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About M3333hp

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  1. https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/wto/d/bellevue-datsun-240z-280z-stock-oem/6792822848.html Three TOPY steel wheels dated 1971 Two TOPY steel wheels dated 1976 In Bellevue, WA These are rare, most were scrapped. I have no financial interest in these, just want to alert anyone who needs them for a restoration.
  2. https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/d/north-manchester-1973-datsun-240z/6789955618.html Yes it's a '73, but looks to be original and has been in the same family since '94. About 45K miles. Green, with one repaint. Yes it has the flat tops, but well worth a look.
  3. @Zed Head You’re right, I did mix up who said exactly what. It was member 240dkw who said “I really do not think he [that is, me] is trying to mess with any VIN”, not you. But that’s not all there is to say about that. Notice that member 240dkw responded to what you said by saying that he didn’t think I was “trying to mess with any VIN”. That shows that he interpreted your comments as suggesting that the VIN of my car might have been messed with, possibly by me. Likewise, I also thought that your comments suggested that the VIN of my car might have been messed with. Like commenter 240dkw, I also wondered why you talked about “reVINing” cars, and about a member from Oregon [which I was told was where my car came from] who “feels fine with moving VIN tags over to different bodies”. You were asking questions that both member 240DKw and I interpreted as implying that someone, possibly me, had “messed with the VIN”. And why did you also say: “Not sure why you're not giving more info. Is it one of those sketchy ‘lost title’ cars? The Oregon guy drove it in to Canada and left it maybe? No offense intended but the story has holes”, and that I “did not appear to have proper paperwork” and “Apparently he doesn’t have any transaction paperwork” and “he might not even have proof that the car is his”. Saying that a “story has holes” and those other comments above clearly implies that the storyteller---me---is possibly, or probably, being dishonest. You have no information that would lead to those potentially damaging conjectures. To bring up “reVINing” cars and someone from Oregon who “feels fine with moving VIN tags over to different bodies” in a discussion about my Oregon car is remarkable in the worst possible way, and potentially damaging to me. And saying that “...maybe there are problems with the title or will be in the future” and that “It kind of looks like [I’m] seeking information to help [me] get a proper title” adds nothing other than negative, totally unfounded, doubts about me and the car. You could have asked whether I have a proper title for the car, showing the VIN that I included in my description of the car, or about anything else about the car, but instead you seem to have assumed the worst. As for your comment that “The car has all of the ID tags removed”, it’s surprising that you would take that to mean there are doubts about the car’s authenticity as HLS30-00957. It’s normal for many owners to remove the door plate and the engine bay plate when there’s a compete repaint from the bare shell so there’s no overspray on the plates or need to mask them, which usually looks bad. If you had asked about those tags, or about the VIN etched (not stamped) on the firewall instead of assuming the worst, I could have explained that to you. Your comments that I “did not appear to have proper paperwork” and that I “didn’t mention that had a proper title” are amazing, since there was no reason for you to think those things. All you had to do was ask.....not assume the worst. Those kinds of comments could create doubts about the accuracy of my description of the car as HLS30-00957, whether you intended to create those doubts or not. And that could be very damaging to me and possibly also to whoever owns the car after me when I eventually sell it. I am very surprised that you would be so reckless in your comments on this site, especially since this is the best known website for vintage Z cars. There are reasons why I did not list every piece of information that you think was important or necessary for my request at the top of this thread. Things like the fact that I do not want to name the seller here without knowing that he is OK with that, that the seller was Canadian, not from Oregon, and I that have not been able to contact him because he has moved. Contrary to your implication, I do know the seller’s name and former address, but have not been able to contact him. Unfortunately I don’t have the names or records from any previous owners before him. That's why I posted on this site asking for information. You could have just accepted my approach to asking for help as I did, or you could have requested more information from me, but instead you made a number of very negative assumptions about the situation and about my intentions, and then you broadcast them here, on the best known website about vintage Z cars. I don’t know why you would do that, but I resent your unfounded implications and your approach to “discussion”, which seems to be to assume the worst about someone’s intentions. I think it would be best for everyone, especially for this wonderful site, if you and I had no further communication. @wal280z Thank you for your comments and the tip about the @. I appreciate it. @Carl Beck @240DKW @240260280 @Mark Maras @26th-Z
  4. @Carl Beck @240DKW Thanks very much for your responses. Carl, yes this is Peter in Nanoose Bay, BC. I think I contacted you previously asking you the question about my car's history---whether it was initially sold in the US. But advancing age, I guess, caused me to forget our previous contact and to alert you to my question yet again. Anyway, thanks for the information in your comments. That's helpful, and I'll try to follow that route up. 240DKW, I agree that I can look to the original engine that's in the car to prove that my car, 0957, has a US build and not a Canadian build. Thanks for pointing that out. The fact that the seller told me that it was an Oregon car is consistent with the US build features on the engine. As to whether that's enough to prove to US authorities, should someone want to do that, that the car originally came from the US is not unclear, but might be worth trying. The question is whether that would be convincing to authorities if someone were to try (re)importing the car into the US.
