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I tried it - twice. The first time was circa 1997 with a L28 at 9.83:1 CR and a street cam. The engine was fresh and the car ran like crap. It had low power, wouldn't idle and was simply a disaster. Since the engine was new and the EFI a bit untested, I removed the cam and related components and returned the engine to a stock cam. It ran great and I was able to enjoy the car. The performance cam sat on a shelf for a decade or so. My Z was running great and was well-sorted, so I figured that I would try again. I installed the same cam and related parts back into the engine and got the same result. I tried to tune it, but it didn't make enough vacuum to keep the L-Jet happy. I once again pulled the cam springs and rockers and went back to stock. I then installed that cam into my SU carbed L28 racecar and it runs like a dream. It was everything I had hoped for in my street car. Both engines are very similar other than the fuel systems. You can try it, but many have the same results as me. L-Jet simply doesn't like low vacuum. For reference, my cam is a Web Racing Grind 91 with .450 lift and 260 duration

NSFW. A common sense video. Where I found it - https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2020/apr/24/vic-dibitetto-coronavirus-rant-video-interview

I'm staying with the tried and true Quinine and Gin.

I've started huffing Lysol instead of metallic gold spray paint. Mow the yard in direct sunshine and huff some Lysol. Life is good!

Not ideas, fantasies. Probably one of the greatest fantasies that have ever been. Like everything else he has or hasn't done.

All true. He's as good as Lewis Black. Nice to hear someone state what's in my mind.

Turn signal reflectors with fresh faces. The box of turn signals came with some wiring harnesses. I'm familiar with the T-connector style but not the round one - 260Z?

Have you spun the engine with the valve cover off? See how far the cam moves the pump arm. You said that you can pump it by hand so the diaphragm must be okay. Take a picture of the pump on the engine. Maybe you're missing a part or have the wrong spacer or something.

Your welcome. Interestingly the fuel tank on my car originally did not have the extra fittings but when I replaced it in 1988 the only tanks available had them. It was installed by my local Nissan dealership. The mechanic back then closed the extra ports with fuel compatible rubber caps, one is even retained with an OEM wire type clamp, after 32 years the caps are still relatively soft and pliable with no cracks. Here are a couple of pics...

Here is an image of the fuel tank assembly for up to Aug/74 from the 1976 European parts book. It shows a tee on the filler neck. Looks very similar to what's on my 1970 non-emissions car, without a vapor recovery system. This parts book is available in our downloads section here:

It's a few years since the complete restoration but as far as I remember it was just one connection. No T.

This time some pic's of the Primer and guide coat.. With a bit of dust on it from sanding the dooropening. Without the sealer the joints are immaculate.. Here a close look at the Original left (driversdoor) hinge.. see how unworn it is? It's one of the things that were eye-catching. The last owners must have taken good care of it.. (the last owner was a ex nissan subdealer and the owner before that was from our Dutch "rijksdienst wegverkeer" a sort of chief technician that worked for the federal government taking care everything round MOT. I guess former owners were knowing what they were doing. Installed the "like new" rear tower covers also..

Right. Sorry. I got hung up on your alignment issue (see what I did there?) and incorrectly translated that to a potential altitude change as well. Thanks for the nudge back to reality. I'll go back and cross that out. I've messed with flat tops more than the round tops, and from what I've seen, the machining quality got better. The precision machined sealing surfaces on the flat tops are pretty good. The bead of silicone I used was on an early set of four screw round tops. I've not had to do that on the flats. So how did you determine the surfaces were off? Lay it on a flat-ish surface and you can actually see gaps? As for the whistle, I would suggest it's perfectly normal. I believe that's air rushing past your venture and you should learn to love it. I traveled to Zcon last year in a flat top powered 260 with small aftermarket air filters, and when you punched it, that whistle was very pronounced. Sounded like a turbo spooling up. And the car felt like it too! Just think of it as your round top turbo!

Funny story Bruce, it’s hard to find a good part of town there. When the sun goes down it’s like the movie “I am Legend” I get it...I spend more time than I want in Memphis. It’s a shady place. I have a car there I bought when I started working from there. It’s parked in the company parking lot at the airport. It’s a 2002 Nissan Xterra. Its manual transmission and I searched for that for one reason other than later Nissan’s builds some of the worst automatic transmissions and that was theft. I read that only 18% of Americans can drive a manual and most are over 40 yrs old. That means at minimum about 4/5 criminals wanting to steal my car will walk past mine. Car theft is very high in Memphis. Memphis had 4,450 car thefts in a single year. Cliff, Bruce has both a kill switch and a steering wheel lock bar. He had a bad cam so they wouldn’t have gotten far for too long....hehe! Here’s my Memphis bomber. She’s been a good car. Has a persistent ABS and Airbag light that I’ve chosen to ignore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is probably what "opening" up and going back to work looks like. The places that never closed, the essential companies. Open, get infected, shut down, do it over again. https://komonews.com/news/local/tyson-foods-pasco-meatpacking-plant-suspends-production-amid-pandemic

