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We destroyed this topic a short while ago.

Perfect Mike, all the data helps being able to replicate the markings on 7mm plug wires. Making up my own screen print to do so. Found some new old stock distributor caps with the brass inserts to use with replicated wires. Roo

I decided to start with 1500 grit just to see if I could save some effort and fortunately it worked, the 1500 removed the dust particles and orange peel, then down to 2000. I've used Meguiars Pro Speed Compound in the past and had good results but I heard about Menzerna's Heavy Cut Compound so thought I would give it a try. Well it's the cats arse, it cut through the 2000 scratches easily and some of the 1500 scratches that I missed, it cuts very quickly, I have one side of the car done, about 90% polished out and I think I will leave it there until most of the car is reassembled, without a doubt there will be bumps, chips and scratches to repair by the time it's all back together. In the first pic the panel to the left has been polished out with the Menzena's, the rest of the panel to the right still has the 2000 grit surface.

Yes, that might also be an option. I could jacket the line just at the zip tie points by sleeving it with 1/4 inch line to prevent rubbing and then secure it. Its only temporary for a couple of years until the transmission has to come out. Thanks for the input.

Congrats on getting it running

You might try water-soluble UV dye. I've used similar dyes in oils and AC leak tracing. https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/uv-light-and-accessories/autopro-antifreeze-coolant-leak-detector-uv-dye-8-oz/835773_0_0

The fan only has an effect at very slow speeds. If you're seeing high temperatures while cruising at, like, 20 mph or higher, it's not a fan problem. Unless the fan and shroud are actually blocking air flow. Run-on (dieseling) is usually caused by running rich, carbon deposits in the combustion chamber getting hot.

I’m measuring temp based on the gauge, I know it’s running hot because I’m still getting run on when I turn off the car, there may be air getting in somewhere so I will check with some carb cleaner and see if I hear any change in RPM. For the cooling system I’ve flushed it twice before running the car and have all new fluid in there, also know it’s flowing well from some small leaks I had and fixed. I may be running Lean so I’ll mess with the carbs s bit and see if it fixed anything. Heading over where the car is before class and will take a look at the impeller blades

Good idea. I will get a few more dimensions and do that soon. Edit, link added

My 71 had two springs when I got it. I used to remove one spring during track days to speed up timing advance. The engine will work fine with one spring or two.

We have colanders here in Utah; https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2014/11/17/pastafarian-drivers-license/19200447/

Thanks Roo, I'm old school, so most of my cad work starts with a hand sketch. I sill have a drafting table in my home office. Using wire number three as an example the wire numbers are 5mm tall and 56mm center to center. Except where the YAZAKI 1970 markings are, for those the numbers are 73mm c/c. Number 3 appears 11 times, like this: 73-56-56-56-56-73-56-56-56-56

Before balancing carbs you have to check all the other variables, you have done that exept a compressiontest. (?) Now i hear you say.. but it's a new rebuild block, yes but people make mistakes. I once asked the same a mercedes driver with a new not working rebuild engine, at first he got a bit angry.. IT'S A NEW ENGINE.. yes i sayd but people make mistakes.. later on it ran and the engine builder had made a woopsie.. my advice is check and double check.. don't assume, just check a list of things that could be wrong. Everyone is blaming the carbs, they could be right but it could be so much other things why the car does not pull.. On the old carbs you have.. rebuild them, use them on your block for testing and later on you can sell those for more than you paid for the rebuild.. you can get rebuild sets easy for them! good luck! Mart.

Haha, only the red nose is failing haha.. funny.. BOJO !! 🤡

No offence taken! Bojo the clown is a very intelligent man who looks like a clown and whose moral compass only points towards the direction of his own personal gain! Much like many other politicians worldwide. Back to the original post, I am still intrigued by this car. It simply defies logic at that price.

Yep.. I had my 240z 1971 distributor cleaned up 20 years ago and... IT HAD ONLY ONE SPRING IN IT.. May be a modification from Nissan? Could be that there is something in the service bulletins Nissan regularly brought out? ?? I to wondered then why only one spring but i did'nt change it in 2 springs and it ran and runs still with one spring till this day!

