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Well, There's good news and bad news. The good news, Kathy was exposed to Covid-19 by another volunteer last week. She was tested yesterday and received the negative results back today. She'll be quarantining one more week. The bad news, There must be some kind of memory scrubber in the infrared thermometers the stores are using to check customers temperatures. I went to the store yesterday to pick up milk, and bread. I came home with beer, donuts.

It has a similar shape to the distribution of votes in your recent election.

The stretch of highway from Denver to Fort Collins is busy, and crazy. I passed through there a few hundred times during my short stint as a flatbed truck driver. Saw plenty of weird things, like this guy who was so eager to get out on the lake he decided to launch his boat early. Guess This Isn't The Boat Launch by Racer, on Flickr

The HVAC panel is made by silkscreening on the back of thin transparent film and then that thin film was laminated to a thicker transparent plastic sheet for support and contour (it's a little rounded profile, right?). On the thin film (.020 ish) they silkscreen the black outline first, then the white to highlight the white lettering, then the red and blue to highlight the remainder. Four screen passes total. And they probably started with a matt finish transparent material to get the flat front. And then after all the silk screening was done, they glued the flimsy thin sheet to the thicker acrylic material. They use the same silk screening process for making membrane keyboard overlays. Here's a couple pics of a HVAC nameplate. Front side: Back side:

Thanks David, I sent you the Datsun Comp Distributor today.

you can buy brand new evap with a standard TVX, not cheap (300ish iirc) that is a drop in replacement. I would go with a parallel flow condenser (pick a genereric size that approximates the oe size and rig up some mount hardware) a SD709 and a generic drier, then use the new evap in an OE housing. Using the PF condenser should allow for good use of R134a vs R12. I got my new evap just in case my old one leaks or the tvx ever looses its charge. At that time I would just swap out the evap and stay with R12 since I have a good condenser (was a NOS unit). I prefer the old hitachi SWP types with the sump, they are heavy as a tank but cant argue with longevity (looks OE on mine and runs fine). But the SD709 is prob a better choice if you have the mounting bracket. It prob works better (quiet, light weight), but I always wonder about the quality of stuff like this. I think there maybe some other tweeks if you car did not come with AC as far as making it work, its all covered in the FSM on how to add. Often see the entire AC system for sale on eBay, a good way to get all the pieces then if the evap is bad just replace it with the new one I mentioned above.

Thanks! Will check with Bonzi first as his seems to be about perfect for the car.

And here is the inaugural drive into the cul-de-sac. Still a number of details to finish, but she's getting pretty close. 20201124_124417.mp4 20201124_124452.mp4

similar to my experience Ali. That's not hot enough to need an oil cooler!

Maybe bracing?

going to change my oil soon, 2500 miles on VR1. Plan to use rotella T4 15-40 unless someone yells "DONT DO IT DAVE" my thinking on this is the T4 may have a better detergent package to help clean up carbon deposits that may be in my 100k+ engine. I have been using the VR1 for about 25k miles again avg about 3k between changes.

I know exactly what you mean. I like the way the OE system controls work, I find them easier to deal with that modern stuff to get what you want. Another thing to remember you will need to get the under hood air switches and a idle up servo and the vacuum bottle, hopefully you can score a complete system. You should be prepared to pull the dash even if you go all OE, Its not that hard to do and will give much better access to the workings. If you go after market pulling the dash is a given, but even OE its a good idea. You can service the heater core and valving while its out. IF your dash is cracked you should look into a vintage dashes replacement. A good time to do that as well. The vintage dashes replacement is an excellent reproduction of the OE, not cheap but if you want it done right its the way to go.

I like the cinnamon rolls at Johnson's Corner, but the ones at the Silver Grill in Fort Collins are much better. But I have been known to pick up a roll at Johnson's while going home from Denver. Johnson's Corner did a major expansion about 10 years ago - a friend of our was the contractor for the entire project. It's not easy to expand a truck stop that's open 24x7x365.

NippI'ma do a photo dump for now starting from the rear. This car is in a cocoon and of course the battery was dead so I had to get down in there. I can answer questions when this K4 kicks in. The 3 hinges are riveted on the foward peice and phillips head screws on the rear section. Those tool bins are not accessible on my raised deck 280 like my 240. You can see them under the board but I had to unscrew the cargo straps to lift the board to photograph them. There's a long piece of chrome trim that holds the carpet down above those bins.

You can run an extra ground wire also. I had a couple on my car. You don't know what's happening along the length of the wire whose end you are cleaning. Run a new wire, confirm good ground, see if the problem is fixed.

I don’t know, that’s why I NEEEED an oil temp sensor! ;)