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Damn it! I will figure out a way to get that. Oh Zed Head....I'll get you one of these days. You rascal!

Whenever you do a project like we all do, you have a ton of people you owe thanks to. Especially a forum like this where you ask a question and get an answer you can use and count on. Not just an opinion. In my case, I have watched every one of the YouTube videos that were produced by Francisco Guiterrez three times! @Panchosgarage on YouTube. I found out about this tool from his videos. It is how you set the MC plunger depth so you don't have a long pedal. Gracias Francisco. I'd bet you're here on ClassicZ but I don't know which of us fools you are!

Hi Charles, Most important before you strip it down is to check end play on all the gears. You can not check it properly once you dismantle it. The clearance varies per gear, so check the manual for the tolerances. If it exceeds the maximum tolerances, you can fix it by replacing the gears or a machine shop. The clearance on the baulk rings can be checked after dismantling. They should have a clearance of 1.25 to 1.60mm. If they are getting close to 1.25mm I would consider replacing them. It's one of the clearances that effects the way changing gears feels. If you do need to replace the baulk rings, I would strongly suggest using the genuine Nissan parts. Yes, I'm sure there are aftermarket units out there that will perform as well, but there are a lot that don't and I can't tell the difference through a simple photo on a website. The next important thing to giving your transmission that new snappy gear change feeling. Replace the shifting insert springs on both hubs. There are 3 in each synchroniser hub. P/N: 32602-32200 The other springs that should be replaced are the checking springs in the selectors and the return spring behind the return spring plunger. The reverse gear does look pretty shabby, but if you can't find another to replace it you can "repair" it. The most important thing is that the teeth are clean and not chipped. You can have the reverse gear machined back until the teeth are cleanand bevel the ends. Not cheap, but if you have nothing else it will work fine. The only thing you will notice is your gear stick will travel just a little further before reverse engages. If you need help on this, I can explain further. First choice is try and locate a replacement.

That was quick. Both sold in less than 20 hours... Pending the funds of course but

If it started with starting fluid and died, you probably have more than one problem. You have a problem with the ballast resistor or the ignition switch. You have spark when the key is in start. Otherwise the car wouldn't start on the starting fluid. When you release the key, a bad switch causes you to lose spark, or a fault in the circuit is causing you to lose voltage at the coil (sometimes the ballast resistor). Also it could be that you are using up the starting fluid you sprayed in (See #2). It doesn't sound like the injectors are firing, so you don't have fuel. That could also (in part) be from a bad ignition switch. As suggested, download the FSM and the wiring diagram. Get started with a voltmeter. If you don't know how to use a voltmeter or read a wiring diagram, then find a friend who knows how to do so.

I sent @Dave WM a reverse gear (can't remember which one) many years ago and he ended up not using it. Maybe he still has it and it will work for you.

Just for clarity, I updated the parts list in the resources sections. I came across an alternative for the shifting insert springs. If you can not find the little springs, some aftermarket companies supply an alternative circlip (set of 2) with p/n: . I think they come from a Chevy transmission, but can't confirm that. Not sure how they perform compared to the originals, but it is an alternative.

I know, the guy that sold me this one kept going on about how much they were worth and I thought it was a sale pitch. Now I see a really nice restored 72-73 goes for north of $20,000. It is quite interesting how much this product line follows the S30 line. First ones were made in 72 , but mostly registered as 73 so they are worth the most. Changes in the late 73-74 model improved it, more changes in 75 made it the last year of the Z1 as well as the most made so less value. Many changes in 76 and rebrand as a KZ. Went from 900 to 1000 cc

The two strokes' glory days didn't last long but Yamaha had a good run. https://bringatrailer.com/2011/08/25/giant-killer-1975-yamaha-rd350/

What did you do to the engine and car, gas tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, injector system, etc., before you tried to start it? I had an engine once that only sat for a year and it wouldn't start until we put oil in the cylinders. The rings get dry and there's poor compression. Plus your injectors might be full of bad fuel, even water. 12 years is a long time.

Mabel, Mabel, get off the table. The quarter is for the beer!

Black Label is a classic, without a doubt. Up there with Red Cap and Old Vienna! Many of these were consumed in Z-Cars back in the "good ole days".

the car was sitting for 12 years and the second time i sprayed starting fluid in nothing happened.

Always look for the simplest thing that can cause the problem. Problems like this are very seldom due to complex factors. Ballast resistor? Good idea. Dirty contacts? You bet. And so on.

welcome to the world of old cars. You will become a old school mechanic, prob a better one than a modern era mechanic that works on modern era cars, if you keep the car. There is no OBD, so you have to learn the old school way, using your eyes, ears, nose, brain, and the FSM. A few simple tools like a VOM (DMM today), a test light, will go a long way. The upside is these cars are VERY simple when compared to modern OBD cars, the down side is just about every system can be suspect since you are dealing with not only 40+ year old wiring and parts, but also prior owner hacks. Still the basics apply, compression, fuel, air, spark, timing. Get those right and it will run, has too. You should start compression, a base line reading just so you can scratch that off the list. Next spark order, again easy stuff, prob not the issue, but check off the list. fuel, get a pressure gauge and read the FSM air, new air filter, smoke out the system to find vacuum leaks, make sure the throttle is opening, easy stuff Spark, start with some new NGK plugs, verify they actual spark by pulling one, lay it on the valve cover and crank the engine. Injectors working, you can listen for them clicking with a stethoscope or even just a long screw driver on the injector and listen to the other end. They could be clogged so look at the new spark plugs see if they are getting wet with fuel. common issues NOT addressed in the FSM, faulty intermittent start switch, bad grounds, corroded wires. So look into those as well. there are YouTube videos on how to check start switch.

