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Well, there was the time I spent about 3 hours trying to figure out why my battery voltage dropped to zero as soon as I turned the key to ON. I was sure there was a short. I just had to disconnect the right thing... Oh, the battery was bad. It had potential, but it didn't have the energy to drive current. As soon as it had a load, there was no more potential. Now, you can think that you wasted your time, or you can realize that you learned something about how to diagnose electrical circuits with an ohmmeter. Okay, it's time for one more door open story. Around 40 years ago, my brother was installing a new stereo into the family's 68 Mustang. He needed to find a wire that went to ground. Searching around, he found one. He finished the install, and the stereo was cranking out the tunes. So after putting tools away, he got in the car and was going to drive around and enjoy blasting the music, only the stereo wasn't working anymore. So he stopped, got his tools out, but the stereo worked fine again. Shortly he realized that the ground wire he selected happened to be downstream of the dome light. When the door was open, the switch was closed, and the stereo worked. With the doors closed, the stereo lost its ground. He found another ground wire for the stereo.

Well, as many I think have suspected, this looks to be filed under "user error". I closed the PS door, rechecked all switches at the steering column(headlights, turn signals, etc etc). Rechecked, and I'm now reading about 23 ohms. Well, better safe than sorry, I guess. I think the experience of watching the insulation burn off a wire in real time kinda traumatized me. I'm gonna button everything back up, save for the alternator, and make sure I'm seeing 12V at the proper wire, and then call it a day. Thanks for all the help, folks!!!

I appreciate all your help, guys. I am honestly fine spending the time on this, if the end result is A)I'm confident in my wiring, and b) I learn some things about diagnosing electrical issues. Thanks!

I did it in the beginning, but didn't like the protruding valence under the bumper. I'm with @cgsheen1 on the looks. I decided to go with the 240Z air-dam and 240Z indicators under the bumper.

@dylancorrea1Your not starting the car during a compression test so don’t be concerned about creating any more damage. If you have questions on doing it properly please ask questions where we can help. Good luck and pass on your findings. A cold test should give you some idea.

Aren't "collector cars" fun!

This is not enough to really begin making guesses. Remove the spark plugs and examine them. They can tell you a lot about what's happening in the cylinders. You'll have to remove them anyway to measure cylinder pressure. The fact that it runs means that you can listen to it and mess with it while it is running. You can learn a lot that way also. The coolant might be a "red herring". Irrelevant to the running problem.

Good. That's exactly what my intention was.

Not really a good idea to run without a temp or oil gauge. So it probably ran hot, warped the head, possibly scored the cylinders. It's gonna need some major investigation. I would pull the head and check for flatness. Well I might run a compression test first...

No one, I hope... Just me, but I really don't like the 280 "bulb" valence with the 240 style bumper - screws with the line of the headlight bucket. To my eye, the bumper above is also too "high and tight". It accentuates the bucket / valence offset rather than minimizing it if it were a bit lower and protruded a bit farther. Well,,, You asked!

So when I was working on the gearbox a couple months ago, I knew that I needed to change the clutch // get the flywheel resurfaced. I took advise from some other members and went with a light weight flywheel from Fidanza and a turbo clutch to keep an OEM clutch feel. Because of this I was forced to buy a new clutch collar to pair with the clutch. Here is the thread. Clutch was an Exedy 06030 (Rock Auto) Flywheel was Fidanza 143281 (Amazon) Here are the clutch collar related parts that I used: (Coutesey Nissan Texas) 32862-E9300 Control Lever Boot $5.94 1 $5.94 30501-K0404 Bearing Sleeve $24.13 1 $24.13 32710-14600 Seal-Oil $1.22 1 $1.22 30534-E9000 Clutch Release Arm Spring $2.33 1 $2.33 30514-14600 Clutch Release Bearing Clip $4.25 1 $4.25 I matched the year of the clutch kit from the suppliers catalog with the OEM part that nissan would have had in that car. If you already have the parts you want to install, then measuring the pressure plate like Jeff suggested is the way to go.

Smaller project knocked out last night. My headlight/wiper combo switch wasn’t looking so great, and I had an intermittent headlight issue with the switch itself. So, decided to pull it completely apart, polish and restore the plastic bits, clean up contacts, and new terminals on the harness. Works great now.

I would think you could shape that piece fairly easily. Make a rectangular patch. Make the hard crease in a vise. Shape the curve over a piece of pipe

I found switching the short hardlines from passenger's side to driver's side & vise versa lessened the bending required. When you get into it give that a look. May be helpful? Was for my car.

I'd put a rag over the drain bucket just to see if any rust or crud comes out. Panty hose from the $ store would be good too. They'll look at you funny, just tell them your straining paint.

If you have an electric pump you can disconnect up by the filter and pump most of it out. You can also disconnect the outlet hose at the tank if you want control of the first few gallons. Easier to use Vise-grips on the hose than trying to get the plug back in if your container fills up.

We used the drain plug, way faster and easier...it's there for a reason just like the one on your engine. 😉

Well, dyno day came and the car did quite well. Despite a dead O2 sensor that needed replacing, my tuner Matt did a stellar job clearing up the fuel tables and working his magic making the car run smooth and idle properly. IMG_5656.MP4