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I'll be the first to say it: I would SERIOUSLY reconsider restoring this car. I'm 1/2 way thru restoring a '72 240 myself, including replacing floor pans, rockers, dog legs, hatch area, spare tire area. & front fenders. I'm doing all the work myself and am very familiar with with you're up against. Based on your pics, your car is in much worse shape than mine was when I started. This is will be very labor intensive work and it will cost well over $8K to have someone do a decent job. My advice: Cut your losses. Find a decent, relatively rust-free project car for ~ $5K and restart from there. Sorry to be the one to tell you this. Good luck! Jughead

I could probably do that. My car is getting paint, engine rebuild and will not need till next fall.

Frankie for short! I figure my 260 is made up of parts from 240 and 280. Offer always stands. I would like to make it to Nashville Z since it is where I lived most of my life. Jim

YOUSE GUYS ARE KILLIN ME WITH KINDNESS HERE! Thanks for the thought Philip,and the possible offer, Mr. Frankenstein. (is that steen ? or stine ?---) I doubt that a single point deduction of the valve cover finish will make or break my chances at Nashville. Each year it is usually my own fault due to some neglected bits of dirt or overlooked insect carcasses that cumulatively do the damage and throw the spanner in the works. It's OK. I'll keep trying.

The rust on the bottom of the A pillar is really what has me concerned. Also, with that hole below the quarter window letting water in, I imagine the inside has more issues than it would typically. I don't think this chassis is worth saving if you're going to pay someone else to do the work. However, it could be a good chassis to learn to work on, if you are inclined to do so, and if successful, you'll have a car that you can say you built yourself at the end of it all.

I offered to pick up the fees and got no pushback from the seller at all about using PayPal, so the order's placed and the waiting begins.

Do us all a big favour and loan it to Zup for 2020 ZCON!

Thread bump for the 24th October 2019 50th Anniversary. A couple more images from the 1969 Tokyo show stand:

View Advert 240Z AM Signal Seeking Radio Hitachi TM-1081ZA AM Signal Seeking Radio originally for a 1970-71 Datsun 240Z (will fit ’72-73 models). This unit is in excellent working and cosmetic condition, it has been refurbished internally with: - new power supply - new lamps - small electronic elements replaced as needed - antenna switch disassembled and serviced All wiring and connectors are OE and in perfect condition, including the original fuse holder and spare fuse. The faceplate is in virtually new condition - no scratches or cracks, chrome accents are perfect. The OE backing plate is included and undamaged. The black knobs are excellent and the chrome adjustment rings are perfect. The scanning process works smoothly in both directions, auto-reversing as expected. The volume and tone controls are static-free. The antenna switch operates smoothly and without resistance. The mounting and ground screws are in place. Simply put: EVERYTHING WORKS! The price is $1,400 USD, payment via PayPal. The price includes standard USPS domestic shipping with insurance. International shipping is available at actual cost but will require the use of UPS or FED-EX to be able to provide insurance. PM me if interested, thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 10/23/2019 Price $1,400.00 Category Parts for Sale

Mine has a mind of it's own...

I agree with the crowd’s sentiment. You live in California? The Mecca for rust free Zs? I found mine in Mississippi (previous CA car). It was 3k (1977). Totally rust free. There might be some rust I haven’t see yet but all the typically areas are clean. So...with that said get one and either sell this 78 or use it as a parts car. I bet you can find a rust free 280 out there for 5-7k all day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think this car is worth saving, but it needs a realistic budget. I am over $30,000 USD invested in my resto and I am doing all the labour myself.... so budget realistically. This will be a $50,000 plus restoration if you are planning on paying someone else to do even some of the work.

Progress is slow, but should be starting next week, at least progressed to engine stand ?

The pins tested out correct as per the diagram. I jumpered the solenoid to the battery and the starter spun like a champ. I connected a multimeter to the wire that connects to the small connector on the solenoid and it showed no power when I turned the key. I'm assuming that the two red leads don't need to be connected for the starter to start because I didn't bother since they only works the steering lock. My next step, I assume, is to see if power is going to the ignition switch. I have a wiring diagram so I'll start tracing.

I don't think you're being overly cautious. Too many unscrupulous overseas businesses. Once you do a wire transfer, your money is gone, even if you never get your order. Just offer to pay the PayPal fees. That way you at least have some recourse if they rip you off. If your PayPal account is tied to your credit card, you have an additional layer of protection. If the vendor is unwilling to accept PayPal, I'd tell them "no thanks " and look elsewhere Just my $.02

Back in the hole. Worked on getting my cable throttle hooked up. Pretty stoked the way it came out , pretty much invisible! So glad to be done with the linkage . I went all the way to the pedal too. Feels silky smooth. Now I can completely shave the intake if I want .

The Nissan stand area at the '69 Tokyo show was quite extensive. Here are some images of other Nissan product on display:

Well, that’s the end of the small one pint of colour I had. Managed to get the front end, both fenders and the underside of the cowl done though. I will purchase a gallon now and have it packed in pints for use as I go forward. The finish outside coat will definitely be one mix to ensure the most consistent coverage. The edges are less of an issue even though the mixing system is super accurate.

That's pretty extensive. What is your budget? There is a shop not too far from you that does good work but be prepared for what the metal work and paint could cost! @motorman7

Looks like you're all sorted but here are some pictures as well.

FYI It looks like there was also a 432-R at the Tokyo International Motor Show: The Blue 240z seems to have been replaced at some point by the 432R. A few other items were also added to the display.

They sure look beauties

Hi Alan: If the picture you are talking about is the one the Chris Posted - Yes, that was taken at the New York International Auto Show. The man standing beside Mr. Goertz is Bob Sharp. Mr. Kawazoe let Mr. Goertz put the Goertz Logo on one side of the car. At the time, Sharp and Kawazoe were convinced that Goertz was behind the design. After all these years and research - I believe that Mr. Goertz did believe that the Datsun 240Z was the direct evolution of his work. Given his massive ego, I don't see how he could have believed otherwise. Given the Nissan Logo on the hood, of the final evolution at Yamaha's Design Center, of what Goertz claimed was his work - I can at least see the basis for Mr. Goertz belief. I hasten to add for everyone - the final Goertz/Yamaha Prototype stayed at Yamaha, as Nissan had only contracted for Yamaha to build one working prototype - which was delivered to Nissan after the Joint Project was cancelled. That first iteration of the Nissan 2000GT, looked quite different. I reversed the image of the HLS30 in the picture below - to put it in the same orientation as the Yamaha prototype. FWIW, Carl B.