  5. Zed Head, Thanks for your comments, but there is no problem with the title for this car, nor is there any other kind of issue like that. I have a clean British Columbia title for the car, and my name is on it as the owner. The two stamped VIN tags and the VIN etched on the firewall all match. This car is HLS30-00957, and the clean British Columbia title carries that same VIN. I’m not sure what holes you think the car or my story has, but the simple fact is that I just want to know where the car was first sold: the US or Canada? Like a lot of other owners, I want to know the history of my car, which came to me with no useful history, unfortunately. For example, if my car is ever sold to someone in the US I imagine that person would want to know where the car came from, especially since if it was originally sold in the US they would be free of having to pay duty to re-import the car back into the US --- if a US origin could be documented on official paperwork. Also, there is a restoration issue with the intake/emissions configuration, where Canadian cars had the ‘clean’ Euro balance tube on the intake manifold, but US cars had a different balance tube and lots of emissions equipment mounted there. I want the restoration to be accurate, and I think most Z car fans would want that too. I’m not sure why you think I might be messing with the VIN. I have owned two 240Zs in my life, the first being HLS30-03778 which I owned from 1974 to 2003, and which the buyer sold on BaT not long ago. I purchased my 2nd 240Z---the car being discussed here---about 6 years ago in British Columbia and I am pumping a LOT of $$ and sweat equity into a ground-up restoration. I want to do it right, and to do that I need to know where the car came from, plain and simple. I have been around cars all my life, I own 4 performance cars right now, I am serious about them, and I want this 240Z resto to be right. Mark Maras, Thanks for your post. That’s exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. I’ll find that thread and read it. It might give me a good lead to follow. Thanks for the comments everyone.
  6. I get your point, 240260280. Your CDN car has the Euro balance tube without all the emissions stuff on it that the US cars got. My previous car, HLS30-03778, had the Euro balance tube also, and I bought that one from the original owner, in Vancouver, BC, and it was a CDN car from day 1. My current car, HLS30-00957, came with the original engine, per the engine bay data plate and engine number on the block, but it had the US balance tube, which, along with the claim by the seller that it was an Oregon car, tells me that it was sold new in the US. But that's not enough to prove that it's a US car if someone ever wanted to import it back to the US free and clear. BTW, I'm guessing you are somewhere in the East from the snow in your pics. I'm on Vancouver Island and the last time I had to shovel snow out of my driveway was in Feb 2012. We don't get much snow here. Cheers.
  7. Thanks Zed head. I'm not sure where that chassis model identification table came from, but I have a database of hundreds of cars/VINs/photos of No. American 240Zs and none of them have a 'U' on any of the dataplates, or the firewall. Anyway, the car was in Canada when I bought it, so no info from the US came with it. And I have lost touch with the seller, who moved, so the last hope is maybe on Classiczcars.com
  8. Can anyone help me find out the country of first sale of HLS30-00957 ? I bought this car some years ago in British Columbia, Canada, and am in the middle of a restoration from the shell - up, with a full repaint in the original 918 orange. I was told by the seller that it was originally an Oregon car, but there is no documentation of that. I have tried to go through the Oregon DMV but they require the name of the person that it was registered to way back when, and I do not have that info. They cannot search on the VIN, since there was no computerized database of car registrations back in the 1970s. I have written to Nissan in Japan and received back a nice letter from their Customer Communication Center saying that they do not have records of where any of their cars were originally sold back then.....but thanks for buying Nissan products. I have also called the Nissan Consumer Affairs people in Franklin, TN (a bunch of times!) but I can only get a receptionist or people who have no idea how to find the answer to my question where the car was originally sold. I know there was a Nissan center in California not too long ago that might have the info, but that seems to have been moved to TN. The worst outcome would be that the records went into the dumpster in the move. Now I'm asking you guys, and next it will be Carl Beck himself if he doesn't see this. Calling Carl Beck...anyone ---help! Thanks for any info or info sources you might have. I want to have as much solid info on the car as I can get. This is my 2nd Z, after selling HLS30-03778 some years ago after I owned it for 27 years, and which the buyer sold on BaT not too long ago. Peter Vancouver Island, British Columbia
