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About M3333hp

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  1. M3333hp

    Need small amt. of black firewall insulator material

    Mike, I received the firewall material -- Thanks! It's just what I need to fix my firewall material. Look for an envelope in the mail soon ….. Pete
  2. https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/wto/d/bellevue-datsun-240z-280z-stock-oem/6792822848.html Three TOPY steel wheels dated 1971 Two TOPY steel wheels dated 1976 In Bellevue, WA These are rare, most were scrapped. I have no financial interest in these, just want to alert anyone who needs them for a restoration.
  3. https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/d/north-manchester-1973-datsun-240z/6789955618.html Yes it's a '73, but looks to be original and has been in the same family since '94. About 45K miles. Green, with one repaint. Yes it has the flat tops, but well worth a look.
  4. hiyabrad, I was able to get the thickness of the disks I have measured, and they are right at the wear limit , so if they were turned they would be even thinner than the wear limit. They are not going to work for you. Sorry about that.
  5. I have a pair of used brake rotors like the one in your photo. They will need to be turned, and I will need to mic them to see if they can be turned and then successfully used afterward. Do you know what year cars were those particular rotors with the square open slots used on?
  6. M3333hp

    Caswell Zinc Copy CAD Plating kit. New

    Hi zKars. Pete here. I'll buy your Caswell plating kit. And I'm in Canada, too....BC to be exact. If you could figure the shipping (cheapest way...does not need to be fast) and let me know how you want to be paid I'll get the payment done. My postal code for the shipping is V9P 9J2 If you want to take this off Classic Z car for my ship address I'm at this email: cain@uwo.ca
  7. M3333hp

    Need small amt. of black firewall insulator material

    CanTechZ, Thanks a lot for finding this bit of firewall material. I think I can use it and make it work for me even if it's slightly different. I just have a few pretty small spots to fill in. If you could get me a piece that's about 5 X 8 inches that would work, or 2 pieces that add up to 5 X 8, total. If you can find some that's fairly flat that would be best. If not that's OK, I can heat it up a little and put some weight on it to flatten. I don't need the soft padding (foam?) on the back, if you can get it off fairly easily. You could sandwich it between 2 pieces of cardboard and put it in an envelope and that would work. I'd like to send you some $$ for the postage....let me know. I'm on Vancouver Island. Can you contact me at: cain@uwo.ca for my address? If you are ever on the Island you would be welcome to visit my garage. LOTS of things that are different about the very early cars. Cheers, Pete
  8. M3333hp

    Need small amt. of black firewall insulator material

    Namerow, I forgot to answer your question---I'm in BC. Pete
  9. M3333hp

    Need small amt. of black firewall insulator material

    Hi Namerow Did you find any of the black early 240Z firewall material that I posted about on ClassicZCars 'wanted' page? If yes please let me know. Thanks! Pete
  10. Wanted: a small amount of the original black firewall insulator material for restoration of a January 1970 car. Does anyone have some small pieces of *original* black firewall insulator material that mounts against the firewall inside the passenger compartment? ---see the photo below I need it for a restoration I am doing, and I want to retain the original firewall insulator that came in my car, but I need some small pieces of the material to fill a couple of voids in my insulator. I need about 10 to 15 square inches of the insulator material, but if anyone has a bit more than that it would be welcome. A piece that’s 3 X 5 inches would work. I do not need the jute material that’s glued to the back side of the insulator. I just need the stiff black insulator material. I will pay for the material and the shipping, which I think could be easily done by sandwiching the piece(s) between cardboard and mailing in a manila envelope. Below is a photo of the textured material that I need to match the insulator material in my car. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I know there has been discussion here of the firewall insulator before, and I don‘t want to redo that discussion, so…….. I want to retain my original insulator because 1) the aftermarket insulators are made of different materials than the original 2) the aftermarket insulators I have seen have a different pattern of holes and cutouts compared to the insulator in my car. Thanks! Pete
  11. M3333hp

