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There were no traces of green paint on any of my lines when I stripped my car some years ago, but there was lots of evidence of yellow plating as it was flaking off. We are very fortunate to have an excellent plating company in my area and they have the large tanks to accommodate long lines without bending. Several buddies currently doing restos have had their lines replated with outstanding results and they handle all the smaller items for my hobby business. I was on a strict budget for my restomod years ago, no allowance for getting the lines plated. I thoroughly stripped them and painted in metallic silver topped with clear. - it worked out pretty well. Everything is still fresh and bright 10 years later.

Mr,?

I thought that looked familiar, I recognized my outdoor work bench.

I don't see the need to remove the head. Either way you'll have to come up with a valve spring compressor. IF, the compression is satisfactory in all cylinders, leave the head on. Removing it may open a Pandora's Box of broken bolts and studs. The rope in the cylinder and the lever action spring compressor is the easiest method of changing the seals. Watch several different videos until you can't find anything else to learn and then go for it. That's what I do.

The red/orange 73 is an odd one. I thought that getting in to the 20's for a 73 with a few mods, that the owner didn't know a whole bunch about, would be good money. But apparently he had the reserve set to over 30. Maybe hasn't been looking at the 73 prices. https://bringatrailer.com/search/1973+240z/

Before replacement I had a whine that sorta sounded kinda like a diff whine coming from that location but did not change as power was applied just seemed to follow speed. (I could hear it and when turned my ear towards the right rear it was louder). this is what got me to looking at it in the 1st place, that and the age, just thinking about 45 year old grease had me worried. The whine was not very loud, but it was noticeable. Todays test ride had no whine anymore, so maybe I hit the cause with the bearing replacement.

Texas has about six climate zones. I was fortunate that my '83 ZXT was bought in southern OK and soon moved to Central TX, both of which are far enough north to avoid the Gulf Coast and far enough south to avoid much winter weather. i suspect it was not driven in winter before I got it in 1990. We moved to Colorado in 1998 where the car has been a three-season vehicle. As a result, the undercarriage and body have essentially no rust. Sheer luck on my part, but I'll take it.

I agree with @grannyknot and @jfa.series1 that the brake tubes originally were yellow cad or zinc plated. Here is a picture of one of the original tubes that I have recently removed from my 7/70 car. They were covered with under coating and as I scrape it off there is lots of evidence of yellow colored plating.

Ha! That state is so bloody big it has it's own climate regions? Ashamed to say I have a Hollywood movie image of dusty cattle ranches when I think of TX. Thanks for the insight.

I have a 280zxt that I painted grabber blue several years ago, and I used flat black to accent the color. I thought it helped the color pop. You could try painting the cowl panel off the car, then just placing it over the primer that it is now or a black, and if you don’t like it then you know to leave the cowl off when having the rest of the car painted. Oh and granny, I don’t know if all Texas classic cars are assumed to come from the western part (where it’s dry), but I can promise you the cars still love to rust over here...especially in Houston where he is. It’s funny how many times I’ve heard “Texas car” used as a selling point, but having spent pretty much all my life here so far, never understood how that came about.

I've replaced the seal twice. Replaced the yoke because it was scored a bit.

Hi z3beemer. Here is a picture of my ‘71 z. If this is the seam in question, hope it helps. let me know if you need more pictures.

Still sesrching those 3 black screws. I used some stainless steel screws and washers and now i would really like to get the correct screws. Anyone has a clue of the precise size, type snd where to get them?