  9. I think that engine has had some work. It's much too clean and it started too quickly to have been brought into the shop and just hooked up to gas and a battery and be fired right up. The carbs seem too clean to not have been worked on. There are reasons why someone might want an early car. Probably some people on here can understand, since it is CLASICZCARS.com after all, and you can't get much more classic than a Z car with VIN 000105 that was built in 1969. 1) Anyway, one reason is that the earliest 1970 cars were different in about 30 different ways from the later 1970 cars. And now a lot of those very early parts are being accurately reproduced, so it's not impossible to get an early car back to what it was. 2) The earliest cars bring the most money when restored well, meaning they can be saved instead of ignored or crushed because restoring one would be a losing proposition. 3) Having owned some, and restoring one now, I like the early versions of many different cars. They were often the most basic, and not affected by "marketing" or "comfort' features that sometimeds watered them down. But, hey, anyone with an early Z car that's not in bad shape and not too expensive, just let me know and I'll take it off your hands.
  10. HLS30-000105 is now for sale on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-240z-Series-1-/292151078816?hash=item44058fafa0:g:dCsAAOSwFqNZQM9-&vxp=mtr Has 49 bids to $15,000 within 4 hours after being listed. It was listed on CL and within a short time after I posted on here the listing was taken down. I should ask the guy for a finder's fee.
  11. HLS30-000105 is now for sale on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-240z-Series-1-/292151078816?hash=item44058fafa0:g:dCsAAOSwFqNZQM9-&vxp=mtr Has 49 bids to $15,000 in 4 hours after being listed. I should ask the guy for a finder's fee.
  12. I almost couldn't believe this: a CL listing for two 240Zs, one of which is a **1969** production with VIN HLS30-00105, in Lexington, KY.. https://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/6113347701.html It just went up day or so ago, so if you want them---there are 2 cars for sale for 1 price, $3000---here is your chance for a VERY early car.. The cars are said to be "rebuildable", but there isn't much information, just 4 photos for the 2 cars. One pic is of both cars in a grassy area outside a barn, and only a closeup pic of the door jamb data plate with the production date 10/69 and the VIN as above. I would buy these cars but I am nowhere near them and am already in the middle of restoring an early car. I hope somebody buys these, even if they look like they are in poor shape, so they don't go to the crusher. If someone does I hope they will post here. Cheers, Pete British Columbia, Canada ' ' 1970 1971 240 VIN 0105.pdf
  13. Thanks for the welcome. I'm on Vancouver Island. I just posted a few pics of my car on the way home. It's in my album, but I'm not sure how someone navigates to it from here. Anyway, the pics are there, hope someone can find them.
  14. I sold because I wanted to move on to another sports car, and at that time I lived in the rust belt, so had to garage it in the winter, and I had only one tiny garage space. Now all that has changed, and am free to play more. Thanks for the tips.
  15. Hello all. After selling my May, 1970-build 240Z that I owned for 27 years some years ago, and of course regretting it, I have bought a January 1970-build car. Unfortunately it's not as nice as my previous one, but it's unrusty, mostly complete, and well worth saving. The biggest problem is that it has received the chrome-delete treatment and has some other non-original changes, mostly minor. My goal is to take it back to all-original. I have bought a bunch of parts that I need, but I still need more. I'm not sure how to go about this, so I'll just ask some questions and people can set me right if I do the wrong thing here. The car was lowered with replacement springs and I want to bring it back up to the original ride height, so I need a set of stock springs. From what I know, the 1970-73 springs are all the same, correct? I have read some threads here about using Chevette springs, and also that someone has had the early springs remanufactured but I can't find who sells them. Anyone know? I plan to use OEM springs, so any pointers or anyone with some that are available would be welcome to let me know. I need some rare items like an early hatch with the ventilation openings below the glass and the vertical demister wires, also a battery hold down bracket set, and some other small stuff. Finally, some time ago I found a web page that listed the earliest cars serial numbers, but now I can't find it again. Does anyone have a link for that page? I think it was maintained by Carl Beck, IIRC. Thanks, Pete
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