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I’ve been working on my air cleaner box for a bit and finally got to paint. I didn’t get many good before pics. This one is shortly after starting stripping. The box was more rusty than the cover. I’m “probably” not going to go as crazy on it as I did the lid, but I tend to not be content until things look satisfactory to me. After some primer and some sanding. After some more primer and a couple coats of paint. Wasn’t that pleased with it so I wet sanded it and covered it again a week later. A little better, but I may hit it again after another block sanding in the future. I did paint the box too and the charcoal/evap canister bracket. The box is very pitted but mostly where you can’t see it. I did fill some areas that can be seen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm in. We loaded 4 Zs on a trailer yesterday from our club (ZONC Z Owners of Northern California). And am thrilled we get to see the new Z in person.

Interesting, Good eye @Captain Obvious. My front suspension is out so I thought I would check the clamps on my 7/70. I took the left clamp of and took measurements of the angle for the forward and rearward ends. The forward end measured 56 degrees and the rear measured 50 degrees, the bottom face was quite parallel for both ends. Thanks for posting this, I probably would have missed it. Good reference for when I go to reassemble at the end of my resto.

The threadlock stuff is probably something like "90% strength after 24 hours, but could take up to a week to reach full strength". That's the typical ambiguous CYA cure statements they usually use. I think the CA based stuff requires steel ions and either moisture or lack of air to activate or something like that. There's a chance that the zinc plating on the hardware could slow it down some. In any event, I would be willing to give it a twist after it sat for 24 hours and see what happens. I also know that tight fitting threads would hold better. Some of the hardware store stuff is so sloppy that you're asking the threadlock to fill too large of a gap. Here's hoping you're good!

Finally took the car to a friend's garage to change the valve seals on cylinder 4. He argues that its not oil but gasoline on the spark plug ring and that its due to the lack of vacuumn at such cylinder. This doesnt make much sense. Nevertheless, we will change the seal to see whats going on inside.

I am probably the one that told you to pull it off. My car does good without all that stuff. I might need some blue garden hose though.

I would try loctite red to glue wingnuts to the ends of two of the threaded rods. Makes quick and dirty "long length wing-bolts". Since they are just hand tightened, loctite red might be strong enough. If not something else like solder, braze, or weld if the loctite won't hold. Been a while since I looked at them in detail. but I think the originals are brazed. And for the receiving end, do what you had before... Stud threaded into the carbs and coupler on the other end to accept the newly created wing-bolts. Flat and rubber washers under the wingnuts. Cup washers optional.

Sorry I'm late to the party but if you ever have to do it again. I've always gotten lucky and pulled a rope with a wood "handle" up through the hole in the tunnel as the transmission goes further back. Then tie it off when it's level and let the wood hold it in place until I can get the transmission mount mounted.

Took a couple more close up pics of the new bushing.

I was tearing the garage apart looking for some lost parts I had put in a "safe place" this morning, came across this boat anchor and thought of your post. Some of the valleys are rough and I don't know the history of the part, but I wont be putting AC on my car so PM me if needed.

I'll respond later. You've also had a meltdown in the parking light circuit. I can tell from the photos. Let me give you a detailed response.

I read about that port closure. I had heard from a bird that there “might” be issues at Whitehead but I feel better knowing you had a good experience. I’ll order from there and see what happens. His prices are way better than CA Datsun and he does distinguish between 240z and 280z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Doubtful but possible? The gusseting on the curves should make that relatively difficult. I think you could bend an ear down, but I'm seeing differences further up the radius.

Here's some pics of the rack retaining straps that try to show the asymmetry I noticed. I've never ever seen any chatter about it, but it appears to me that these straps have a "front and a back"? The difference is subtle... I've included a sketch I whipped up to exaggerate and highlight the difference: The jury is still out on which way the straps should be installed, but here's what I found. I think the more gradual end goes towards the front of the car, but since I've never been in possession of a rack that hasn't been worked on in the past, I can't be sure: Thoughts from the collective?

