Leaderboard

After seeing some additional pictures, I will repeat my advice from above - - "Other than a good detailing, I wouldn’t put any more money into it, as it won’t seriously effect its sale price in the market. Actually most serious buyers would rather fix whatever they want, the way they want. They would rather see it “as is” than worry about “cover-ups”, or “cheap fixes”. (not saying you would do any of that - just pointing out the skepticism in any used car market)." Looking at the additional pictures - - I'll add, messing with such an original condition 240Z - can actually reduce its value to the most serious collectors. They will not only have to address its minor flaws, they will first have to pay their professional restorers to undo what ever you have done. They will pay more for a car that hasn't been messed with.. If you want to help your Dad get the highest dollar value, I would say spend your time and money getting clear high resolution pictures of every detail. Get that Z up on a lift and get pictures of the undercarriage, lots of pictures of the most common rust areas. Take the battery out and get clear pictures of the area under the battery. Pay a professional photographer to provide good high resolution well lite images if you have to, pay someone to put the car up on a lift so you can get great pictures. IMHO that would be the best time and money you could spend on the Z. Go look at the Series I 240Z that sell on BAT - read the comments - you will see that the cars that sell for the most have a couple things in common - 1) 150 to 200 great pictures and 2) a seller that stays on top of answering questions and responding to requests. To get the most value out of a 50 year old Classic Car - you have to put the most effort into SELLING IT. Good luck, Carl B.

Wishing my 1976 - 11/75 a happy 45th birthday, don't know what actual day it was born. I ordered it in December of 75 and picked it up in early March of 1976. Putting it away for the winter, it didn't get much drive time this year, all the car shows were canceled. Hopefully they will be back next year.

If you start at plain http zhome (http://zhome.com) the items in the left nav load correctly in the right frame. If you start at https zhome (https://zhome.com) many of the items in the left nav don't load into the right frame. This is because modern browsers don't allow a mixture of https and http resources in a page. the easy and correct fix is to replace all the absolute http links with relative links, then the linked frame will load with the same protocol as the parent page.

Ah this worked. When Zedhead first brought this up I just goggled Zhome and did end up with the https site. I just now manually removed the s and the page works fine. I went to edit this in my bookmark and found it was http and not https. So if i had tried this from my bookmark it would have not given my this issue of dead links. That must be why it worked a few weeks ago as I normally get to the page through my bookmarks. Good call.

the 'community' thinks of http as outdated and generally https is preferred these days. that's why google returns an https link to zhome. your browser may also default to https if you don't enter the protocol - my chrome browser still defaults to http if I enter just 'zhome.com'. I didn't spot your problem with the 'how to join link'. That is down to the apache config on the server - the page http://zhome.com/~aktar/memberdb/entry returns a 403 status code, which is basically saying you don't have permission to visit that page. That could also be a result of modern browsers declining to participate in insecure stuff, or it could be deliberate - maybe you can't join the izcc any more. (I haven't read the whole thread!)

I took the 260Z out to a small car meet called Worship. The people in attendance were hard-core car people, and my car garnered many complements and plenty of interest in the throttle body fuel injection. There was also a modified 70 240Z there, owned by a friend who used to frequent this site. It always feels so great to take the car out for a drive. Here's a link to the rest of the photos from today: https://photos.app.goo.gl/k76JqGTjErk1JcFTA

I have a new one that I mounted to the head but never connected gas lines to. But $25 wouldn't get me to leave the house. Worth more like $50?

Yes this is all doable and if you were going to keep the car for yourself to enjoy it for years to come then you would see people saying "Go for it". But as you are prepping the car to sell it then it really it is best not to mess with the originality. Carl's advice above is rock solid.

I'm not at all!! If i needed a 240z i like this one.. As i have several drivelines from engine to diff and stuff.. no problem to bid 10 grand for a almost rustfree car! Yesterday i sold a original NISSAN frontwindow rubber in it's orig. plastic bag for 450 euro.. It layed 20 years in my cellar and was like new.. still.. This is stuff people really WANT!

LOL. All the rest of that material keeps squirrels out of your bell housing. Haha!! Racer X, I bet everyone at every level of racing bends some rules and stresses others beyond the limits of bending. Your secret is safe with us. All 30,000 of us. Haha!

Understandable but my first concern would be you disassembling the car and getting stalled out. I'm 10 years in on my project... The classic Datsun market is good right now, in 10 years you might not be able to give the car away! The car is worth more now the way it sits than freshly painted and disassembled. I think Carls advise is very solid

Just no!!!!

Lemmings.

And now everybody is looking if his/her L24 spare engine serialnumber is : 023269 😁

I have seen them but never used them myself. Many of the cheap colored, anodized lugnuts are aluminum alloy. My problem with them would be the 2 dissimilar metals (steel & aluminum) causing corrosion and grafting the lugs to the nuts. I'll stick with steel.

These are the basic 280zx alloy rims. 14x6. Very light. In fact we just put a set of Falken Azenis R615kt. 195/60 -14’s on a set of these. Sticky (200 tread wear) but fairly soft side wall. Haven’t put many miles on them, but a pretty decent 14 tire performance and ride quality. Good wet weather as well. $105USD or so on Tirerack, $150 CAD here in Alberta.