkit has a place in my life for sure. My Dad and I built a number of kits in the late 60’s including, if you can believe it, our first color TV. Then shortly after we added the remote control option. It was an low ultra sonic transmitter. I could hear the beep tones when you push the buttons. The volume and channel knobs were powered and turned by a little teenie weenie fan belt and motor. You could see the knobs spinning from across the room! It definitely drove me to being the hands on tinkerer and eventually EE that I am proud now to be.

Did you do a compression check before disassembling?

😂 well I guess that’s one way to make sure it works.

I heard it run!!! Woo Hoo!! Congrats!! You're doing great! Beer!

Saw a mention about having a clogged bleed nipple on a different thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/65237-barefootdans-280z-build/?page=7&tab=comments#comment-631700 That would give you all the symptoms you're seeing, but it would be hard to believe that a) the nipple on your freshly rebuilt caliper is clogged, and b) the nipple on your old original caliper has the exact same issue. Not saying it's impossible, but certainly unlikely? In any event, it may be worth the five minutes it would take to find out.

Yes, try a crush washer

I not sure that would wash the title. It would still probably be salvage The rules have changed a lot in the last few years. This is getting harder to do

Some years ago one could clean up a branded Oregon title by registering the car in Washington, then back to Oregon. I believe they caught on to this some years back though.

Or...I could title it in Alabama with a bill of sale written on a Burger King bag, pre 1975 no title required just a bill of sale. There's a lot of stolen Northern cars down here still. My Dad said it was rampant in the '70s thru early '80s. My '72 was tiltled with a hand written bill of sale on back of a packing slip. Carried that to the Courthouse and paid $20? then got an Alabama title in my name in a couple of weeks.

I use Dorman 96034. Dorman 96034 on Amazon

I could definitely see that being confusing to someone who’s first language wasn’t English. Don’t worry, I work with several people where Dutch is their first language. You guys have it all twisted up! 😁