So I was able to find rubber bushings for the steering rack but it seems people prefer the poly there. I guess it provides better steering response? I just don’t want any squeaking so hopefully that’s not a problem. I have rubber for all other bushings. So Captain Obvious made an interesting observation regarding the steering rack brackets, the ones that connect the rack to the crossmember. There are two half moon shaped brackets and looking at them they appear symmetrical but he had noticed a slight variation in them. I went to test fit mine on the rack and discovered there is a front and back to these brackets. If you put them on wrong there is a noticeable gap in the rear matting surface. Astonishing, he was able to see the suttle difference in the way the bracket transitions to horizontal on the outer flange of the bracket. See pics below. Also I was able to find a set of Eibach Lowering at California Datsun. They way more money there but I don’t have a lot of options with COVID supply shortage on everything. Anyway that vendor doesn’t delineate between 240z and 280z Eibach springs like all other online vendors. Can anyone confirm that the springs would in fact be different? MSA has 240z Eibach springs but not 280z in stock. This makes me think there is a difference. Please pipe in if you know the answer or have an opinion about an alternative spring that is available, Votglands. I need a solution, as I’m planing to build the rack and suspension back up in the next 14 days. Sent the crossmember out for powder coat yesterday.

@Patcon They might have kissed the corner just before the picture was taken since - would be some real tight driving if so. Could also be some dips in the road we can't see. Even so, it would take some power to keep those wheels off the ground for long.

I mamed my dog from this.

Maybe a parking permit sticker for someone who makes sandwiches at a New Delhi deli? 😎

Thanks! Yeah, it’s the lighting or however my phone decides to pick it up. It’s done with Duplicolor Pontiac Blue Engine Enamel DE1610. Not sure how close it really is, but I think it’s good enough. Not as dark as the dark pics and doesn’t seem as light as the light ones, ha. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/enginepaint.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's something I tried on a spare tire locking nut that worked. Find a socket that fits over the nut but has a small gap between it and the nut. Fill the socket with a ring or blob of SteelStick, press it over the nut and let it cure. You've just made your own "key". It is amazingly strong stuff. https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick

I could dig out and reinstall the original parts and get somewhere around $39K for mine I think. Hagerty guy from Birmingham appraised it at $40K a few years ago after looking at it.

I've blessed mine in ways I'm sure aren't very Hindu.

If you have an Android phone, download the Google Lens app and take a picture of the decal. The app will then show you several similar designs as well as the one you have. I found the same decal in red listed as available at the website buyer.jp if you need a spare. Technology and boredom on a hot day have no bounds.😎

For those of you who will be at ZCON 2021, after the NY reveal of the new Z on August 17, Nissan will be taking the car on the road...to arrive in Colorado Springs to be shown on August 20.

I did not know this. That, plus the equal weights, would explain why the manufacturers dropped the 225 only flywheel. It's just not necessary. I wonder why even call it a 240 mm flywheel. Seems pointless. 7.5 mm extra friction surface diameter.

I think Zed and Dave answered your questions, but just to add to trivia info. The 240mm and 225mm are the same weight 23lbs in all the 240Z, 260Z and 280Z/ZX. That is not the case for the 720 truck. It has a much heavier flywheel and a very wide ratio gearbox. The 225mm clutch and pressure plate will work on the 240mm flywheel, but the 240mm clutch disc and pressure plate will not work on the 225mm flywheel. Most parts suppliers have the later 280ZX 225mm or 240mm pressure plate and clutch disc, and I believe you will have trouble finding a 225mm flywheel. Most suppliers will give you a 240mm flywheel simply because it suits both sizes and is the same weight. If your old pressure plate was the original type then you have the original 240Z throw out bearing collar and you will need to find one to suit the 280ZX pressure plate. The bearing on the collar is the same dimmension through the 240Z to 300ZX.

@Tweeds never said more than one person was involved...