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So we sold mommas blue 350z a year or so ago when she got a company car. Yesterday we made a trade. I had this 2004 6.0 turbo diesel Lariat 2006 350z plum, automatic She looks really crushed, doesn't she???

You sir or madam Zed Head, you’ve live up to your name. I’ve switch the calipers around so that the bleed screws upward. It works like a charm. I’ve struggle for couple of days and you made it seem so simple. Much much appreciated regards

There was a LOT of cross talk about original engines not being reinstalled in the Z Store cars and that a lot of the cars didn't, therefore, have engine #s that matched the numbers on the engine compartment ID plates. When talking about those cars it's important to remember that there were, in reality, 3 iterations. The first batch reused a lot of interior soft trim as Distinctive Industries were not on board the program yet, neither were the Banzai Motorworks reproduction ID plates. Both companies were onboard for the second batch which allowed any convenient engine # to appear on the engine compartment ID plate as they left Banzai without #s. The third batch benefited from all of the DI soft trim and Banzai repro goodies. While I'll plead guilty to going through this # issue leaving out some detail I can say with convection that they bought 55 sets of everything putting, I feel, to rest the often quoted 200 unit target for the program. I also recall a conversation I had with one of the principals involved who told me that due to VERY POOR quality control many of the first batch of rebuilt engines had to revisit the re-builder causing delays, and some confusion, to that portion of the program. Finally I have to take my hat off to Pierre. He and his staff worked very hard to make the program work while under significant pressure and a tight budget.

In agreement with everyone else. I don't see any reason you couldn't retorque. I will, however, say that I would not a retorque to change anything. In theory, your inner races have been (and still are) clamped tightly against the distance piece between them. In order to change the end play, you would need to either move one of the outer races closer together (which you should not be able to do) or shorten the distance piece. In theory, of course. Who knows what will happen in real life when you put the black iron pipe and the breaker bar on it!

I inherited a 1972 Datsun 240Z from my father who passed away a few months ago. It was in his possession from...I´m not sure, at least 15 years or so and most of that time it has remained in the same spot (in a sort of garage/shed sitting next to a couple of other older cars) Due to the covid19 situation I have remained at home and haven´t been able to go to my father´s house and do a more complete inspection of the car now that I´ve decided to start working on it. I took some pictures but a need to take it out of where it´s now to clean and inspect it more thoroughly. I can´t tell how many miles it has but in general is in a very good shape, very complete (original engine, matching numbers, etc) and with very little rust from what I could see. I think it´ll make a nice project. I just have to make some decisions and I´d like to share its progress here where I see so many knowledgeable and helpful people sharing the love for such a beautiful piece of car art/technology.

So I did some ZCON prep today. When I replaced the fuel sending unit few years back, I put new terminals on the wires at the sending unit. It worked fine until recently when I lost the signal. I needed to rotate the tires, so with the car on the lift, I figured I would check out the sending unit. The terminals were loose. I used the type terminals found on the connectors used throughout the car, but they are a fraction of an inch too large for the sending unit terminals. I tried a female spade lug, and it fit snug on the sending unit, so I replaced the terminals again. My fuel gauge has a good signal, and my tires are rotated. Next up, I want to do another headlight experiment, and the car should be ready for the road trip.

It has a smallish slit on the top but I think a larger escape hole for the air would benefit the design. One could always drill an additional 1/16 hole with a hand mandril very gently into the white plastic cap on the top. I think Dave WM took one apart. Would it be safe to drill through the plastic cap? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

reminds me of the old joke Comedians get together every year for a convention. after years of telling and retelling the same old jokes they start numbering them for convivence. guy gets up on the stage... says into the microphone #26... a few giggles....#104....some more....then #62... uproar!!! a guy in the crowd says, "man that was a good one" guy next to him says yea, but what about the great timing....

city on the edge of tomorrow (oops forever)..like the use of vacuum tubes.. an accident with a mechanical rice picker.... CO and I spent WAY too much time in front of the idiot box.

Dr. Dave using stone knives and bearskins.

When I did mine earlier this year, I found it quite scary how much 240lbft is. However, once I solved my problem of the bearing grease seal not having quite gone home all the way, there was little difference with the fish scales between 200-240 and the “hot spots” zkars mentioned all disappeared. The fish scales went from 3.5kg at the lugs to 0.4kg (at 238lbft)! As far as I can see, the inner flange, bearing inner races, the shaft and the spacer in the middle become one piece when torqued up, so any play should would typically result from the bearings themselves. Although I’m with patcon, it seems a awfully small amount of play to be worrying about.

Here's a picture of the Mustang before I took the transmission out..

It might be that you put the front calipers on the wrong sides. That makes it impossible to get the air bubbles out. The bleed screw needs to be on the top. But, I think that the front calipers use the big reservoir. You didn't say what year car you have. I think that Nissan switched front and back reservoirs when they went to the 280Z. Not sure. Maybe you got a master cylinder for the wrong year car. Anyway, check those bleed screws on the calipers. Put them on the top.

All the problems I have seen in stub axles has been related to worn/spun/bent/ovaled bearing seats. And a few bent axles naturally and I guess a few snapped ones. As long as I can torque it properly and have the axle turn smoothly with some resistance, A micro amount of end play is far from a problem you need to worry about. IMHO When I torque and then the axle spins but has tight spots as you spin it, just disassembling, cleaning seats AGAIN, and re-assembly usually results in a nice consistent rotation. Dem bearing have to seat “just so”

I have to pyle on. The good part is from about 0:39. Gohmert Pyle. Sha-zaam...gaaaawwwllllyy.