OK, that's good. So, the way I see it is this: 1. It's not oil on the plug itself 2. Your coil is healthy and your mix on that carb is OK as the rest on that bank of 3 are not getting fouled the same way 3. I am making an assumption without reading up the thread that you have done your valve lash adjustments and that they are consistent across those three cyls. 4. I think I recall you doing a compression test showing no.4 is pretty much inline with the rest in compression, so you don't have compression issues or valves leaking issues. Assuming this is an electrical issue (which is what we're left with after discounting the above) and also assuming that all three plugs in your photos have the same heat rating, you need to identify why that one isn't getting enough spark / energy for a full burn. Some thoughts: a. The spark plug itself: Have you tried swapping one of the other spark plugs into cyl 4 to prove the plug itself isn't the issue? Let's prove the spark plug itself doesn't have a hairline crack or other issues. Does no.4 always foul regardless of which plug is in it? b. Ignition leads: Have you tried a different set of ignition leads or swapped, say no.4 lead with no.3 lead (both on the distributor cap and at the spark plug) to ensure the lead isn't at fault? - I once had a Magnecore KV85 lead with intermittent issues (after 6 years) that had the same symptoms as you are experiencing. It drove me nuts until I found it. I only discovered the issue after bench testing. In the car, it's very difficult to tell if it's firing ALL the time - our eyes are simply not quick enough to see it. But on the bench with an ohm meter connected to both ends, I could see the resistance changing from tens of KΩ to hundreds of MΩ when I wiggled it. When I raised it with them under their 10 year warranty, the owner at Magnecore was just unbelievably condescending, claiming it's impossible for their leads to fail and it's always the customers' fault for not unplugging the leads regularly!! Gobsmacked, I didn't waste my time and money sending them back and made my own for a fraction of the cost - not only do they fit perfectly but they have worked flawlessly since. - Also, does the HT lead "click" as you push it onto the spark plug terminal? Make sure you have a good connection. On that note, inspect the HT lead for signs of corrosion / arcing. When a spark jumps a gap between the lead contact and the spark plug terminal, it leaves a powdery white / greenish residue on the HT lead contact. It's a sure tell-tail sign of spark jumping rather than a good conductive connection. c. Distributor: Have you inspected the inside of the distributor cap for any damage on no.4 or any obvious signs / issues? Have you tried a totally different distributor cap? Is there any wobble in the distributor shaft that may be consistently affecting no.4 (this is unlikely but worth a check)? In fact, what distributor are you using? Are you on points or electronic ignition? If on points, could the dizzy cam be worn for no.4 and causing less "dwell" time? d. Spark plug seat on the head: Have you cleaned the threads on the head? Sometimes, when the heads are painted, you can end up with paint on the spark plug hole threads / seating area that causes resistance, reducing spark energy. This is unlikely but worth eliminating. Use a very small amount of paint thinners or carb cleaner (carefully) and a small wire brush to ensure that where the spark plug seats itself has a good electrical connection. I say carefully as you don't want thinners getting into the cylinder and contaminating the oil, or small metal particles ending up in the cyl. Good luck fella - we're rooting for you!

You wash it first in normal washingmachine detergent.. And if needed you could also use some sunflower oil. 😉

Don’t laugh at me but I always found extra virgin olive oil has brought back plastics!!! Probably zero uv protection, but if you want to bring a faded black bit of vinyl to life, it just works! :p

After seeing this thread, I had to go out to the garage and check out my D612-52 dizzy I picked up on eBay, supposedly off of a barn find parked in 1978. Also came with a nice set of Sumitomo plug wires dated coded 1977. anyway, after tearing it down, it also only had the single spring, FWIW. Dan

I took it off and it sure appears that it is the source of the oil leak. I don't think it's necessarily a failed gasket, but more that the bolt I pointed out has come loose and isn't holding the plate down. I will clean it up and replace the gasket (and bolt) and I think we will be good to go.

Okay got it, I’ll connect the yellow to the ballast resistor wire tomorrow before I get started, I see now how I am grounding it. I’ll test the wires this time with the key on to also make sure I am getting the right one Thank you guys so much for your help

In controls vernacular the yellow wire is a "signal". In this case, the ignition being on signals the fan that it is okay to run if the engine is hot.

Of course, geologically, the U.K. has never been part of a continent (you didn't capitalize). Just saying! Boris will proclaim the U.K. as a separate continent soon, minus Ireland. No offense. That guy is quite the character though. Pretty incredible, what he's doing, what's going on in general. Good luck. To all of us.

Are you sure that is not just carbon on this plug? As if running too rich or not having enough spark? Here are two of mine for comparison from the old engine that used to drink 1L of oil every 500 miles. That engine was definitely burning oil. Now see the difference to yours: you can see they are shiny and have solid deposits on them. Yours from the photo, looks matt and dry as if it’s carbon. By all means go take the head off to put your mind at rest but I genuinely think you have another issue here. If you are still convinced it’s the seals then do what has been suggested first - namely replace the seals WITHOUT removing the head.

On the subject of pilot bushing (bearing) removal, here's the strangest and possibly the most effective method I've ever tried. I couldn't remove the pilot bearing from our RX 7. Small puller, regrinding the tips, nothing worked. An old mechanic friend asked me if I tried bread. I immediately asked, "What the hell are you talking about? He said stuff bread into the bearing center and get a bolt slightly smaller than the bearing center. Smack the bolt and add more bread. After repeating those two steps three times the bearing slid right out, to my amazement.

Yeah.. Amazon... I don't like Amazon.. the way those people work.. so i avoid them.. I like to pay a bit more for that local guy! Then he stays in business, know what i mean?

both weights are constrained by the one spring - the unsprung weight can only move out in its slot as the advance plate rotates, and the advance plate advancing is resisted by the spring on the other weight. thus a single spring has a faster advance curve than 2 springs.

WAY too cheap. 240Z values have risen significantly, and if your car is solid, with little or no rust, it is worth much more than you are asking. You could do yourself a favor by doing the following: 1) change the asking price to 'best offer', and also change your CL ad the same way 2) have a look at auction results on BaT (bringatrailer.com), where a variety of 240Z cars have been auctioned off in the last couple of years. Pay close attention to the cars that have sold in the last year. That will give you an idea of current values. 3) add many more photos, including engine bay, underside, floors, rocker panels, hatch area floor, document the low miles with photos of service records of you have them etc. Best wishes for your sale.