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Two Mom's wonder why they can't be by the pool looking good. Then the obvious.

hmmm, you have gone this far, if it was me I would get the pickup that is designed for the pan being used if its different. Not saying it would not be fine, but why bother if you can get the right part.

Consider it done. I'll put a set aside for you.

Things are moving along, the Silvermine brake kit is in, it certainly isn't a "couple of hour" job as stated on the site. That's because most of the fitment problems have been figured out but not all of them, it took me the better part of 2 days to install. First the bad, there is no written instructions, some random photos that aren't very specific of the steps required and a video where every time the instructor runs into a problem that part is edited out. If the adapter plates were stamped left/right, inward/outward that would have save me many hours but the worst problem occurs when you are on your back under the car fitting the new parking brake cable into place. The stock collar on the car that holds the cable in place has a ID of .475", the matching insert on the new cable is .500" so with the Diff and Diff mount in the way you have to try and get a large chisel or screw driver up there try and open that collar up enough for the cable insert to slide in. ? That's a problem that is so simple to remedy while the cable is being made. And one more, the two 90 degree elbow fittings for the flex hose runs the hose too close to the tire that it rubs so I had to buy two 45 degree elbows from Wilwood finish the install. This could be a great kit if those few problems were sorted before it went out the door, but Wilwood puts out an awesome product, I can't wait to see how this kit effects the stopping distance. I'm still fooling around with the fresh air intake and trying to make it work, I have sent it off to Ben to finish off the welds and make them pretty and the new radiator and Spal fan arrived so it is starting to look like an engine bay again.

Hello Guys! I think we are getting somewhere... This pic i got from oc carpets, they are the 2+2 carpets they sayd and.. i think thats the case.. Now i made a video of mine ( so you can see it all) some sugar and milk to keep the measuring lint on it's place hahaha… (if it's bad engish… f it!) 20200212_120210.mp4 I sended OC Carpets the video and i think they can only conclude they made a mistake… does not matter, only proves they are people to.. i'm excited what the answer is going to be! I would agree to send the 2 peaces back for the longer ones.. don't know what it costs but it was not my fault.. ican't help it that my former painter fu***-up and took so long, the warranty is gone after 2 years but i need the right set of carpets.. the ones i got are brand new but the wrong ones.. Oh let it please go right for ones! ( just kidding, but this aquire went wrong..)

Thanks Mark, I was going to put on a much larger air duct on it but decided I would go with stock 3.5" MAF to start with and that would get me on the road quickly, if I want more power after that I can always go with the CSL setup at a later time. I used the thinnest aluminum I could hoping to get some of the induction sound to come through, we'll see.

Here's a drawing of the part. It's a wedge bolt like the kind that holds the pedals on to an upper-end bicycle. Wedging the part #12 against the case and twisting the rod might loosen the bolt. But, since it's a wedge shape, it will be wedged in there pretty tight. Wedges are powerful things.

Removing that. Wedge bolt is a trick indeed. Best way is to drill a 21/64” (will explain in a minute) in the case to the left of the pin (in the picture) so that you insert a punch and drive it out. Use heat on the pin area to help break it free. You also have to support the outer end of the rod so when you hit the bolt with the punch, it doesn’t just flex the rod. Chunk of wood between rod and case will do it. Then tap that hole for 1/8NPT and plug it. Guess what size hole is needed for 1/8NPT tapping...

Here are a couple of old threads discussing early hoods, with pictures of the two early and later types.

Thanks everyone. I have commitment for about 5 sets. Any others interested in a group buy discount please let me know. all the best

Thanks. Actually, hadn’t pulled the trigger yet on a new set. I’d be happy to accept a donation and add it to my beer deficit I owe you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A 240Z grill has the lower three bars shorter at each end to allow for the bumper brackets. Does your grill look like this?

While not suspension, I have these reference pics of the manual transmission cross member mount. Can't imagine that the paint used for this would be different than the suspension, but I do not know for sure. Maybe useful to someone here (click for bigger image):

Thanks guys. I'll hit them with a little heat and try an impact driver. I haven't really put a lot of grunt into them yet because I was worried about fighting thread lock. Keep you posted! And in the meantime... Here's some catch-up pics. This was my experience popping that troublesome front expansion plug. I made this little adapter contraption for my slide hammer: Carefully drilled (making sure I did not drill too deep) and tapped a hole into the expansion plug to accept the adapter: Thread on the slide hammer and with a couple taps, out pops the plug: Don't know if it would work on all attempts, but so far, I'm batting 1000 at two for two.

Well, those of you looking for interesting updates are going to be disappointed. I have been working on the passenger door for a couple weeks. It is finally straight and true. Well at least the middle and top sections! The bottom edge is next. This truly is a glacial process...

Thanks for the previous advice guys. Made progress this week despite a few minor setbacks. I’ve installed the head, timing chain, timing chain cover and water pump. Here are pics from today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk