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Jughead

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Everything posted by Jughead

  1. @Strat067: I trial fit my Tabco Rocker panel this weekend and I seem to have the same issue. Crap. What did you end up doing on your car? Did you modify the Tabco panel, or use bondo, or both? If you modified the Tabco panel, where did you cut where did you add metal? I need a plan and I'm fresh out of ideas! Somehow the "A" edge (see drawing below) needs to extend outward another ~ 5/16". (Thanks in advance.) For the record: I bought my panel directly from Tabco in the fall of 2018. They assured me on the phone that they’d “...been selling them for many years and never had any issues…” Yeah, Right.
  2. I posted asking this exact question about 9 month ago. It's doable, but it takes patience and practice. Once you figure it out, you'll wonder what the fuss was all about. I still put a thin sheet of flexible plastic against the wall. I use the white plastic wall covering at Lowes - comes in 4' X 8' sheets. It's super handing stuff.
  3. Ahh Hah! Thanks! Does anybody need 'em?
  4. Can anyone help me identify these body panels? See pics. They came with my Z, which included several other Z panels. I haven't been able ot figure out where they go. Are they even from a Z?!? I'd hate to just scrap them if someone can use them... Thanks much!
  5. I once had a late '90s Maxima 4 door sports Car.  Black.  Black Leather.  Car phone. Bad arse.

  6. I went to WESCO and got their "Mexican Orange". Matches great!
  7. Anybody else have info? (Thnx Patcon)
  8. It looks like (A) is flat except on the left side. Is that true? Or i it shaped more like (B)?
  9. @Patcon: See below - Comparing the photo you posted on Nov 22 to another one I've found, . Yours on the left (A) looks flatter than (B) on the right. Is that an illusion? Trying to understand the shape before I start fabricating... Thanks!! Jughead
  10. VIN: S30-67902 '72 as of this posting: Undergoing restoration in Seattle, WA (USA)
  11. Makes sense. Have you ever run into anyone making them?
  12. I wonder if it would be ok to use a flat piece of metal. Thoughts? Also, what “dimples” are you referring to? Do you mean the spotweld dimples? Nice car btw.
  13. Wow! Thanks for the great & speedy response! I LOVE this forum!! The image I needed is below. @Diseazd: See the 1st pic that I copied from you below. Is that the original factory build? (It looks to be.) Also, I notice that there's a hole in the original outer rocker - right over the seat belt mount nut. Is the hole stock too? @240260280: Any chance you still have the diagram/measurements that you used to make the panel indicated by the blue arrow? (2nd pic below.) If so, I'd be much obliged if you would pass it along. I'll bet there a ton of Z freaks who would benefit from it! Thanks again guys - really helpful, Jughead
  14. Fellow Zedheads, I'm repairing my doglegs and want to fabricate the INNER dog leg as close to original as possible. I can't find an image of a non-rusted inner dogleg. (There are plenty of pics of rusted ones!). Can anyone help? I've attached pics of mine for reference. The piece I'm referring to is in front - with the jagged, rusty bottom. Thanks!! jughead
  15. That explains he rust in my front fenders. I wonder where the Datsun designers thought the water would go...?
  16. Thanks Elliott000 - Keep up the good work and thanks for the inspiration
  17. Hey Elliott000: What did you end up using for the piece between the outter dogleg and the seatbelt screw hole? That's where I am now Andre I'm considering. My options. See pics. Anybody have a best practice here? Thanks!!
  18. The only thing between the panels is the adhesive. Both metal surfaces have to be clean and bright. The top of the replacement slam panel has auto body primer on it. JH
  19. BTW: I used a brake to get the lip for the weather seal, so it's all one piece. Hope this helps... Jughead
  20. Sorry - The pics and the text got jumbled up a bit. BTW: Here's where I am with the Spare Tire well. The donor well is ready to go in this weekend. I'm going to use the 3M Adhesive here too,
  21. Hey Unicorn Z, I refabricated the under-structure with a MIG welder and 20 gauge steel. Then I used 3M body adhesive (product # 08115) to attach the top slam panel which I bought from Tabco. I used the 3M product because: 1) It is stronger (read the research); 2) It prevents future rust (why let it rust again!?!); 3) It looks much better due to not having to drill holes; 4) It's easier. Two buddies and I glued i on in ~ 30 minutes. I used an electric spot welder that I bought t Harbor Freight to attached the panel to the supports in the middle - near the license plate area. It worked out very sell. Here are some pics... They my be worth 1,000 words... Lemme know your thoughts or if you have questions. Now on to the spare tire well...:) Jughead
  22. (Reviving this topic) I'm about to install a rear hatch replacement panel on my '72 and have been asking myself how to attach it. As I see it, the options are 1) Perform plug (i.e. "Rosetta") welds 2) Using a portable spot welder 3) using 3M Body Panel Adhesive. Since the last comment eight years ago, are there any more current points of view on this topic? What am I missing? (I'm leaning toward either 2 or 3 as I think the end result will be a lot less work and more likely top produce a good looking result.)
  23. (Thanks grannyknot.) Does anyone produce part number 4 in the attached diagram?
  24. GNOSEZ: Can you provide me more info regarding rails and other repair panels you offer?
  25. Does anyone have any recommendations of which vendor(s) to use for repair panels? Tabco, etc? I know I need the outer rockers and dog legs on both sides. Anyone have any recommendations or experiences (good or bad?) I did review the entire Disepyon thread and got a lot out of it. Very impressive and helpful. I reached out to Disepyon, but I'm not sure if he's still active. I'll inform the thread if he is. Thanks to all who've already replied - much appreciated! PS - the photos are not my car (thanks god!).
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