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I'm not saying that blocking the holes is your problem. I'm just focused on your testing methods. You haven't isolated the source of the problem to a smaller area. Everything after, and including, the switch is still in play.

Finally finished all the hook ups, re-wiring, hoses and cooling system. It took way more time than I expected. She’s was done at 3pm today but kids got off school bus so I need to wait until tomorrow. Like I said I hope it doesn’t blow up [emoji1787] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That also sounds like it might be ignition timing problem. when you set the distributor spindle timing, did you check the engine was at TDC #1 compression?

At the current price someone is going to get a great deal!! If only it were closer. 😞

I don't think you have to go full moon suit. An N95 ought tp be good enough to protect your lungs as long as you don't go sticking your face into a cloud of dust. What would concern me more is whatever might get into your eyes or you might pick up on your hands, hair and clothes and then inhale as you shake off the dust. Do that outside in a breeze blowing away from your loved ones. And, just to be realistic, not every exposure to Cr(VI) results in a cancer. It's the occupational exposures or, damn us all for allowing unbridled industrialism, the unknowing long-term exposure in your drinking water or air that will get you. Watch the movie Erin Brockovich.

Me either 🙂

About 100 miles for me. Not too keen on the re-VIN or reconstructed title either. Plus it says the seller has to approve the sale. Like I need another project. lol

Get some Tarn-X, dielectric grease, rotary tool (Dremel) with a small wire cup brush. Here is a fusible link I replaced many years ago. I put it in some Tarn-X for less than a minute, rinsed, and beat the water out. Here is how the fusible link box looked when I took off the links. Here's how it looked after some work with the wire brush. I coated the terminals with dielectric grease and replaced the links. Try that, and re-test.

Okay, final step before filling the cooling system today was to flush the heater core. Ran a garden hose in the inlet and a hose out the outlet to a bucket. Ran for fresh water for 5 mins, then filled the core with Distilled Vinegar and let set 30 mins, flushed again and ran vinegar again sitting 30 mins and ran fresh water and then blew out all remaining liquid. The water ran brown the first 15 secs on first flush. I got a fair bit of debris out of the core and that stuff that won’t be in my engine. Of note, when flushing the vinegar out after sitting 30 mins, the water came out green for the first 15-20 secs, I’m assuming glthat was build up on the copper coils. Here’s the particles in the bottom of the bucket. Now I have to flush the tankless water heater for the house, it’s time and I have all the gear out already. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is some recent action from this past weekend at Laguna Seca: Saturday: Sunday:

I had the same problems with my energy suspension poly bushings. My solution was a block of wood cut to length and wedged between the body and the swaybar. The top nut was fastened a couple of turns and then I used a jack to push the control arm up and compress the bushes enough to fit the lower nut. The photos might make it a little clearer🤔

Looking at the BASF Glasurit 801-703 chromated epoxy primer's safety data sheet (SDS), it is a "horror show" from the perspective of having cancer causing ingredients which include both the solvent xylene as well as the "active ingredients" strontium and barium chromate. Chromate is what we chemists call "chromium six", abbreviated as Cr(VI), and it is exceeding dangerous in long-term occupational exposure. If you work with such a product, it is probably not too bad when you are applying the wet mixture - but do that with proper ventilation and other PPE, please. But, if you EVER have to sand, media blast or otherwise disturb the dry film - even years later - you absolutely need to do so outdoors, fully protected and well away from any area where people or animals would be likely to roam afterwards. Literally, that dust could end up killing you. I once worked on a contract for the USAF to clean up the waste streams from a parts reconditioning facility in Utah that did a lot of electroplating with, among other things, cadmium and Cr(VI) solutions. By the time the waste streams got to the treatment facility, the Cr(VI) and mostly been reduced to chromium four, Cr(IV), which is still every bit as dangerous as Cr(VI) but not as reactive. I always wondered about the folks who had to haul the sludge away to a HAZMAT landfill.

Funny how "temporary" is a relative term in "temporary repairs". Re: inspections, gotta love the thinking of government.

For reference here are some pictures of what my RH fender looked like when I removed it, before and after cleaning. When I did my first restoration on this car in 1982 and I had new fenders (from my local Datsun dealer) put on. No special sealing or rust proofing was done beyond what I think was a light prime and top coat over the factory primer. After 39 years only a small amount of debris had accumulated and after cleaning I found no paint bubbling and virtually no rust. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. Full disclosure, since 1982 only about 25K miles have been added. After the first few years of light daily driving (no winters) it's been infrequent pleasure use only in good weather, but I have been caught in a few downpours.

the spindle that came out with the oil pump sets the timing on the distributor. I expect your ignition timing is advanced. there are many threads on here about timing the oil pump and distributor spindle.