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wait till I do the Yukon ride, plan is central florida to Alaska..non stop but for sleep. I do my site seeing while driving. I have a park I drive to at least 2 times a week that is about 70 miles round trip. really racking up miles on it and loving it.

Yet another round of wildfires in California, Oregon, and Washington. I am seeing a lot of smoke in the greater Seattle/Puget Sound area, which is a nuisance to work in, but some folks are losing their homes and lives. I hope those here in the path of the fires are safe.

You’re doing it right Dave....driving it. Who wants a hangar queen.. I’ll get mine there someday. Life has been extremely busy. Finally moved in the new place and we have stuff everywhere. I hear you with the AC, not sure how people drove without it back in the day. My car has stock AC but I’m 100% sure it doesn’t work. It’s on the list of items to tackle. Stock engines typically run better and are more reliable. You see these crazy mods people do and their engine sounds like crap. The only mods I’ll have are a slightly shaved head .020, headers and strongly consider SU carb conversion. Just bought a set of SUs with intakes and all the extras for $200 on CL Something about a carbureted engine. I know the FI is pretty good but wanted to maybe change my gameplan. Had planned on keep FI, but I love the sound and simplicity of carbs. HDAtom, the folks on this forum really know these cars and most have seen all types of mods and such. I like DaveWMs approach before you go crazy trying to do too much. The only reason I went for the full rebuild was that my car was in storage while my house was being built and it was something to do while I waited. You have to be careful of mission creep ( a term we used in the military to describe how you can be easily driven from your original goal). Like I said, I’d clean it up, do the compression check, if good maybe pull the head clean it up and have it rebuilt . Also consider knocking out some easy stuff, like replacing the water pump, and like ZedHead said check your timing chain markings to see where you are. It might be old and stretched and better to replace when it’s out of the car vs doing it installed. Then put it in the car and get it running. Make sure you get your tank cleaned up so your pushing fresh clean fuel too. Good Luck and keep us posted. You forgot pics of the car. It’s like porn to people on this forum. Everyone wants to see what you got so post some pics when you have a chance.

Yeah I'm in Seattle as well. The smoke has moved up here since the winds changed in the last few days. We had an West blowing wind early in the week and now it's blowing North/NorthEast. So all of that smoke has moved in from Oregon. I'm inside with the AC blowing and double filters on our furnace. I put one of these on the front of our regular filter: https://www.homedepot.com/p/True-Blue-24-in-x-36-in-x-1-in-Budget-FRP-2-Washable-Filter-HD0124361/202195941 You can also grab one of these as well to control the odors: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Web-20-in-x-25-in-x-1-in-Absorber-Odor-Control-FPR-5-Air-Filter-WABSORBFPR/100011568 It's not healthy to be outside, so, please take care of yourselves.

What? It wasn't obvious? Kidding aside, glad to help. Yeah, they took stuff out of the manuals over the years, and sometimes they added stuff. But it seems more removal of detail than added. (And I didn't look at the 78 manual (I stopped at 77), but you better believe I will now!!)) Hahaha!! Edit - It's not in the 78 manual. No surprise there.

Hate to be the bearer of the correct data but 500,000 total under some sort of notice to evacuate or to prepare for evacuation is not the same as 500,000 have evacuated their homes. We live 75 miles from the fire and are on Level 1 evacuation notice but no threat from the fire. Please don't sensationalise the real situation in such a dire time. More than 40,000 Oregonians have already been evacuated, and about 500,000 are in zones that may be evacuated as the fires continue to grow.

This can be a mixed blessing. Sometimes cooling welds can cause shrinkage and warping of panels. I use to do that but I have gotten to where I move around on the car. I come back when the welds are cool enough to touch

If you spray with compressed air, you can cool down tacks quickly and make a lot faster progress - FWIW (for what it's worth).

Damn, that's sad on top of sad.

Portland. We're scrambling around here. As of this morning, more than 500,000 have evacuated their homes in Oregon. That's 1/10th of the population and most of those are on the west side of the state. Several small towns have burned to the ground and now the fires are heading towards larger towns. Molalla and Oregon City have been evacuated. One half mile visibility due to smoke yesterday. About the same today. The smoke is so dense you can look at the sun at noon without squinting. It's just a red dot in a dirty orange sky. The smoke goes up to around 10,000' and prevents fire fighting air drops from being used and firefighters on the ground from finding the fires. Rescue vehicles can't get to some areas. Yesterday they pulled ALL the firefighters back in to regroup and attack again. As of this morning none of the fires around Portland are contained. Parking lots are full of RVs and tents here in town. Hotels, Motels are full and we still have Covid-19 to deal with. We could use your prayers folks.

Hey I bet I can save you $8k, the suspension might look like it is shot and certainly the original rubber bushings are but you may be very surprised how well new rubber bushings make the car feel. There are more than a few guys here that have gone the poly urethane bushings route then turned around and replaced that with fresh OEM rubber. If the car is a dedicated track car that's one thing, if you're doing a mixture of town and country driving then the harshness of the poly can get old really fast. TTT's stuff is sexy for sure but all new rubber bushings and mounts is only going to set you back about $500, however, poly mounts for the steering rack really are a must. Just my opinion.

Here is a link I just posted on Hybridz for somebody doing the same thing. Do you have the pedal box? Not sure that swapping just pedals will work. The easiest thing to do might be to find an old junked 4 speed 240Z and buy the whole car, then find an old junked 5 speed 280ZX and buy the whole car. Kind of kidding, but that's how I bought my first 5 speed transmission, except it was from an old 5 speed 280Z. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-clutch-pedal