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About M3333hp

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  1. This car has been doe sale for a couple of months....on CL in February for example. Looks like a good car, but the paint looks like robin's egg blue. If so, is probably hurting it. It's not an original color, and not an appealing color either.
  2. @87mj You could be right about the cowl drains being clogged. The question is how thin is the firewall metal around the perforation. If the surrounding metal is thin, especially below the perforation, and if you want to keep the stamped pattern of the firewall, then you would need to source part of another good firewall for the fix. If the stamped firewall pattern doesn't matter, then a piece of flat sheet metal will do. But if I were paying up for skilled work on the firewall I would want to source a solid piece of real Z car firewall so the finished area would look right. It depends on whether someone wants to just fill the hole or have it be right for when the car gets sold. If the car is ever offered on BaT, say, there will be viewers who will pick up on a flat firewall, and then probably start to wonder what other shortcuts were take. It depends on what you want the car to be when it's done. @grannyknot Yes we definitely need to see the underside. Anyone who has owned one of these cars, and especially anyone who has restored one, or paid someone to restore one that had damaged or rusted body metal would want to see the underside to know what they were getting into. But so far we have not seen the underside, and from the photos that have been posted so far I have not seen "tell tale signs of a lot of rust evenly distributed all over the car". That seems to me to be a pretty broad / negative statement. Like I said earlier, I don't see any signs of rust on the shelf at the rear of the hatch opening for example, which is often rusty in these 50 year old first-year Z cars. Similarly, from what you can see of the rocker panels, I don't see rust perforation there either. Maybe there is some, but so far I don't see it in the posted pictures. Maybe being a Texas car has saved it, but I have seen way more rusty or butchered cars being offered lately. In my experience I would much rather have an honest, unbutchered early Z car body to work on than so many of the cars that have come out of the woodwork lately.
  3. The new pics show perforation of the firewall adjacent to the top of the battery, which is unusual. Usually what happens is battery acid drips down onto the inner fenderwell right under the battery, and that perforates. But the last pic doesn't show any perforation, which is a big plus. That area can be fixed, but if you want it to look right you need to have someone with an English wheel form new metal to replace the perforated metal under the battery that needs to be cut out, and that takes skill and $$. With this car what needs to be done is to cut out the perforated and thinned firewall area and weld in a new firewall section. If you can get the area that's needed from a donor car that should not be too much trouble. The rest of the pics that Snaponfitz is going to add should show whether the frame rails are OK. If OK then the body shouldn't be too big a job, since some of the areas that often rust, like the narrow horizontal panel at the rear of the hatch opening, isn't rusted, and the rockers look OK from what the pics show. It needs a LF fender and the 2 headlight scoops, plus probably all of the rubber seals. By that time you might as well get it repainted in 918 orange, one of the best first year colors.
  4. The comments above are right on. $10K is too cheap for an early first year car like this. For a look at what these early Z cars are selling for have a look at Bringatrailer.com (BaT) There have been quite a few auctions of these cars in the past few years, especially during the past year. You can get a feel for what these early Z cars are selling for by looking at past auctions on that site. If you go through the comments on BaT of some of the auctions of early cars you can also get a feel for what potential buyers and Z car fans look for in an early Z car, and what you need to do to get your car sold for the right price---what it's worth in today's market. You need to upload a LOT of photos of just about every square inch of the car, including the underside----especially the underside. Get the car up on a lift at a shop, make sure there's enough light, and take a hundred photos of all areas of the underside including the frame rails and the floors. It won't matter how dirty the underside is. What will matter is how much rust there is. From what I can see of this car's frame rails looking down into the engine bay, they look OK. That's a big one---how rusty, or unrusty, the frame rails and the floors are. Don't try to hide anything. The people who haunt BaT know it when something important isn't being shown. You said the engine runs well and the transmission shifts. Try to get a video of the engine running and also the car going down the road----from both inside and outside the car. That gives people a lot of confidence about a car. Do a cold engine start video with the hood open, and also a full walkaround the car with the engine running. Then get a friend to drive the car while you film from the passenger's seat. It doesn't have to be a long or fast drive. You just want to show that the car and the drivetrain are roadworthy. And remember, originality always brings the best price. Don't take anything off the car even if it's old, dirty, cracked, or broken. People pay up for original---and rightly so. The best way to destroy the value of a car like this one is to take original stuff off of it or modify it. The only exception might be if you can source some early wheels to replace those later wheels that are on the car. The best kind to have would be original steel wheels with "D" hubcaps, but those are pretty much unobtanium these days unless you have very deep pockets. The next best would be 1970-72 vintage slotted aluminum "mags". I would offer to buy your car instantly for your asking, but you deserve to get about double that or more for it, depending on how much of that rust that you mentioned is present. Good luck with the sale!
  5. Hi Z, Thanks SO MUCH for finding your fuel rail. I'll take it. The small difference in one of the brackets doesn't matter. And I see you are in Calgary---excellent! I'm in BC, on The Island, postal code V9P 9J2. If you could figure the cost of shipping and a strong box, or maybe even double boxes, one inside the other if you can find them, of course I'll cover those costs too. You can text me at 250-734-3811 or email me at: cain@uwo.ca Thanks again! Pete
  6. Hello all. I need a fuel distribution rail for an early 240Z. It needs to be the early type that has a block at the end nearest to the firewall >>>See the illustration below for the type that I need. I can't use the type that has a 180 degree turn in the tubing at the firewall end. You can text a picture to me at 250-734-3811. Thanks! Pete
  7. Mike, I received the firewall material -- Thanks! It's just what I need to fix my firewall material. Look for an envelope in the mail soon ….. Pete
  8. https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/wto/d/bellevue-datsun-240z-280z-stock-oem/6792822848.html Three TOPY steel wheels dated 1971 Two TOPY steel wheels dated 1976 In Bellevue, WA These are rare, most were scrapped. I have no financial interest in these, just want to alert anyone who needs them for a restoration.
  9. https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/d/north-manchester-1973-datsun-240z/6789955618.html Yes it's a '73, but looks to be original and has been in the same family since '94. About 45K miles. Green, with one repaint. Yes it has the flat tops, but well worth a look.
  10. hiyabrad, I was able to get the thickness of the disks I have measured, and they are right at the wear limit , so if they were turned they would be even thinner than the wear limit. They are not going to work for you. Sorry about that.
  11. I have a pair of used brake rotors like the one in your photo. They will need to be turned, and I will need to mic them to see if they can be turned and then successfully used afterward. Do you know what year cars were those particular rotors with the square open slots used on?
  12. Hi zKars. Pete here. I'll buy your Caswell plating kit. And I'm in Canada, too....BC to be exact. If you could figure the shipping (cheapest way...does not need to be fast) and let me know how you want to be paid I'll get the payment done. My postal code for the shipping is V9P 9J2 If you want to take this off Classic Z car for my ship address I'm at this email: cain@uwo.ca
  13. CanTechZ, Thanks a lot for finding this bit of firewall material. I think I can use it and make it work for me even if it's slightly different. I just have a few pretty small spots to fill in. If you could get me a piece that's about 5 X 8 inches that would work, or 2 pieces that add up to 5 X 8, total. If you can find some that's fairly flat that would be best. If not that's OK, I can heat it up a little and put some weight on it to flatten. I don't need the soft padding (foam?) on the back, if you can get it off fairly easily. You could sandwich it between 2 pieces of cardboard and put it in an envelope and that would work. I'd like to send you some $$ for the postage....let me know. I'm on Vancouver Island. Can you contact me at: cain@uwo.ca for my address? If you are ever on the Island you would be welcome to visit my garage. LOTS of things that are different about the very early cars. Cheers, Pete
  14. Namerow, I forgot to answer your question---I'm in BC. Pete
  15. Hi Namerow Did you find any of the black early 240Z firewall material that I posted about on ClassicZCars 'wanted' page? If yes please let me know. Thanks! Pete
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