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CO, you don't need to weld the perch and hope that you have picked the right height, you can mount the perches on split collars and raise and lower them until you're satisfied they are perfect and then weld them. In fact the split collars clamp with such force that you could tack the perch to one side of the collar and leave it at that.

Consider a Exedy 240mm turbo clutch kit, and appropriate flywheel. Have the flywheel lightened to compensate for the heavier clutch parts. Should handle your power well.

LIke a bolt of lightning from a distant cloud! Zedyone is here! I will go take a few shots of what I did and get back to this thread. I have been running the Harada for years... I love the fact that it uses the stock linkage. I shall get back to this thread today!!! HUZZAH

Transmission difference is irrelevant as the speedometer pinion is taken off the output shaft in every instance. Because of that the only variables are tire circumference and differential ratio. Nissan builds speedometer pinion gears with different tooth numbers to use with different differential gear ratios (because they are assuming you stick close to the stock tire size). I'm dyslexic when it comes to which gear count to use - I don't know if you should go "up a tooth" or "down a tooth" - but some here will know as they're lots smarter than I am. There are many discussions on speedometer pinion gears you can also refer to. IIRC the the 3.54 differential uses a black pinion gear - that would be stock in a manual trans 280Z.

Gas in the early 70's was not that bad tasting, at least as I remember it. Once they started putting all the nasty anti smog crap in it no way would I put it into my mouth.

Thanks for you input. Question was mainly about this brand of clutch as it was cheap and had a low shipping cost. Living in Sweden is not great when it comes to parts for these cars. Almost nothing exist here, you can find stuff in Europe sometimes but more often you have to aim for the US or japan. But then there’s outrageous shipping costs and import fees if you order from companies like for an example the zstore (cam kit= shipping $240, instead i had it sent to a friend in Cali for $19 and then he sent it to Sweden for $80, same with a rear wing $180 shipping and then there’s import fees on those combined prices) So sadly a thing like a clutch gets quite expensive if you go for a good brand and don’t have a friend to help out. I can’t remember what’s in there now but I think ill just take it apart when its time for storage (in about 2 months) and see what i have. And then decided what i want, maybe go for a 240mm clutch/flywheel (if i don’t already have one) and get the flywheel a bit lighter while iam at it. Have a new cam and a skyline efi E88 head on the shelf so the hp rating will probably increase some day?

If you can find a kit that comes with the throwout sleeve it might help avoid headaches afterward. Looks like some of the kits do, some don't. The high-performance kits seem to comes with all of the parts and there's some fancy looking discs. And don't forget the 225 vs 240 mm. If you have 220 HP then who knows what flywheel and clutch that you're using. You probably do. I assume your question was really just about this new brand name on the scene, Clutch Max. You might even want to get a new flywheel, you can still get the 240 mm flywheels. 225 is hard to find. Here's 1976's offerings, just for viewing pleasure. I bought a Perfection Zoom clutch from OReilly auto and didn't like it. It chattered when it got hot. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,transmission-manual,flywheel,5348

Thanks for the input, always appreciate advices. Will probably not change the clutch myself so will forward this to the person that will do this.

About 1/4th down you'll see it here. Hopefully it'll help, did me. https://datsunzgarage.us/engine/

a few other thought, you may want to look to pull the oil fill cap off while running, idle up to see how much oil is being slung around the camshaft if you have concerns about something plugged up. If you have a spray bar its prob a good idea to check it for flow, I removed mine, spray clean with brakecleen, reinstalled with new gaskets, verified oil flow by removing valve cover and cranking the engine ign off, after several seconds at crank speed you should see oil dribbling out of all the hole in the spray bar at about the same rate. I suppose if you have a internal lubed cam shaft the same test could be done, just to confirm all is well. I suppose if all was not well you would see it in cam lobe wear.

something odd with high coolant temps and high oil pressure, generally speaking those have an inverse relationship. (cold engine high oil pressure, hot engine low oil pressure for the same RPM) Middle gauge reading on oil at idle on startup is pretty normal but not once the engine warms up. also what is the idle rpm, 800 to 1000 has a notable effect on oil pressure. typical oil pressure at idle with fully warmed up engine would be more like 15-20 psi (gauge indication about 1/8-1/4). The oil pressure gauge is not well known to be accurate, so any pressure is prob ok. you can get large changes in oil pressure just by changing the sending unit and or cleaning and tightening the connection to it.

I'd also verify the coolant temperature with a thermometer to find out if the gauge is wrong.

It sounds like you might need some advice from @Mike W or @Zedyone_kenobi

Oh, SO many detailed threads, but if you haven't changed the engine position at all, you should just be able to stick it back on and bolt it down.

But isn't the Z the most excellent automobile from which to siphon gas? There's hardly another that gives you such quick and trouble-free access! (As a side note - I have to emissions check my 260Z every year here in the Phoenix area. The twits at the emissions station have NO WAY to check my gas cap. I love seeing them take it off, scratch their heads, shrug their shoulders, put it back on, and PASS the gas cap because they can't test it! You have to take joy in life where you can find it...)

1) "Difficult first start of the day" is not enough fuel. Misadjusted choke cables are often the reason. Have you checked the float levels. They are the primary mixture adjustments.

Exedy has yet to disappoint. Definitely my goto.

I've been happy with Exedys from amazon.com. Have them in my two Zs. $100 back a few years ago. 6009 is the number I remember.