    country of origin of HLS30-00957

    @Zed Head You’re right, I did mix up who said exactly what. It was member 240dkw who said “I really do not think he [that is, me] is trying to mess with any VIN”, not you. But that’s not all there is to say about that. Notice that member 240dkw responded to what you said by saying that he didn’t think I was “trying to mess with any VIN”. That shows that he interpreted your comments as suggesting that the VIN of my car might have been messed with, possibly by me. Likewise, I also thought that your comments suggested that the VIN of my car might have been messed with. Like commenter 240dkw, I also wondered why you talked about “reVINing” cars, and about a member from Oregon [which I was told was where my car came from] who “feels fine with moving VIN tags over to different bodies”. You were asking questions that both member 240DKw and I interpreted as implying that someone, possibly me, had “messed with the VIN”. And why did you also say: “Not sure why you're not giving more info. Is it one of those sketchy ‘lost title’ cars? The Oregon guy drove it in to Canada and left it maybe? No offense intended but the story has holes”, and that I “did not appear to have proper paperwork” and “Apparently he doesn’t have any transaction paperwork” and “he might not even have proof that the car is his”. Saying that a “story has holes” and those other comments above clearly implies that the storyteller---me---is possibly, or probably, being dishonest. You have no information that would lead to those potentially damaging conjectures. To bring up “reVINing” cars and someone from Oregon who “feels fine with moving VIN tags over to different bodies” in a discussion about my Oregon car is remarkable in the worst possible way, and potentially damaging to me. And saying that “...maybe there are problems with the title or will be in the future” and that “It kind of looks like [I’m] seeking information to help [me] get a proper title” adds nothing other than negative, totally unfounded, doubts about me and the car. You could have asked whether I have a proper title for the car, showing the VIN that I included in my description of the car, or about anything else about the car, but instead you seem to have assumed the worst. As for your comment that “The car has all of the ID tags removed”, it’s surprising that you would take that to mean there are doubts about the car’s authenticity as HLS30-00957. It’s normal for many owners to remove the door plate and the engine bay plate when there’s a compete repaint from the bare shell so there’s no overspray on the plates or need to mask them, which usually looks bad. If you had asked about those tags, or about the VIN etched (not stamped) on the firewall instead of assuming the worst, I could have explained that to you. Your comments that I “did not appear to have proper paperwork” and that I “didn’t mention that had a proper title” are amazing, since there was no reason for you to think those things. All you had to do was ask.....not assume the worst. Those kinds of comments could create doubts about the accuracy of my description of the car as HLS30-00957, whether you intended to create those doubts or not. And that could be very damaging to me and possibly also to whoever owns the car after me when I eventually sell it. I am very surprised that you would be so reckless in your comments on this site, especially since this is the best known website for vintage Z cars. There are reasons why I did not list every piece of information that you think was important or necessary for my request at the top of this thread. Things like the fact that I do not want to name the seller here without knowing that he is OK with that, that the seller was Canadian, not from Oregon, and I that have not been able to contact him because he has moved. Contrary to your implication, I do know the seller’s name and former address, but have not been able to contact him. Unfortunately I don’t have the names or records from any previous owners before him. That's why I posted on this site asking for information. You could have just accepted my approach to asking for help as I did, or you could have requested more information from me, but instead you made a number of very negative assumptions about the situation and about my intentions, and then you broadcast them here, on the best known website about vintage Z cars. I don’t know why you would do that, but I resent your unfounded implications and your approach to “discussion”, which seems to be to assume the worst about someone’s intentions. I think it would be best for everyone, especially for this wonderful site, if you and I had no further communication. @wal280z Thank you for your comments and the tip about the @. I appreciate it. @Carl Beck @240DKW @240260280 @Mark Maras @26th-Z
  12. M3333hp

    country of origin of HLS30-00957

    @Carl Beck @240DKW Thanks very much for your responses. Carl, yes this is Peter in Nanoose Bay, BC. I think I contacted you previously asking you the question about my car's history---whether it was initially sold in the US. But advancing age, I guess, caused me to forget our previous contact and to alert you to my question yet again. Anyway, thanks for the information in your comments. That's helpful, and I'll try to follow that route up. 240DKW, I agree that I can look to the original engine that's in the car to prove that my car, 0957, has a US build and not a Canadian build. Thanks for pointing that out. The fact that the seller told me that it was an Oregon car is consistent with the US build features on the engine. As to whether that's enough to prove to US authorities, should someone want to do that, that the car originally came from the US is not unclear, but might be worth trying. The question is whether that would be convincing to authorities if someone were to try (re)importing the car into the US.
  13. M3333hp

    country of origin of HLS30-00957

    Zed Head, Thanks for your comments, but there is no problem with the title for this car, nor is there any other kind of issue like that. I have a clean British Columbia title for the car, and my name is on it as the owner. The two stamped VIN tags and the VIN etched on the firewall all match. This car is HLS30-00957, and the clean British Columbia title carries that same VIN. I’m not sure what holes you think the car or my story has, but the simple fact is that I just want to know where the car was first sold: the US or Canada? Like a lot of other owners, I want to know the history of my car, which came to me with no useful history, unfortunately. For example, if my car is ever sold to someone in the US I imagine that person would want to know where the car came from, especially since if it was originally sold in the US they would be free of having to pay duty to re-import the car back into the US --- if a US origin could be documented on official paperwork. Also, there is a restoration issue with the intake/emissions configuration, where Canadian cars had the ‘clean’ Euro balance tube on the intake manifold, but US cars had a different balance tube and lots of emissions equipment mounted there. I want the restoration to be accurate, and I think most Z car fans would want that too. I’m not sure why you think I might be messing with the VIN. I have owned two 240Zs in my life, the first being HLS30-03778 which I owned from 1974 to 2003, and which the buyer sold on BaT not long ago. I purchased my 2nd 240Z---the car being discussed here---about 6 years ago in British Columbia and I am pumping a LOT of $$ and sweat equity into a ground-up restoration. I want to do it right, and to do that I need to know where the car came from, plain and simple. I have been around cars all my life, I own 4 performance cars right now, I am serious about them, and I want this 240Z resto to be right. Mark Maras, Thanks for your post. That’s exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. I’ll find that thread and read it. It might give me a good lead to follow. Thanks for the comments everyone.
  14. M3333hp

    country of origin of HLS30-00957

    I get your point, 240260280. Your CDN car has the Euro balance tube without all the emissions stuff on it that the US cars got. My previous car, HLS30-03778, had the Euro balance tube also, and I bought that one from the original owner, in Vancouver, BC, and it was a CDN car from day 1. My current car, HLS30-00957, came with the original engine, per the engine bay data plate and engine number on the block, but it had the US balance tube, which, along with the claim by the seller that it was an Oregon car, tells me that it was sold new in the US. But that's not enough to prove that it's a US car if someone ever wanted to import it back to the US free and clear. BTW, I'm guessing you are somewhere in the East from the snow in your pics. I'm on Vancouver Island and the last time I had to shovel snow out of my driveway was in Feb 2012. We don't get much snow here. Cheers.
  15. M3333hp

    country of origin of HLS30-00957

    Thanks Zed head. I'm not sure where that chassis model identification table came from, but I have a database of hundreds of cars/VINs/photos of No. American 240Zs and none of them have a 'U' on any of the dataplates, or the firewall. Anyway, the car was in Canada when I bought it, so no info from the US came with it. And I have lost touch with the seller, who moved, so the last hope is maybe on Classiczcars.com

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