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Hi Blue , I am happy you use my pictures. Here are some for you , I want to explain again the difference , and interchangeability of the mechanism . Z432 ( triple carburetors) has only one cable for the choke system while L20/24 ( SU) have two cables . But you see the basement of the levers are made for both , just flip it over to accommodate Z432 or L20/24 . And some more , the earliest Z432 mechanism has a metal tube for the choke cable . Like SU type cable , Z432 has a lot of running parts change for this choke and throttle mechanism. Not only for the cable , levers were revised a several times . The earliest hand throttle lever has its pivot at the bottom of the basement while later type has the pivot in the middle.A Sliding nut guide which controls its tension is a unique for the earliest one. The earliest one has a longer slit on the top metal face plate so that the hand throttle lever can travel fully, longer . And amazingly, the small screw holes to secure the basement for the earliest one are used agin for the later hand throttle!! What a wonderful design of mechanism . Kats Sorry those pictures are not taken at one time , some of them are recently and some of them are old . I found the two pictures which showing Z432 and L20/24 in one shot made a mistake, the top metal face plates were put wrongly. The longer slit of the hand throttle should be put on the other . In this picture the L20/24 mechanism should have it as it is made as later type .

The first few times i used my early '71 240z I flattened the switch several times with my knees! Then the brake lights stayed out..(US type switch with the 9 contacts!) the switch was broken inside.. Now i'm still driving the car almost 20 years with a frozen switch in off position, some glue keeps it together hahaha… and it's handle is flat with the dash.. i have to put my right knee somewhere haha ?

I bought it.

Just a few updates while I'm waiting for the z to get back from paint. R200 refurbished with new seals and fresh paint. Painted hood hinges and a few misc. parts. Got my tank from gas tank exchange (local gas tank restore business)

Today there is a request for hazard switches in the classified forums which leads me to go to the stash and see what I have to help. Pawing through the group, I see plenty of differences. Of course this brings up more questions. We know about the change to the back lit, round pull knob style switch on the North American 240's in 73, and the shorter wires on the 72 switch (6 pin connector wires), but I was surprised by a couple of differences I didn't know about. The marking on the handles vary, and most surprisingly, as does the angle of the switch's bat style handle from one to the next in either position. All of these are the long lead variety, but there are at least three different marking styles. We likely discussed this before. I suspect the center is oldest, (one triangle), the right second oldest, and third, newest. All of the short lead switches I have share the markings of the switch on the left. All fancy and most clearly marked, must make things "better" don't we? But what surprised me the most was the difference in handle angles in the off and on positions, comparing across all three switches. The first pic has them all in the "ON" position, the second "OFF" Well the handles are simply bent you say from repeated use you'd likely say. I say NOT. Look at the thickness of the metal of the handle. It is both thick and oriented so that its rectangular cross section has the most bend resistant width in line with direction of motion. NO WAY you could bend that metal without doing damage to the switch mechanism. All switches click nicely into both on and off positions. Nothing wonky or loose inside. Let the speculation begin!

What do you mean "bend the arm" for testing. Do you mean simply move the arm up and down? My gauge responds similarly as it reads empty with just less than half tank remaining. To me, it will be an easy fix by actually bending the float arm down so the gauge thinks there is more fuel in the tank.

My 7/70 has the one on the left.

They certainly dated from well before 1979. I have an original that was given to me by a friend who bought it new in 1973. And then there's this:

Hi zKars , great great article!! I didn’t know the difference. Thank you so much!! This is what exactly I experienced in my blue 240Z , this car has a switch which I determine “ early one “by its the twin-triangle mark . And it could not accept the tool to turn the chrome nut because of its angle. I didn’t know why , but you showed us there is the one which can’t accept the tool . I tend to think the early one is always acceptable for the tool , later one is always not acceptable for the tool , but this theory is not true . My blue 240Z has got the switch from another car when it became out of service , so it could be way out of date of the car’s manufacture date (03/70) . On the other hand , my orange 12/71 240Z has the tool acceptable type switch which has a small triangle in a big triangle. This mark is later type I think . FYI , I show a comparison of a small box and a big box type . Japanese S30 uses the small box type . Maybe for euro too ? I am learning every day ! Kats

Good catch. My 5/70 also lacks these ribs. Added floor stiffness to better cope with 220-lb + North American occupants? Better strength for side impact crash testing? Doesn't look like it adds much to the seat mounts.

That's the one, the FSM that are free to view on NICO doesn't show it but I found some that do, weird. Thanks. I think I know where the air is going during compression, the wobbly valves guides combined with these deep pits on one side of both exhaust valves on the #3, it's the only culprit I can point to. Since I have to get the valve seats done I might as well smooth out all this rough flashing first before taking it to get the machining done, then I can convince myself it's making more power

It’s an Audi TTRS. 394 Bhp.

For the purpose of dating, my 12/70 car has the twin-triangle version of the switch handle.

There is a special service tool for the chrome mounting nut. See the two holes in the face? The tool in the bottom left corner is a knurled tube with two pins on the end. It fits over the handle and turns the chrome face nut.

Dimensional placements can be taken from the FSM, Section BF-1, Figure #BF-3, 'Standard Body Dimensions'. The version shown below comes from the 1970 FSM...

We have created a generation of kids that are addicted to social media, have no real skills and expect everything to be both easy and free. We will pay as a society for this. My kids don’t have phones but all their friends do. I don’t know who said this but I like it. “Hard times create strong men. Strong men create good times. Good times create weak men. And, weak men create hard times.” We are creating weak men in my opinion. When I was a kid both my Grandfather and Father could fix and build anything and worked their tails off to provide for their families. People today are generally helpless, lazy and at the same time arrogant. Sorry for the rant! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk