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I bought this car for Mrs. Racer 1.0 back in 1992 for $2,000. When we divorced she said she didn't want it, and demanded I pay her for it. I pointed out the car was bought with money out of my pocket, and the title was in my name, and I would not be giving her anything for the car, and that was that. I drove the car off and on until 1998, parking it because the oil consumption was excessive, and at the time I was trying to defend a championship in my race Z. So the car sat in the back corner of the shop, collecting dust. Fast forward to this past August. I'm at work, and my manager calls me, says I have to go home. Contact tracing had resulting in me being identified as being at risk to Covid19. Not wanting to waste a two week paid "vacation", I decided to clean up the shop a bit and see how the old Z was doing. I charged the battery overnight, and the car reluctantly came to life, 22 year old gas and all. Being all original, and numbers matching, I won't be making any changes that cannot be returned to the as new configuration. But in the interim I plan to replace the tired engine with one of the many others I have lying about, and rebuild the original as time and money allow. The car as I bought it in 1992 (alongside my race car): Double Datsuns by Racer, on Flickr Brown Z Red Z by Racer, on Flickr And after sitting in the corner of the shop after 22 years, dust, dirt, overspray (I painted a tractor and even though I had a makeshift spray booth, overspray went everywhere) and spider poop. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr Not easy to see through 22 years of dirt. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr I washed it. Notice the red haze of overspray. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr After the first pass around with rubbing compound and a buffer. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr And after about 20 passes around the car. I put some Panasport wheels on it that were on a 280Z parts car I had out back. 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr 1972 Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr And finally a coat of Zymol wax. Sunlight On The Z by Racer, on Flickr Sunlight On The Z by Racer, on Flickr Datsun 240Z by Racer, on Flickr Now for some mechanical work. I am going to change the car over to a manual tranny. These cars should never have had automatics. I also have new carpet, weatherstripping, and interior plastic panels to change out. Stay tuned. Racer

Well, I took yall's advice and started it up this afternoon. Oil pressure jumped to the middle of the gauge (70PSI?) almost immediately. I started another thread here if anyone's interested in following along with the fun. FYI before I started the engine I also tried connecting a mechanical pressure gauge in place of the sender. After cranking for a few seconds, I didn't even get a blip on the gauge. I then just pulled out the gauge and put my thumb over the hole and saw a little squirt out where I didn't press hard enough. That was good enough for me, and starting it up was definitely the right decision. @Captain Obvious I'd still love a rundown of how the gauges work if you're up for it.

Recently discussed. 100% new. Not cheap, not stock looking. Likely to last forever and not fail at the whim of the rebuilt junk suppliers. “Oh we are so sorry the fifth one in a row failed on your, here’s another! Be happy!” Do I have to bring up the Podunk Kansas story again? https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1114/category/218 They have alternators as well. Get a stock looking 120 Amp one wire and never look back again.

After almost 2 years of slowly rebuilding the engine, I finally got my '70 240Z to start up today! This is the first time I've ever seen the car run, so I'd love some feedback from you all with more experience on how it sounds. The car starts up pretty easily, even with the choke completely disengaged. The RPM seems to drift all over the place though, so I had to keep messing with the fast idle screw to keep it around 2,000 (just above Tom Monroe's recommended 1,500 minimum). It sounds kind of rough to my ears, but again I've never heard the car run properly so I really have no idea. This was originally my (soon-to-be) father in law's car and he thought it sounded a little rough but not terrible. I messed with the timing a little bit and settled on ~15 degrees of advance, but the RPM is wandering around so much that it's hard to know if any adjustments are helping or hurting. I only got around 10 minutes of runtime today because I was running out of a gas can rather than the tank, and I emptied 2 gallons of gas in 10 minutes. I'm pretty sure all of that gas is just going back in the tank through the return line though, as there's no noticeable smoke from the exhaust. Questions: How's it sound? Any concerns from you all? Any concerns about the RPM wandering around, or is this normal for a newly rebuilt engine? I was running water from my garden hose through the open radiator. After my runs today, I just let it drain out and put on the cap and drain plug. Any issues with leaving the remnants of hose water in there? I'm planning on continuing my break-in next weekend, so I'd rather not fill it up with coolant just yet. I also don't want the thing to rust solid over the week. What are your favorite guides for setting timing? Should I try to set timing before or after synchronizing my carbs and getting the mixture set? Thanks everyone - you've all been a huge help so far! Videos: - Very first start! After a few unsuccesful cranks, I handed the keys to my father-in-law-to-be who started it up almost immediately. He claims the car remembers him. - Here's me starting it. I reved it to ~3,500RPM before I got ahold of myself and dropped it back down to 2,000 - Here's a quick walkaround of the car. I'm watching the RPM with my timing light, then bring it in closer to get some engine sound. I then walk around to the exhaust to capture that as well.

View Advert 4x reproduction Nissan Fairlady Z432-R ‘works’ wheels in aluminum 14x7J ET-16 PCD 4x114.3 CB 73.1 Weight 6.82kgs Color – bronze/anthracite No lug nuts supplied but uses standard tapered ones. Fits Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX and other Datsuns Included is a choice of Z or RealWheel centre-hub stickers (please specify when ordering) and the exclusive leather key-ring Tires used were 195/70R14 Any questions, measurements required, please don’t hesitate to ask. Special Christmas price = us$800 plus shipping for the 4x shipped to you ! shipping (tracked and insured) : Europe = €100 North America = us$300 Middle East and Australia = us$350 Stay safe and have a great Christmas Advertiser Sean Dezart Date 09/21/2020 Price $800.00 Category Parts for Sale

Wow this came up so good after a bit of TLC! I was pleasantly surprised.

I think if we are really honest, a lot of aftermarket parts are questionable when safety comes into play. Take a look at some of the so called brake upgrades and suspension kits. The brake kits are often proven parts in a tested design, but not when several parts out of different designs are combined to make an "upgrade kit". I think copying someone elses design would raise more ethical questions than strength of design.

subject matter experts

Not yet but planned : 15x7 ET0

Paint is modern base and clear coat from PPG, 918 Orange

The cam lobes are the part that usually gets damaged after a rebuild, on these engines for sure, and others. Usually it's recommended to let it sit at about 1500-2000 RPM for 20 minutes to let the lobes and pads wear in with good lubrication. You guys compressed 20 minutes at 1500-2000 down to about three at 3000-4000 it looks like but it's probably fine. p.s. it does sound good though... p.s. #2 it's not going to rust over a week with just water in it. Actually, if you fill it with water you might find some leaks by next weekend. It's not the water that causes rust it's the oxygen in the air. So, filled with water would be no big deal unless you get a freeze in Sherman Oaks. https://www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Camshaft-Break-In-Proced-Rev4-12-07.pdf

Mercedes Sl300 Engine

Welcome to the forum, well you should keep the original engine/4spd regardless of what you do. You or the next owner may decide to go back to bone stock and you can't do that without the numbers matching engine. The 280ZXT is a potent engine and the 5th gear is much nicer for Hwy driving but it might be worth your while to get the car running with the 2.4L engine and see how that feels to you. It 's a fairly high revving engine and lots of fun to wind it up and with the car being so light it is a well matched package.

I like the speed bleeders too. From what I remember do the fronts then driver's side rear and finish with passenger's rear. That's where you definitely want a speed bleeder.

I don't believe Nissan has any inline 6 in their inventory (I may be wrong). They're not going to build one for a single low-selling model, and they've used a V6 for years. Any souls to be lost have disappeared long since.... That's why Toyota partnered with BMW on the Supra - they had no inline 6 and BMW had one of the world's best. If you want an inline-6, better be ready for a BMW engine in your Z.