Sounds like you don't have any spark. 😉 Seriously, check the ballast resistor with a ohmmeter. They burn out eventually, and then the condition you describe happens. The car rides up, then after starting, it dies. The ballast resistor is bypassed for starting, then after the cranking is done power is directed through the resistor to reduce the voltage going to the coil.

Get yourself a service manual (download) as there can be a million issues with the electric system and walk through the complete system.. Get al the contacts clean and at one point you'll see a very bad contact, that was the culprit. just go through the whole system.. it needs a clean anyway after all these years.

I once went to my german dealer and asked why my chain had 3 bushings missing.. he sayd: you probably start " to slow " when the light go green at the trafficlight! 😉 The time i hit a tree was after a wheely gone wrong.. it turned it's head straight for the big oak. Just as the front wheel hit the ground i hit the tree so no time was left to brake. I still have the oilfilter.. completely smashed.. it sits right behind the front wheel in the middle of the engineblock.. also the front wheel looked like a heart! 🙄

Obviously, somebody is hiding something. See how they slipped the symbol off and hoped no one would notice? We all should have seen that from the beginning. Also just noticed the Beverly Hills Car Club will put their stickers and plate frames on anything.

Picked up where I left off on the engine today. I assembled the valve train. Lash pads used were .180" on the intakes and stock (~ .120") on the exhausts. The rockers were reconditioned by Rocker Arms Unlimited in Redding CA. I have had some done by Delta, but I think this place does a better job. With the rocker arms adjusted to the correct clearances to the cam, I was able to inspect a few of the valve seats and bowl area: Also, light from the combustion chamber side illuminated the ports, so I took a couple more pictures of the port work. One exhaust and one intake port are shown in that order: For installation of the head, I referred back to the discussion earlier regarding head gasket thickness. Stock Nissan thickness measurements provided earlier in the thread indicate about 1.20 mm. That is about .047". This is the head gasket that I purchased: I measured it again today, across each firing ring between bores, as well as in a couple of areas around the outer edge of the gasket. My measurements were typically between .057" and .058". 1.5 mm is .059". So, if this gasket compresses to .047", then that is about .012". That seems reasonable, but I don't know how much it compresses. My piston, as mentioned a while back, pops up .025" above deck. So, at the highend, I've got .058" - .025" or .033" (with no gasket compression). And, at the low end, I've got .047" - .025" or .022" (if the gasket compresses ~ .011" to .012" inches upon installation). This is not a race engine, so I think this will suffice. 🙂 A few pics of the engine as assembly continues:

Yeah that’s what I figured! Cheers! Yeah poly bushes for sure upon rebuild. Ryan

Let me be the first lower states man to claim I've taken Heinz ketchup and Tabasco with some Dale's sauce and a bunch of vodka with horseradish and made some of the best bloody mother's ever. Necessity is the mother of inventions, thus the name.

Please allow me to be the first Canadian to jump in here and claim the Caesar: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caesar_(cocktail)#:~:text=The Caesar was invented in,Calgary Inn's new Italian restaurant. I believe there are a few western Canadian members here who will probably tell me to keep my eastern paws off their drink! For years one of the worst things about flying on US airlines was not being able to get Caesars. Bloody Mary's are boring. Of course Canadians have long tried to brag about our beer (as compared to US beer), but that was mainly because they didn't look any farther than Bud or Coors. The US led the way with craft brewing and still has more craft breweries per capita than Canada even with ten times the population. As a beer fan, I'm grateful. Molson and Labatt are fine, but nothing to brag about these days. Of course Europeans (especially those crafty Belgians) have had it over us north americans for a long time! Should I duck?

Took the booster off, thankfully it was much easier then what I’m used to with bmw 2002 boosters. Got the disc out, super glued it back on, put it back together and the brake pedal no longer goes to the floor! I’ll have to do some road testing and see if the push rod needs to be adjusted, but now I can comfortably start shaking the car down! Thanks for the help everyone, and I’ll keep faulty hydraulic parts in mind also.

There is a bad database out there that somebody created for the Z car transmission parts. Apparently everyone uses it because the same errors are shown by everybody. It's kind of illuminating about how the car parts market works. There is another about CV axles for the 240Z.

I know. You are absolutely right. They are supposed to adjust, but they usually just don't. In order to get rear drums that really do adjust, you need to get away from that goofy floating cylinder design and swap over to the 77-78 style or do a rear disk mod.

Rebuilding a smashed bike gives us something to do while we are recuperating, right? It's always my legs that get busted and end up in a cast. I have also hit a tree Dutchguy. Seems hard to do and people laughed when I told them, "how can you hit a tree?" Well they won't get out of the way when you run off the road into the forest. Damn pine straw on the edge of the road in curves is like ice. You all better quit this harassment or I'll have to go out and buy another.

I rode my neighbor's CBR900RR, it was stupid fast! Would have been really easy to over ride your abilities on that bike

Uhhhh... So are the rear drums. Haha!!

I agree, I would try to straighten out the damage on the control arm. Haven't seen the shims before Most rear brake upgrades dont increase brake efficiency. Some can throw off the F/R bias and increase stopping distance. All that said I am going with rear disc because they are self adjusting.

If you can't get to a bone yard or pick a part...I found an awesome fix for slow early z wipper motors. First I cleaned inside the motor. Commentator and brushes. New grease where needed. And then bi-passed the LR power lead to motor with direct 12v from battery with 30/40 relay and 30a fuse. Works amazing...even on dry window.

A survivor. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-12-14/white-house-official-recovers-from-severe-covid-19-friend-says?sref=fqqmZ8gi "A White House official who fell ill with Covid-19 in September is recovering after three months in the hospital, though he lost his right foot and lower leg in his battle against the virus, according to a friend."