Chickenman has done it I think , but he doesn’t get on here much anymore . Take the leap to programmable ECU - let the force be with you

I think that main problem is that a bigger cam is designed to flow more air at high RPM, which requires more fuel than the factory system is designed to provide. So you end up with the dilemma of tweaking your system, through the AFM spring or an adjustable FPR or bigger injectors, to provide the fuel the cam needs at high air flow, causing rich running at lower air flow rates, or leaving it tuned to run well at low air flow rates and go lean at the high end. Basically, there will be a range of throttle position and RPM where it will run like crap. But it might make more power.

Yeah, I gotta admit... It wasn't as classy, but it sure blended in. It's like my daily driver... I want it to be invisible. You remember that one shaky looking neighborhood when we ended up startling the guy in the brewery? Him, clearly startled - "Woah! Uhhh... Can I help you?" Us, being a tasting flight up already - "We we're looking for beer." Him (thankfully) amused - "Uhhh, OK. We got lots of that, but we don't sell it here." Hahaha!!! We could have easily ended up in a cell for that one! I think the only thing that saved us was your trustworthy face!

And that's how Bullies maintain power. No one speaks up and the charade continues until one person points out the King has no clothes. A few "fake news" reporters are beginning to stand up to the Pres. and remind him of his selective memory. Dangerous territory for them until they succeed in showing everyone what he really is or rather he ends up showing everyone his true self. The last thing a narcissist wants is for everyone to see the real person behind the mask. If and when that happens he will shut himself off from his previous contacts and surroundings and lick his wounds, still believing that people are just too stupid to understand how great he is.

All the same part number 240Z ~ 280ZX 11710-E3000

From what I saw, again, today in the grocery store, people in general do not understand aymptomatic transmission. So, it just takes a few asymptomatics to start a whole new outbreak. People keep using the word "open". Another failure of the message from the leaders. All people really want is a plan that they can understand. Trump's pseudo science doesn't help at all.

So yesterday was first run . Didn’t even bother to install the hood , bumper or even the mirrors . Hell- didn’t even wash off the dirt . All I can say is WOW - amazing power ! The grunt starts so early . Never got over 5k and only poked at WOT a coupe of times . Not used to breaking tires loose so easily . Only got 25 miles on it , but I was smiling after I got over initial anxiety . Today I look it over and check things so I can play tomorrow

The 3.54 and the wide ratio is the factory combination for the 75 to 78 280Z coupes. Here's one of many calculators out there if you want to see where you might end up. Tire size matters too. 5th gear would be 0.864 for the wide ratio. https://www.crawlpedia.com/rpm_gear_calculator.htm

Same. Mine has been on and off the road since 2013 with the shaved P90 @ 11:1 compression with no issues related to running California 91 pump gas.

Here you go, I don't care for round tube so much so this rectangle tube worked for me.

Please be advised that the new Float-Syncs have glass, not plastic site glasses. Be careful etching a groove as they may be prone to break along that line. I actually like the "O"ring idea. If they're thin and tight they should stay put.

Jim (zKars), I etched a slight groove around the Float-sync at 14 mm above each block with a mini tube cutter, works great!

This is a job for an nice tight o-ring and/or a sharpie to mark that 14mm line on the tubes. Maybe some thin pin stripe tape? What the heck won’t wash off with gas though? Oring is fine, but it can move.... Set it then crazy glue it? Use a square cross section o-ring? Maybe turn a shallow groove in the tube? Just enough to leave a mark.

Hey, I wanted to make a comment to the collective members of this forum. Sitting here trapped in my hotel in Panama....reading lots of post and questions from here and other Z forums I see a trend. The people that frequent this place tend to be very interested in helping others get these cars back where they belong....on the road to be enjoyed. Some other Z forums out there have some really harsh, condescending, self-serving members that quite frankly push people away. They don’t want to be bothered by people’s questions and admonish them for not spending hours researching a topic. It’s strikingly different in the people here. I honestly probably would have not taken on this endeavor if it hadn’t been the great people on here. The help I’ve gotten here can’t be more appreciated. I hope that I can pay it forward. I will continue to be a junkyard rat because its fun to do when I layover in various cities. A bad day in the yard is better than a good day at work. I will continue to help you all that can’t find parts you need. I’ll alway just charge you what it cost me to buy and deliver the part. My labor and risking life and limb in snake infested tall grass is free. Some if you have built up a nice beer fund. Not sure I’ll be able to afford ZCON with all this beer I’m in debt for. Thanks again [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk